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Mojave Lever Crew - Roll Call!
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My 1936 has the exact same inscription on the tang. The serial number starts with a "B" (B4737). I notice yours only has numbers, no letters. I forget whether mine is earlier or later. I have the Marlin book, I'll look into it and see if they have anything on serial numbers.
DanComment
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Well done, a great addition to any lever action collection.



Comment
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It looks to be in very good shape.
Looking forward to a range reportIt takes a lot of balls to play golf the way I do.
Happiness is a warm gun.
MLC, First 3Comment
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Okay, here is what I learned from my "Marlin Firearms" book by Lt. Col. William S. Brody:
"Production of the Model 1936 rifle was started in late 1936 for the 1937 market. The 1936 model designation was used into 1937 when it was changed to Model 36."
There were two variations of the Model 1936. The first had a long top tang and flat hammer spring, like the Model 93, and no prefix to the serial number stamped on the lower tang, whereas the second variation had a short top tang, a coil type hammer spring and a B prefix to the serial number, also marked on the lower tang."
So, it appears that the Model 1936 was only made during 1936 and early 1937 when it was changed to the Model 36.
Yours is of the first variation and mine is of the second.
How cool is that?
DanComment
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Thank you! I’m super excited about this one. It’s my first used lever and I feel I did well.
Will definitely report back after I run some rounds through her. I’ve get a few hundred pieces of 30-30 brass but no dies, components or loaded ammo. I’ll have to see if I can pick up a couple boxes local.
That’s awesome! Before I saw this post I was going to say I thought the lack of a prefix made it older, which appears correct.Okay, here is what I learned from my "Marlin Firearms" book by Lt. Col. William S. Brody:
"Production of the Model 1936 rifle was started in late 1936 for the 1937 market. The 1936 model designation was used into 1937 when it was changed to Model 36."
There were two variations of the Model 1936. The first had a long top tang and flat hammer spring, like the Model 93, and no prefix to the serial number stamped on the lower tang, whereas the second variation had a short top tang, a coil type hammer spring and a B prefix to the serial number, also marked on the lower tang."
So, it appears that the Model 1936 was only made during 1936 and early 1937 when it was changed to the Model 36.
Yours is of the first variation and mine is of the second.
How cool is that?
Dan
What is this Marlin book? I think I’m going to have to pick one up!
EDIT: Duh, it’s the one by William S. Brophy!Last edited by Kerplow; 10-30-2021, 4:50 PM.Originally posted by MelvinoelGreat**My friend, your Chargers sure are looking good tonight. They are only losing by 14 at the half, not to bad my friend.Comment
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It takes a lot of balls to play golf the way I do.
Happiness is a warm gun.
MLC, First 3Comment
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How did you like them?FWIW, Tom and I split a box of these (link below) a couple years ago. I loaded a few but Tom (Pennstater) will have more feed back on them.
https://missouribullet.com/details.p...y=36&keywords=
It seems crazy how long they are but when you think about a 168gr FMJ they seem about right.
I’ve been thinking about California hunting rounds so I can only imagine how stupid long a lead free bullet of the same weight would be.Last edited by Kerplow; 10-30-2021, 7:05 PM.Originally posted by MelvinoelGreat**My friend, your Chargers sure are looking good tonight. They are only losing by 14 at the half, not to bad my friend.Comment
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I’ve been thinking about California hunting rounds so I can only imagine how stupid long a lead free bullet of the same weight would be.
If a pure copper projectile, like BARNES, they never are the same weight as they'd be too long for not only cartridge AOL but perhaps barrel twist.
But BARNES don't need to be quite the same weight since they perform so well IN target, retaining well over 95% of their weight.
They're better balanced due to their copper's homogenous characteristics and when spun they fly almost absolutely true.
They're so good that folks who live where they can hunt using lead prefer an all-copper bullet. Only caveat is cost, and that one should have no gilded metal (jacketed bullet's copper) fouling in the bore.
Much of this good news came to light here on calguns from three different users, some from TheHighRoad's handloading sub..
"Get a proper holster, and go hot. The End." - SplitHoof
NRA Lifetime | Avatar courtesy Elon Musk's Twitter User SomthingWickedComment
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If a pure copper projectile, like BARNES, they never are the same weight as they'd be too long for not only cartridge AOL but perhaps barrel twist.
But BARNES don't need to be quite the same weight since they perform so well IN target, retaining well over 95% of their weight.
They're better balanced due to their copper's homogenous characteristics and when spun they fly almost absolutely true.
They're so good that folks who live where they can hunt using lead prefer an all-copper bullet. Only caveat is cost, and that one should have no gilded metal (jacketed bullet's copper) fouling in the bore.
Much of this good news came to light here on calguns from three different users, some from TheHighRoad's handloading sub.Originally posted by MelvinoelGreat**My friend, your Chargers sure are looking good tonight. They are only losing by 14 at the half, not to bad my friend.Comment
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I have shot many Barnes bullets, as well as Nosler E-tips/Lead Free Ballistic Tips and Hornady GMX. Not all are pure copper - some are solid gilding metal.
I have some 150 gr Barnes bullets for my .30-30 but have not loaded them yet. I have also used the Barnes Varmint Grenades...they are pretty explosive on coyotes but work well on smaller varmints - nothing you plan to eat, however.
The TSX and TTSX work very well and in my experience, are the most accurate of the lot out of my guns in .204, .223. .22-250, .243, .270, .30-06 and .300 Win Mag. The old 225 gr Barnes X bullet, pre-TSX, shot very well out of a Tikka .338 Win Mag.
I guess I will have to dig out the Barnes bullets for my .30-30 and give them a try. I initially bought them to shoot out of a Savage 340 bolt action .30-30 that was very accurate but I passed that rifle along to a grandson in WA.Comment
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You got the spelling right, I muffed it up. "Brophy" is correct, "Brody" isn't. This is a massive book packed with just about everything anybody would want to know about Marlin. It is my "go to" book when I need to look up details.
Years ago a friend of a friend of mine bought a used blued Model 36 when he started deer hunting. I remember it as being in excellent condition. He only hunted with it once or twice and moved on to another rifle. Decades later I contacted him to see if he still had it (hoping, hoping). Nope, he sold it not long after he quit hunting with it.
I would love to find a good used 36 as a companion to my 1936 but I'm not going to make a big deal out of searching for one (necessarily).
BTW, your rifle looks to be an excellent specimen, in superb condition. Mine is a veteran of decades rough hunting and even though my Dad took excellent care of his guns, this one really shows the heavy use. Not damaged or dinged, just good old patina and it looks as though it could really tell some good hunting stories if it could. I have a B&W picture from the 40s showing my Dad just returning from a deer hunt with buddies. He is holding the 1936 in a candid photo with several bucks on the front lawn. I'll see if I can dig it up and scan it in.
Also, I'll take some photos of my 1936 and post here.
DanComment
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Damn! I made a reply regarding those coated 165
s Mark mentioned and the Barnes bullets I've use. Wouldn't let post, saying a "token" had run out. What the hell is this token thing!?
MLCComment
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