New Timney Glock trigger

[awiner]

[unclerandy]

I used a 3mm screw shank. I have some cut off shanks leftover from other projects (I tend not to throw anything potentially useful away). I grind them to length and cut a hacksaw slot in them for a small screwdriver. I typically make them 1/4" long for stock Glocks but for these Timney trigger bars I think 3/8" is better.

I drill 3/32 hole and tap for 3mm. You could also use a 4-40 or maybe even 6-32 screw/tap if that's what you have on hand. 6-32 may be pushing the envelope though and would leave pretty thin walls.

So go with 3mm or 4-40 set screw at about 3/8" or 8mm - 10mm long

Also when I tap the hole, I don't go all the way through with the full diameter of the tap - I like to leave the end of the hole slightly tapered to give it good bite on the screw. Then you don't necessarily have to use thread locker to keep the screw from moving after adjustment. So as the taper of the tap starts to exit the hole I go a little more but not all the way.

Did you use a pin vise to drill the hole or a power drill?

[AFTII]

I finally got the opportunity to shoot my G23 with the Timney trigger installed. It worked great. I didn't have any of the issues that some report in this thread. During installation, I could see a potential for the L spring binding if it was too close to the center of the pistol. I made sure it was situated on the far L side of the trigger pin during installation.

Three of us shot the gun. The trigger worked great. No issues at all.

[awiner]

New Timney Glock trigger

Did you use a pin vise to drill the hole or a power drill?

I placed the trigger hosing in my rubber jaw protected vice making sure it is level then used a drill. Carefully making sure I keep the drill level and plumb so as to get a straight down the center hole.

[SkyHawk]

Did you use a pin vise to drill the hole or a power drill?

I mark the hole with a punch, and start the hole with a pin vise and a smaller bit than final. Once I am about half way and sure I am tracking straight and level, I finish with the 3/32 in a hand drill. Be sure and put something in the hole exit area to keep your bit from plunging to the other side and marring the shelf when you break out.

You could absolutely do the job with just a pin vise though and really it is safer if just a bit more work. You may want to go first with a slightly smaller bit and then follow it with the final size.

[SkyHawk]

Very nice, which size screw did you end up using?

[awiner]

Very nice, which size screw did you end up using?

[unclerandy]

I mark the hole with a punch, and start the hole with a pin vise and a smaller bit than final. Once I am about half way and sure I am tracking straight and level, I finish with the 3/32 in a hand drill. Be sure and put something in the hole exit area to keep your bit from plunging to the other side and marring the shelf when you break out.

You could absolutely do the job with just a pin vise though and really it is safer if just a bit more work. You may want to go first with a slightly smaller bit and then follow it with the final size.

Do you mean a power drill or did you actually use a hand drill?

[97F1504RAD]

Do you mean a power drill or did you actually use a hand drill?

From his description it sounds like both.

[aar0n_k]

I can confirm these McMaster Carr springs are GTG once trimmed to the proper size. They increase the reset force without sacrificing the clean break! Thank you for finding these!

Nice! Glad to hear it worked out for ya.
For a couple of bucks and minimal work involved I felt it was a good upgrade, but wasn't sure if I was imagining the reset being more pronounced.

Finally got around to taking side by side pictures of the spring supplied with the Timney kit and the one I linked in post #119.

[tacticalcity]

Originally Posted by SkyHawk View Post
IMO a gun with this trigger is no different than a 1911. Anyone who feels a gun with this trigger is not suitable for carry must also think a 1911 is not suitable for carry. And there are a whole bunch of notable people who would beg to differ.

This trigger is absolutely safe. I have observed it with the gunsmith striker plate. It has excellent sear engagement, the drop safety is intact, the firing pin safety is 100%, and the trigger tab safety is also there.

Other than a lighter and crisper pull, this changes nothing about the safety systems of the Glock. Some could reasonably argue that it is much safer for carry, certainly for bystanders. The chances of hitting what you want and not hitting what you don't want, increase with this system.

If we were to extrapolate your logic, only the heaviest triggers achievable should be safe to carry.

I carry Glocks and 1911s - I would not hesitate to carry this trigger or use it in a nightstand gun and bet my life on it. And no one is going to tell me a 1911 is unsuitable for carry because 'too light trigger'.

I shoot, love and carry the Glock and 1911. Very aware of the advantages and disadvantages of both. They are radically different guns. With radically different actions, features, and takes on safety. They have huge differences that play a very real role in daily carry. I don't say that to be a jerk. Just to drive home the point. There are a plethera of safeties designed into the 1911 that help prevent accidental discharges, and not just from people gettinga "sympathetic response" under stress. So it can get away with a lighter trigger than other guns.. Your finger is not the only thing that can find it's way into your trigger guard, and little extra pull weight is a good idea with the only safety is a trigger safety. For self-defense, the glock's trigger is perfect the way it is. Competition, plingking for fun...that is a different world entirely.

I've had light competition triggers in Glocks. Quickly realized it was a bad idea for anything other than plinking or competition. Thankfully learned that lesson on a dry, clear range. For competition, where you're not surrounded by inoccent people in every direction, and where you point it always going to be clear and safe I have no problem with it. In the real world...for duty or concealed carry...where you have no control over your enviorment...no thank you!

Others also make a valid point about the prosecution/families lawyer making a hayday out of the modifications you make to your gun in court. They do it all the time. But truth is you're screwed no matter what. Especially in this sate. Same goes with the decals on your car window, shirts you wear, even your posts on sites like this one will be shown in court. I'm very much a gun culture guy. That so will be held against me should I find myself having to defend my use of force. Actually having to use these things in self-defense is lose-lose regardless of whether it's "justified" or not. The mods we make just make it easier to screw us if we use them for self defense. How much you chose to worry about that is up to you. I've modded the heck ouf my guns. I always go with decent weight carry triggers. But I've got fancy slides, red dots, etc. A lawyer, or reporter, would have a field day making me out to someone and something I am not.

[unclerandy]

Nice! Glad to hear it worked out for ya.
For a couple of bucks and minimal work involved I felt it was a good upgrade, but wasn't sure if I was imagining the reset being more pronounced.

Finally got around to taking side by side pictures of the spring supplied with the Timney kit and the one I linked in post #119.

So how does the stronger spring work if its shorter than the Timney spring?

[awiner]

So how does the stronger spring work if its shorter than the Timney spring?

[jimmykan]

I bought one of these triggers a few weeks back, and finally tweaked it to my liking.

The Timney-supplied trigger return spring, and even the McMaster spring, did not produce the strong pop-out reset that that my factory Glock triggers have, and that I prefer.

So I bought a few different sizes of music wire and bent/wound my own torsion springs. I had to experiment with wire diameter and mandrel size, and finally some .039" diameter wire bent around a .185" diameter pin gauge yielded a nice .220" ID torsion spring that produced the reset feel that I wanted, and a 4-lb trigger break.

(I am using a factory Glock "-" connector).

[SkyHawk]

So how does the stronger spring work if its shorter than the Timney spring?

The Timney spring is a bit longer than needed IMO. I trimmed one of the legs on mine.