New Timney Glock trigger

[Snoopy47]

I'm repeating myself here again I'm sure.

It seems that there are several things going on here.

1) Not a lot of folks actually enjoy shooting in a competitive and controlled atmosphere, so the appreciation of an lighter crisper trigger is lost on them.

2) Timney is not the lightest or crispest out there. It is however a new fire control design that eliminates the trigger bar spring, and is no longer dependent on the striker spring as part of the trigger tension. As such and unlike every single other aftermarket trigger out there Timney can use a SIX POUND STRIKER SPRING!!!!!!!!!! and still get a sub 3 lb trigger pull.

3) The striker plunger safety is still in the slide. It wasn't removed from the design.

4) The trigger shoe safety is still in the design. In fact, I think it's a little too safe, and additional take up cannot be reduced without user modification.

************

Anyway.............. I think this Timney product is awesome. Anyone with a lighter or crisper trigger that isn't Timney runs the risk of light primer strikes and failure to ignite.

In a competitive atmosphere a light strike tap and rack recovery of a superior shooter can be bested by a lesser shooter with a clean run.

The mechanical/weight advantage of CZ's in USPSA matches against Glocks while not entirely eliminated has been greatly narrowed.

[SkyHawk]

I did a standard overtravel mod to my trigger housing today. It works as expected, no need to come up from the bottom like I was thinking before.

Really really nice after taking out a lot of the overtravel!

I also tried a standard 5.5lb connector but I like the DOT connector better. I have a 8lb connector coming in to try as well.

I also see Johnny Glock is selling a 'Combat Conversion' for the Timney. It has a trigger housing with overtravel screw, new connector and striker spring. The idea was to give a harder wall. I wonder what springs and connector he is using??

https://johnnyglocks.com/products/timney-combat-conversion-kit

[Snoopy47]

I did a standard overtravel mod to my trigger housing today. It works as expected, no need to come up from the bottom like I was thinking before.

NDZ sells this exact thing for like $8.

That said, they are all out of stock at the moment, but as you probably discovered, it's not all that hard to do yourself.

https://www.ndzperformance.com/Glock-Gen-1-4-Trigger-Stop-Control-Housing-s/8405.htm

[SkyHawk]

NDZ sells this exact thing for like $8.

That said, they are all out of stock at the moment, but as you probably discovered, it's not all that hard to do yourself.

https://www.ndzperformance.com/Glock...ing-s/8405.htm

It looks like they are getting $17 for the Gen4 housings and no stock on 9mm. For some reason Gen4 9mm housings are sold out nearly everywhere and going for near $30 on ebay. Probably all the P80 builders sucking them up...

Also I noticed the screw I needed this time was longer than I usually need for the stock trigger bars. So I am wondering if all these pre-made units will come with a long enough set screw. I was able to do what I needed with the screw length I usually use, but I went back and made a longer screw so it would have full bite in the housing. I don't think the Timney bar goes back as far as a stock bar does in the housing shelf slot.

[Dr. Peter Venkman]

There is no case law showing that a modified trigger turned a legitimate shoot bad. If you're aware of a single example please post it.

[awiner]

I did a standard overtravel mod to my trigger housing today. It works as expected, no need to come up from the bottom like I was thinking before.

What diameter and length hex set screw did you use ?

[SkyHawk]

What diameter and length hex set screw did you use ?

I used a 3mm screw shank. I have some cut off shanks leftover from other projects (I tend not to throw anything potentially useful away). I grind them to length and cut a hacksaw slot in them for a small screwdriver. I typically make them 1/4" long for stock Glocks but for these Timney trigger bars I think 3/8" is better.

I drill 3/32 hole and tap for 3mm. You could also use a 4-40 or maybe even 6-32 screw/tap if that's what you have on hand. 6-32 may be pushing the envelope though and would leave pretty thin walls.

So go with 3mm or 4-40 set screw at about 3/8" or 8mm - 10mm long

Also when I tap the hole, I don't go all the way through with the full diameter of the tap - I like to leave the end of the hole slightly tapered to give it good bite on the screw. Then you don't necessarily have to use thread locker to keep the screw from moving after adjustment. So as the taper of the tap starts to exit the hole I go a little more but not all the way.

[awiner]

I used a 3mm screw shank. I have some cut off shanks leftover from other projects. I grind them to length and cut a slot in them for a small screwdriver. I typically make them 1/4" long for stock Glocks but for these Tinmey trigger bars I think 3/8" is better.

I drill 3/32 hole and tap for 3mm. You could also use a 4-40 or maybe even 6-32 screw/tap if that's what you have on hand. 6-32 may be pushing the envelope though and would leave pretty thin walls.

So go with 3mm or 4-40 set screw at about 3/8" or 8mm - 10mm long

Also when I tap the hole, I don't go all the way through with the full diameter of the tap - I like to leave the end of the hole slightly tapered to give it good bite on the screw. Then you don't necessarily have to use thread locker to keep the screw from moving after adjustment. So as the taper of the tap starts to exit the hole I go a little more but not all the way.

Thank You for the detailed info and suggestions.

[coals]

Dooder, did you have to file down the back of the red trigger safety when you reduced your pretravel? Watching your video with how much of the pretravel is cut out, I'm surprised the firing pin safety (plunger) isn't completely defeated. And drop safety as well. It would be pretty cool if they were still intact because that reduction is aggressive.


I found this site that has the modified trigger housing for post or pre/post travel reduction. More pricey at $29/39 each plus shipping.

https://vanekcustom.com/custom-parts/

[SkyHawk]

Dooder, did you have to file down the back of the red trigger safety when you reduced your pretravel? Watching your video with how much of the pretravel is cut out, I'm surprised the firing pin safety (plunger) isn't completely defeated. And drop safety as well. It would be pretty cool if they were still intact because that reduction is aggressive.


I found this site that has the modified trigger housing for post or pre/post travel reduction. More pricey at $29/39 each plus shipping.
https://vanekcustom.com/custom-parts/

The only way to take out any meaningful pre-travel while maintaining the trigger safety, is to trim the trigger tab safety. And the only way to keep the firing pin safety operating properly when you do that, is to re-profile the hump on the trigger bar that engages it.

And that holds true even if using a modified trigger housing. And there is probably no need for a housing with pre-travel adjust since the Timney has it already.

[coals]

The only way to take out any meaningful pre-travel while maintaining the trigger safety, is to trim the trigger tab safety. And the only way to keep the firing pin safety operating properly when you do that, is to re-profile the hump on the trigger bar that engages it.

And that holds true even if using a modified trigger housing. And there is probably no need for a housing with pre-travel adjust since the Timney has it already.

That makes sense.

What is the best way to trim the trigger safety tab?

[SkyHawk]

That makes sense.

What is the best way to trim the trigger safety tab?

On the Timney - remove it, trim (file) it. Be sure and keep the angle such that it has square and complete surface engagement with the frame when it is pulled against the frame.

On a stock Glock trigger you can trim the plastic tab with an exacto while still attached to the shoe/bar - or you can drive out the blind pin, remove the shoe and tab, and then trim it.

Johnny Glock has some videos on Youtube showing how to trim the tab and remove the shoe if you want on a stock Glock trigger.

[Dooder]

Dooder, did you have to file down the back of the red trigger safety when you reduced your pretravel? Watching your video with how much of the pretravel is cut out, I'm surprised the firing pin safety (plunger) isn't completely defeated. And drop safety as well. It would be pretty cool if they were still intact because that reduction is aggressive.


I found this site that has the modified trigger housing for post or pre/post travel reduction. More pricey at $29/39 each plus shipping.
https://vanekcustom.com/custom-parts/

I made the video to show that what he ended up with could be done and to show the trigger pull scale phenomenon...also I wanted to see if I could figure out this new puzzle haaha. Tuners gotta tune! With that being said I'll say this:

The geometry of the Timney is great because with that much pretravel taken out, the firing pin plunger still functions and blocks the firing pin. But with that much pretravel taken out it, the cruciform is no longer in the safe shelf.

So yes it is possible to remove some of the pretravel from the stock Timney while retaining all safeties. You just have to figure out the correct adjustment.

I think using a S&W revo that pushes off is a good analogy - if it pushes off, the firing pin is blocked because the flag was not engaged by the trigger. Whether or not someone wants to run that is up to them. I've heard the argument go both ways.

It would take a lot more work to get the Timney system to be absolutely ideal. The plunger dims need to be modified, not the hump that depresses it. Also the trigger bar needs some modification to be completely ideal...I'm working on it haaha.

If you watch Johnny Glock's first video of the Timney trigger he really does go into good explanation that pretravel isn't really that big a deal and I completely agree. Especially with how transparent Timney has made it. But if that is what you seek, you can take a good amount of pretravel out while still remaining in the safe shelf.

Yes the trigger safety tab needs to be reprofiled in order to keep it functioning.

As has been said you don't need pretravel adjustment as the Timney has it built in. Just get the overtravel housing or do it yourself. If you like the Ghost connectors they have an overtravel tab built in that you can tune to your liking.

[coals]

I made the video to show that what he ended up with could be done and to show the trigger pull scale phenomenon...also I wanted to see if I could figure out this new puzzle haaha. Tuners gotta tune! With that being said I'll say this:

The geometry of the Timney is great because with that much pretravel taken out, the firing pin plunger still functions and blocks the firing pin. But with that much pretravel taken out it, the cruciform is no longer in the safe shelf.

So yes it is possible to remove some of the pretravel from the stock Timney while retaining all safeties. You just have to figure out the correct adjustment.

I think using a S&W revo that pushes off is a good analogy - if it pushes off, the firing pin is blocked because the flag was not engaged by the trigger. Whether or not someone wants to run that is up to them. I've heard the argument go both ways.

It would take a lot more work to get the Timney system to be absolutely ideal. The plunger dims need to be modified, not the hump that depresses it. Also the trigger bar needs some modification to be completely ideal...I'm working on it haaha.

If you watch Johnny Glock's first video of the Timney trigger he really does go into good explanation that pretravel isn't really that big a deal and I completely agree. Especially with how transparent Timney has made it. But if that is what you seek, you can take a good amount of pretravel out while still remaining in the safe shelf.

Yes the trigger safety tab needs to be reprofiled in order to keep it functioning.

As has been said you don't need pretravel adjustment as the Timney has it built in. Just get the overtravel housing or do it yourself. If you like the Ghost connectors they have an overtravel tab built in that you can tune to your liking.

Haha you are a mad scientist.

I'm have the Timney on a Shadow Systems MR918 Elite with an 8 lb connector. The break is crisp/clean and feels over 4 lbs (no lyman). There is some pretravel that could be reduced before the trigger bar even touches the plunger but I don't think its worth the work to file down the trigger safety tab. I also agree that pretravel really isn't that big a deal. I did order the overtravel trigger housing though .

[tt350z]

I got mine installed just recently too! Have yet to shoot it. Did you noticeably feel any major differences compared to other brands like ZEV, Agency, etc