Hornady lnl ap users * NEW QUESTION *

[slopoke]

I believe you could have accomplished that with just a lower assembly, a PTX, and a metering insert. The adjustments are captured in the lower assembly with its own LNL bushing and in the dedicated metering insert.

I have an RCBS Uniflow as my second caliber. I already had it and all it took was to get a RCBS automatic drop lower for it.

[slopoke]

I was confused because in davids post he mentions he doesnt use the stop at all.

You can use it or not, I have a RCBS Uniflow with automatic powder drop for another caliber and it does not have the travel limit stop, the limit stop is the metering screw hitting the top of the cutout. I used it with the Hornady, because it was there. Just make sure that when you get the amount of flare set with a NO limit stop setup, you physically check that the metering screw is contacting the top of the cutout. That way you know the rotor is going through its full travel.

[TexasJackKin]

I just use the stop, to stop the movement at full travel, then just screw the whole powder measure up or down to get the flare I want. I trimmed my .40 and 9 MM expander, so I can swap them out, and no adjustment is necessary, makes swapping between the two a snap!

[David-K]

David K,

First thank you for the reply, i wanted to ask wont screwing down the powder measurer furthur to get the amoubt of flare you want cause the powder dispenser arm to raise to high and bard where its knocking at the top of the stroke not stoping right before it hits like the instructions advise?

That's EXACTLY what it does. By having the metering insert stop up against the top (without the slight gap that the instructions talk about) it does two things: #1. It ensures that any additional downward movement of the powder measure (I.E. screwing it into the press) will provide more flare to the case being used because the metering insert simply can't move any farther and..... #2. Since there is no gap at the top, I'm also getting the rotor as close to vertical as possible when dropping powder. Just as you would with any other powder measure to get the most consistent drops possible.

There are a number of videos out there that show the LnL Case Activated Powder Measure adjusted like I described above, hitting the "top of the casting". It doesn't hurt anything and in my opinion, makes setting up for case expansion much easier as it's one less thing to adjust.

[at_liberty]

I just use the stop, to stop the movement at full travel, then just screw the whole powder measure up or down to get the flare I want. I trimmed my .40 and 9 MM expander, so I can swap them out, and no adjustment is necessary, makes swapping between the two a snap!

What does that mean? How and why do you "trim" an expander?

[at_liberty]

That's EXACTLY what it does. By having the metering insert stop up against the top (without the slight gap that the instructions talk about) it does two things: #1. It ensures that any additional downward movement of the powder measure (I.E. screwing it into the press) will provide more flare to the case being used because the metering insert simply can't move any farther and..... #2. Since there is no gap at the top, I'm also getting the rotor as close to vertical as possible when dropping powder. Just as you would with any other powder measure to get the most consistent drops possible.

There are a number of videos out there that show the LnL Case Activated Powder Measure adjusted like I described above, hitting the "top of the casting". It doesn't hurt anything and in my opinion, makes setting up for case expansion much easier as it's one less thing to adjust.

1) The stop prevents further motion of the rotor, providing a firm position against which to force the belling.

2) Adjusting to have the metering insert slightly offset from the top of the slot in the measure body is the right way to do it. If you think that misses something, you should play with the measure without powder and a metering insert in order to observe at what point the measure throat aligns completely with the rotor opening for the insert. That would be the optimal powder drop position.

[roc_my_tims]

Thanks for the help so far guys I was causing that problem I was adjusting the bottom of the stop not realizing the stop controls the powder and I needed to be adjusting the die after adjusting the stop to control the crimp.

Now moving on to if I should use the bullet feeder die I brought or not I use Lee dies and am used to seating and crimping separately but I obviously have to do both in the same station to use the bullet feeding die.

The lfc die works very well
anyone have a reason to not chrimp and seat with the same die?

Ive never done it before personally

[9mmepiphany]

The lfc die works very well
anyone have a reason to not chrimp and seat with the same die?

Ive never done it before personally

Not really a reason not to seat and crimp in the same die, however, be aware that any adjustment to one will affect the settings of the other.

It is easy to do with the Hornady New Dimension Seating Die, because you have separate adjustments for the seating depth and the amount of crimp

[roc_my_tims]

seat and chrimp die is a work in progress for me, will spend some more time on it tomorrow.

I am however having trouble with the bullet seating die, will will be buying a bully adapter and lee tube set later this week, for now I was trying to use the die only and having horible reliability with xtreme 9mm rn 115 gn plated bullets.

anyone have any tips on setting up the bullet feed die? I was wondering if maybe i needed more chrimp in my bullets to make the die work better. but thought i'd ask before i changed any dies already set.

[9mmepiphany]

You shouldn't be crimping before the case gets to the bullet feeder.

Are you having trouble with getting the bullet to fall through the first collet or the second?

[roc_my_tims]

I got the bullet feeder working alot better. By figureing out the powder drop adjustment and flaring the case more (.30 bigger than the bullet diam.)

The bullet was getting stuck on the first collect the one closes to the shell plate.

I am chrimping/seating after the bullet feed die.

[TexasJackKin]

What does that mean? How and why do you "trim" an expander?

I cut the expanders to the same length relative to the length of the shell. in other words, with a properly expanded 9MM and a properly expanded .40 S&W, the shell (case) with the expander inserted (total length of case and expander) are the same. so I can swap them out without any adjustment. don't know why Hornady doesn't make them that way from the factory...

[9mmepiphany]

The bullet was getting stuck on the first collect the one closes to the shell plate.

You just need to screw the die in further until the collet releases the bullet to fall through

[roc_my_tims]

Thanks for the reply 9mm.

I have screwed the die down pretty much all the way until its hitting the shell plate and back up again.

It sucks because i want to buy the bully adapter and lee drop tubes but would really like to get the die working with just the die and the 7 bullets that fit in there first.

[9mmepiphany]

I have screwed the die down pretty much all the way until its hitting the shell plate and back up again.

I wouldn't think that that was possible. With both collets in place and the Adjustment Screw installed, the die body should not contact the shellplate when the ram is raised.
I went out to the garage to check my feeder die.

1. Do you have your Adjustment Screw set to stop the upward travel of both collets when the case enters the main die body?
2. Do you have Collet A inserted below Collet B?
3. Do you have the fingers of the collets oriented correctly?