HELP: Functionality issue after Glock 25 cent trigger job

[ducatiti]

Remove your FP block and carefully inspect/clean the block, block channel, extractor, extractor channel.

When you reassemble, the block hits the right side of the trigger bar. That's a pretty steep angle. If there's any binding or obstruction, it might not retract enough to clear. Pushing it with your finger does not "side load" the block and may be move more freely.

This has been an issue with some M&Ps. I had one where the block did not extend fully and therefore became more of a plug and not a block. Not sure what was the issue but after a thorough cleaning and some light sanding with very fine emery, it when away.

I did clean and inspect the FB block etc and it has a smooth movement. Can I over polish the silver thingy on the firing pin?

[ducatiti]

Well I spent a few mins trying to duplicate the issue and somehow I couldn't figure out how OP managed to do that. The only time I was able to even kinda duplicate the issue is by taking off the back plate and carefully pulling the firing pin in the 'safe' position, in this position the firing pin cannot activate unless the plunger is pushed. I move the slide back slowly I can see where the hook for the firing pin would make contact with the flat surface of the trigger bar preventing it from going forward.

So if you were to picture how the slide goes back on, the plunger I think probably has to make contact with the little nub on the trigger bar, and it would need to make enough contact to deactivate the firing pin block for the slide to move forward IMHO.

^^^could we get a 90 degree angle picture of this by any chance?[/QUOTE]

Thanks again. Will do tonight.

[MosinVirus]

I’ll do this when I get home. Thanks.

Never mind. I was wrong to assume what I assumed before about something going wrong when you pull the slide back.

I just did it myself.

You pull the slide back until the barrel starts unlocking from the slide - too far. The trigger doesn't reset. The striker block enters the safe position.

But, even though there is more of a wall when reassembling, I can overcome the wall without much effort.

I suspect you are being to sensitive/gentle. Or that your firing pin block spring is not properly installed. Without seeing the gun I can't really tell what the issue is if there is one.

[boopiejones]

Never mind. I was wrong to assume what I assumed before about something going wrong when you pull the slide back.

I just did it myself.

You pull the slide back until the barrel starts unlocking from the slide - too far. The trigger doesn't reset. The striker block enters the safe position.

But, even though there is more of a wall when reassembling, I can overcome the wall without much effort.

I suspect you are being to sensitive/gentle. Or that your firing pin block spring is not properly installed. Without seeing the gun I can't really tell what the issue is if there is one.

There is definitely more of a “wall” when the slide is in the safe position. It’s even visible when looking at the safety plunger with the slide removed. There is a literal “wall” when the plunger hangs down in the safe mode.

My concern is that the trigger bar was polished too much. Once you change the profile of the little hook that is supposed to retract the safety plunger, it is quite possible that it can no longer retract the plunger due to two flat surfaces coming into contact with each other.

[ducatiti]

This would be my best guestimate as well. I purchased both the stock trigger and safety plunger to cover my basis. I hope I didn't over polish the firing pin block... could this be another culprit?

[_TomT_]

This would be my best guestimate as well. I purchased both the stock trigger and safety plunger to cover my basis. I hope I didn't over polish the firing pin block... could this be another culprit?

If you install the new trigger bar and it works then I wouldn't worry about it.

[BigPimping]

I think that putting it back to stock would probably be a good idea. Especially if you ever have to use it in self-defense. If you've modified the fire alarm in any way, the prosecutor will probably take that and run with it.

[Litespeeds]

This is why nobody wants to buy guns that were modified by do it yourself wannabe gunsmiths. Instead of trying to figure it out, just let a qualified Glock armorer fix it and call it a lesson learned.

[ducatiti]

This is why nobody wants to buy guns that were modified by do it yourself wannabe gunsmiths. Instead of trying to figure it out, just let a qualified Glock armorer fix it and call it a lesson learned.

Noted. I'll try to fix myself first by putting everything back to stock, internal parts that were polished that is.

[Lead Waster]

This is why nobody wants to buy guns that were modified by do it yourself wannabe gunsmiths. Instead of trying to figure it out, just let a qualified Glock armorer fix it and call it a lesson learned.

Another great reason to join GSSF. Go to a match, hand the armorer your gun and he'll fix it.

But yeah, one great thing about Glocks is the cheapness of replacement stock parts. Screwed it up? Buy replacement parts and drop them in!

And another lesson learned here is that a reliable firearm with a rough trigger pull is head-and-shoulders better than an unreliable one with even the slickest lightest action.

In theory the 25 cent polish job should be harmless, but I think sometimes things get bent when you're just trying to hold the little parts to polish them.

[_TomT_]

Another great reason to join GSSF. Go to a match, hand the armorer your gun and he'll fix it.

But yeah, one great thing about Glocks is the cheapness of replacement stock parts. Screwed it up? Buy replacement parts and drop them in!

And another lesson learned here is that a reliable firearm with a rough trigger pull is head-and-shoulders better than an unreliable one with even the slickest lightest action.

In theory the 25 cent polish job should be harmless, but I think sometimes things get bent when you're just trying to hold the little parts to polish them.

Depends on the polishing compound that OP used. Some will take too much material off. Like I knew this stuff already, but now that I've been collecting watches people always tell you to avoid buying polished Rolexes for this very reason. You can polish the scratches off but you're also taking the watch out of spec which greatly diminishes its value.

[ducatiti]

Depends on the polishing compound that OP used. Some will take too much material off. Like I knew this stuff already, but now that I've been collecting watches people always tell you to avoid buying polished Rolexes for this very reason. You can polish the scratches off but you're also taking the watch out of spec which greatly diminishes its value.

I used Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish, and a dremel 8220 at 12-15k rpm.

Lesson learned for me.

I planned to polish my Rolex as well, lol....

[JTROKS]

This is my theory of what ended up happening. I figured it would take more time typing than drawing and as they say, “Picture is worth a thousand words”. You want the “Y” not the “X”.




The polished area should be flat as they’ll slide with one another. You can get away with one being rounded and the other flat, but not both as the bearing surface will be too little. If you played billiards you can imagine what direction the trigger is trying to push the FPS to.

[ducatiti]

This is my theory of what ended up happening. I figured it would take more time typing than drawing and as they say, “Picture is worth a thousand words”. You want the “Y” not the “X”.




The polished area should be flat as they’ll slide with one another. You can get away with one being rounded and the other flat, but not both as the bearing surface will be too little. If you played billiards you can imagine what direction the trigger is trying to push the FPS to.

Love the illustration! =)

Makes total sense, may be the trigger bar in my case.

I'll check out the trigger bar tab when I get home. While waiting for my replacement parts, I may try to modify the tab to see if this would fix things temporarily.

[Cpl_T-Pot]

Did the firing pin block spring get cocked and install incorrectly when reassembling it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk