HELP: Functionality issue after Glock 25 cent trigger job

[ducatiti]

From your posted picture, I don't believe you over polished your FPS.

I meant the block on the firing pin itself. Does this hit the trigger bar or so?

[Preston-CLB]

But then again, I’m shooting low and left with the stock trigger lol.

If you are right handed, try gripping tighter with the left hand. Doing so will counteract the tendency to push the muzzle down and left on your trigger pull.
-p

[ducatiti]

If you are right handed, try gripping tighter with the left hand. Doing so will counteract the tendency to push the muzzle down and left on your trigger pull.
-p

Noted and thank you. I've been practicing this while dry firing. Easier to accomplish with the polished parts for sure.

[ducatiti]

EDIT:
After further investigation, my assumption that something wrong was happening here was incorrect.

You may have overpolished something. It is almost as if the trigger bar is catching the striker ever so slightly as you take the slide off.

I noticed you move the slide a little too much to the rear. In this case the trigger should have reset, but it doesn't.

However your striker is pulled back and the firing pin block enters the "safe" position. It should be in the "fired" position with the striker freely floating in the slide when you take the slide off. That is also why a Glock rattles when it is clear and trigger dead.

That is why you see the striker move forward and get free when you push the firing pin block. So, somehow after "firing" and when you pull the slide back the trigger bar comes up enough to interact with the striker lug. When you pull the slide forward the striker is dragged back a little as the firing pin block drops into the safe position (only if striker is held back).

Bottom line is that your slide is not in the Fired condition when you take it off. Show pictures of all parts you polished please.

The forward ramp of the trigger bar striker block lifter is too steep to push the striker block up when reassembling because it is lower that normal (in safe position)

I just re-read your post, carefully, to fully understand. Makes total sense now to me. Thank you for your input.

[MosinVirus]

Here are some pictures. Again, I am not having any issues reassembling my pistol with the Firing Pin Safety Block in "safe" or "fired" position.

First, some pictures.

Here is how much the slide needs to move back to disengage the front of the Barrel locking lug from the lip of the Take Down lever, so you can pull the take down lever down.

Slide in battery


Slide pulled back for disassembly


Here is the shape of my Firing Pin Safety


Here is the shape of my Trigger Bar Safety Lifter Arm



Here is a view of the frame and detail of connector arm shape (mine is a Ghost I believe)



I can reassemble my pistol without much effort with Firing Pin Safety in "Safe" position (with firing pin / striker in retracted position)


Or with the Firing Pin Safety in "normal or fired" position (with firing pin / striker floating)

[oktavist]

^^^ My glock(s) go together with the firing pin in either position too...

[ducatiti]

Thanks for the detailed explanation and pictures.

I can’t tell on my phone but is the trigger bar polished completely?

[ducatiti]

My stock oem parts just arrived. I will install while watching the Finals!

Go Warriors!

[MosinVirus]

Thanks for the detailed explanation and pictures.

I can’t tell on my phone but is the trigger bar polished completely?

Rest of the trigger bar doesn't matter for your issue. And no, I don't polish the trigger bar completely. And I use sandpaper. But again, I am just saying that even with both the lifter arm and the firing pin safety completely rounded off I have no problems reassembling. Sure, one way is "easier" than the other, but the difference is barely noticeable with the Firing Pin Safety in either position.

[oktavist]

OP, has anyone suggested you try re-installing your extractor?

If the safety plunger is causing the issue, it must be dropping too low. It is held in place by the extractor. The first time I changed one, it took me a few tries to get it in right.

Nothing in this "25 cent trigger job" will cause your issue as AFAIK.

[ducatiti]

OP, has anyone suggested you try re-installing your extractor?

If the safety plunger is causing the issue, it must be dropping too low. It is held in place by the extractor. The first time I changed one, it took me a few tries to get it in right.

Nothing in this "25 cent trigger job" will cause your issue as AFAIK.

It seems locked in place fine. How can one tell if it’s not. It ejects my snap caps fine FYI. I disassembled and assembled this several times.

Also, I polished all the surfaces not just the contact points.

[ducatiti]

So I installed all the stock oem parts I received and the minus connector.

Only remaining polished part are the firing pin block, locking block, and rails.

Trigger pull is much lighter, slide movement is smooth, and everything is in working order. I can install the slide no matter what the position of the firing pin as designed.

For some reason the “sproiiing” Glock sound is gone. Is this because of the polished locking block and rails?

But after dry firing a dozen or two time and going back to 92fs. I now appreciate how smooth the d spring trigger is on the beretta

[ducatiti]

Here is a quick video. Is it just me but it sounds different than a stock Glock?

Pardon me but this is my first Glock, and new to guns in general.

I swear it had that Sproing sound prior to polishing.

https://youtu.be/tIXC1ch4WMc

[MosinVirus]

if you want a much lighter trigger pull weight, go with 4# striker spring.



The best combo is the OEM trigger spring and a lighter striker spring.

Is the Youtube "plugin" broken? Here is the link to the video if the one above is not working. https://youtu.be/1PMJKcRYEqU