HELP: Functionality issue after Glock 25 cent trigger job

[ducatiti]

The gun won't let you dissemble unless the firing pin is in the forward position, yours seems to be semi-cocked, not fully cocked but half way which is why it engaged/blocked by the safety plunger and require you to push down the plunger. I am assuming this Glock safety mechanism goes both ways, it won't let you take apart the gun if it is cocked. Neither would it let you assemble the gun if the firing pin is pulled back, even a little bit.

So we're stuck trying to figure out what is pulling the firing pin half way or what is causing the safety plunger to engaged/block the firing pin. When I get home I'm gonna try to duplicate the problem you're having.

I really appreciate you kind assistance and effort. Thank you.

[BigPimping]

I would just go ahead and buy new replacement parts. Chalk it up to experience and don't fool around with it again.

[ducatiti]

Your connector is not supposed to be bent at a 90 deg angle. Close, but not 90 deg.

With your slide off and trigger in a fired position, the connector should be under tension pushing to the right side and holding the end of the trigger bar down. You should then be able to press the exposed head of the connector slightly to the left and the trigger bar should "pop up" (popping up is what will cause the firing pin lug to then engage with the trigger bar during the next slide cycle).

Then press your trigger forward about a 1/4 inch. At that point, the connector should pop back over to the right such that when you then pull the trigger the trigger bar should drop (ride downward).

If the connector does not have tension to the right and/or your trigger bar doesn't drop (ride downward) as you pull the trigger, you have a problem. It may be as simple as your connector should not be bent to 90 deg. Did you bend it?

I did not bend it at all. Just used a Dremel with light pressure.

I can take a more accurate picture if needed, of the connector.

[ducatiti]

I would just go ahead and buy new replacement parts. Chalk it up to experience and don't fool around with it again.

Do you think that a new stock trigger assembly and a minus connector will remedy this?

[ducatiti]

Your connector is not supposed to be bent at a 90 deg angle. Close, but not 90 deg.

With your slide off and trigger in a fired position, the connector should be under tension pushing to the right side and holding the end of the trigger bar down. You should then be able to press the exposed head of the connector slightly to the left and the trigger bar should "pop up" (popping up is what will cause the firing pin lug to then engage with the trigger bar during the next slide cycle).

Then press your trigger forward about a 1/4 inch. At that point, the connector should pop back over to the right such that when you then pull the trigger the trigger bar should drop (ride downward).

If the connector does not have tension to the right and/or your trigger bar doesn't drop (ride downward) as you pull the trigger, you have a problem. It may be as simple as your connector should not be bent to 90 deg. Did you bend it?

Just double checked, connector is not bent at 90 degrees. When installed, there is actually space between the connector and the black housing..

[boopiejones]

Did you disassemble the slide? Because it seems to me like something in the slide is the problem, not something in the frame.

[ducatiti]

Did you disassemble the slide? Because it seems to me like something in the slide is the problem, not something in the frame.

Yes but I tested the firing pin test with a pencil and it passed.

[boopiejones]

The only possible spot that things could get hung up would be where the trigger bar passes under the safety plunger. I suppose the slide could get hung up at that point, if you polished too much and changed the profile of the trigger bar.

[ducatiti]

The only possible spot that things could get hung up would be where the trigger bar passes under the safety plunger. I suppose the slide could get hung up at that point, if you polished too much and changed the profile of the trigger bar.

I have an OEM trigger assembly on order. Hopefully this fixes my problem.

I believe you are correct.

[JTROKS]

Somehow the angles were changed on the firing pin safety, and the leading angle of the tab on the trigger bar that deactivates the firing pin safety.

Can you post a pic of the firing pin safety?

[ducatiti]

Somehow the angles were changed on the firing pin safety, and the leading angle of the tab on the trigger bar that deactivates the firing pin safety.

Can you post a pic of the firing pin safety?

Attached are pictures. Pls let me know if so, I will order one ASAP.

[MosinVirus]

Can you test something out?

After you pull the trigger and when you are about to disassemble, put your fingers on the take down lever and start applying downward pressure.

Then pull the slide back only until the lever becomes free and you can pull it down.

Then take the slide off. Basically move the slide to the rear by the minimal amount necessary.

Let us know if the issue ever happens this way.

[_TomT_]

Well I spent a few mins trying to duplicate the issue and somehow I couldn't figure out how OP managed to do that. The only time I was able to even kinda duplicate the issue is by taking off the back plate and carefully pulling the firing pin in the 'safe' position, in this position the firing pin cannot activate unless the plunger is pushed. I move the slide back slowly I can see where the hook for the firing pin would make contact with the flat surface of the trigger bar preventing it from going forward.

So if you were to picture how the slide goes back on, the plunger I think probably has to make contact with the little nub on the trigger bar, and it would need to make enough contact to deactivate the firing pin block for the slide to move forward IMHO.


[/QUOTE]

^^^could we get a 90 degree angle picture of this by any chance?

[saudadeii]

Remove your FP block and carefully inspect/clean the block, block channel, extractor, extractor channel.

When you reassemble, the block hits the right side of the trigger bar. That's a pretty steep angle. If there's any binding or obstruction, it might not retract enough to clear. Pushing it with your finger does not "side load" the block and may be move more freely.

This has been an issue with some M&Ps. I had one where the block did not extend fully and therefore became more of a plug and not a block. Not sure what was the issue but after a thorough cleaning and some light sanding with very fine emery, it when away.

[ducatiti]

Can you test something out?

After you pull the trigger and when you are about to disassemble, put your fingers on the take down lever and start applying downward pressure.

Then pull the slide back only until the lever becomes free and you can pull it down.

Then take the slide off. Basically move the slide to the rear by the minimal amount necessary.

Let us know if the issue ever happens this way.