Rifle brass sizing

[jwfire25]

https://youtu.be/yDE84oOuz0c

Thank you.

John

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[baih777]

If you don't have guages. You will or should size a case and test it in your rifle. If the bolt does not close. Adjust the die 1/16 th of a turn more. Try another case.

Yes the first time adjust the die so its contacting the shell holder.

Case guage is easier.

Look for another video. I almost fell asleep trying to watch that.

[smoothy8500]

Wow, he's more effective than Ambien. Yes, adjust die incrementally. Case gages are good, but they are showing the minimum and maximum SAAMI specs. Your chamber is probably somewhere in the middle. You want the resized case about .003" less than chamber length for optimum case life and reliable chambering.

[jwfire25]

So basically adjust the die until the bolt will close with some resistance?

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[JackEllis]

I think you want the bolt to close with NO resistance. If there's slight resistance on one, another one might fail to chamber. That's why you size them to be .002-.003 less than the chamber length, depending on whether it's gas- or manually-operated.

[kriller134]

[smoothy8500]

Oh no, someone just conjured the fguffey....

[smoothy8500]

So basically adjust the die until the bolt will close with some resistance?

The ejector spring will create slight drag. It takes some practice to learn the difference between that and a bolt closing on a tight case, which is resistance or pressure on closing.

[Pardini]

I use the RCBS case gauges. Measure my fired case and set the die to bump it back .003 from the fired dimension.

[baih777]

I think you want the bolt to close with NO resistance. If there's slight resistance on one, another one might fail to chamber. That's why you size them to be .002-.003 less than the chamber length, depending on whether it's gas- or manually-operated.

^^^^^this

[Distinct_Editz]

Hello all,

Quick question I have about sizing fired rifle brass. Do you guys run the sizing die down to the shell holder and that's it? Or do you guys do what this gentle man in the video says? If so what's your experiences with it?

Straight Walled Cases: (Pistol's) I simply raise the ram, screw in my die until it touches the shell-holder, and give it like an 1/8th or so turn more (varies press to press) just to get a GOOD cam over. Then just forget about it.

Bottleneck Cases W/ Gauge: I use Hornady's Lock-N-Load headspace Gauge, and bump shoulder's back .002" after cases are fire formed for my bolt gun. I've gotten very accurate loads doing this, but I've also never tested how accuracy changes not doing this. After reloading for a while, I feel as if this is just a waste of time for me because you will never get a consistent shoulder bump so I'll adjust my die for EVERY case. Yup it's a waste of time. I'ma just aim for .002 shoulder bump and forget about it next time I get around to 30-06 loads. Been busy with the 50.

Bottleneck Cases w/out Gauge in Bolt Gun: Take a once fired case, and repeat the following steps until desired bolt stiffness is achieved. 1) Shove case in gun and close the bolt. 2) Take case out of gun, and size brass 1/10th of a turn more. 3) Put back in gun, test fit. 4) Repeat step's 1-3 until desired fit is achieved. Bolt close should have "just a little bit more resistance than it does with an empty chamber" best results when firing pin and spring is removed. Once you figure out where you want your die, set the lock ring (Get rid of your Lee o-ring lock rings), and then just check on it every once in a while make sure it isn't moving around on ya. Especially important if you get different brass, check the die.

I don't shoot any semi's, only bolt gun's so I have a pretty picky process for how I re-size my brass. Ever since I got my 50 cal, I don't use, have, nor want to buy a gauge for it, so I re-size my brass based on bolt stiffness. Works great for me. Average <0.75 MOA.



***The less you work your brass while still getting a consistent perfect fit, the longer your brass lives. This isn't how you're supposed to or have to do it. It's just how I re-size my brass for my bolt guns. Personal preference. There's plenty of people who get great results screwing in the die until it cams over and forgetting about it. Whatever works for you.***

I finally read some of the other members replies saying no resistance. I've always gave it some slight resistance just so I work my brass a little less. With my Serbu BFG-50 the lugs on the bolt don't lock, it just slides up and down freely without any resistance so I size my brass to be a little tighter of a fit. Never had any issues.

[jwfire25]

Awesome thank you for the response. I've always just ran the die to the shell holder. I will be using the head space guage to measure from now on

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[Ishooter]

Full length sizing makes sure the case will be loaded smoothly, but the case won't last for many re-sizing. If you reload for bolt action, you may not need to full length size the case. This will keep your brass last longer. Only neck sizing is needed. If you reload for semi-auto, then you'll need to resize full length to ensure smooth chambering.

[smoothy8500]

Full length sizing makes sure the case will be loaded smoothly, but the case won't last for many re-sizing.

Exactly why we are discussing minimal re-sizing. Neck sizing will still eventually require a full length re-size within a short time.

[J-cat]

Full length resize, just not all the way down, so the sized shoulder length is .002” shorter from it’s fired dimension.