Considering Fixed Power vs Variable 1-6 Scope

[postal]

I agree, and that is why milliradian are so easy to use.

tan(1/1000)=0.0010000003~~1/1000.

So, 1 click or 1/10 is 1cm at 100 meters (100 meters * 1/1000)
1 click is 3.60" at 100 yards (3600" * 1/1000)

I'd have absolutely nothing to do with inches and yards except for the fact that most US ranges set at yards.

The nice thing is that 100m/100y = 1.094, so for quick estimation, covert to and from using 10%.

If you think about everything in base 10, radian, the SI unit for angular measure really eliminates the need for any "math calculations". It should be automatic. I believe there is a lot of confusion over the system since the US Army and NATO incorrectly redefined this measure.

Pick a reticle you like, and stick with it. That is my belief, and if you learn with a traditional German style reticle, adding more stuff isn't an issue to pick up. All you need is a cross with hashmarks. There are a lot of good entry level scopes by companies like Vortex or SWFA that have this. Later, you can add some refining features to assist. After you learn, if you find something like a fancy pants Horus reticle the thing for you, that's fine. It's too much crap for me.

For good range estimation skills with a scope, I suggest the following 10 things:
1. Look for scope with clear glass to clearly see your target
2. Look for a scope with crisp reticle hashmarks with perfect subtensions
3. Look for a scope that tracks perfectly and won't break
4. Practice
5. Practice
6. Practice
7. Practice
8. Practice
9. Practice
10. Practice

Exactly... except you blew a decimal point, or 1 click (1/10 mil vs 1 mil)

Dumbing it down, just call it 1/3" at 100 for 1/10 is pretty close... doesnt cut it at long range, but gtting someone zeroed at 100, call 1/10 mil 1/3" gets them there without confusion.

#4-10 are spot on......

[JMP]

Exactly... except you blew a decimal point, or 1 click (1/10 mil vs 1 mil)

Dumbing it down, just call it 1/3" at 100 for 1/10 is pretty close... doesnt cut it at long range, but gtting someone zeroed at 100, call 1/10 mil 1/3" gets them there without confusion.

#4-10 are spot on......

Thank you. Like I said, I reference inches yards ONLY because everyone is accustomed to that. I have used the international system most of my life--inches, and the antiquated DMS system are truly perverse.

Rather than Dimitri's 18" center of mass, simply use 1/2 meter and it's so much easier. If you look through a milliradian reticle and try to see inches, you've lost--the dude with the RPG got you.

[postal]

Thank you. Like I said, I reference inches yards ONLY because everyone is accustomed to that. I have used the international system most of my life--inches, and the antiquated DMS system are truly perverse.

Rather than Dimitri's 18" center of mass, simply use 1/2 meter and it's so much easier. If you look through a milliradian reticle and try to see inches, you've lost--the dude with the RPG got you.

LOLOLOLOLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

18" COM is useless for my game... Usually 1 to 1.5 MOA targets for the bulk of it, some smaller... down to 3/4 MOA for closer distances out to 200 yds or so... The rare 1/2" dot, square or diamond at 100 yds shows up from time to time.... Ever see a "fly" target? a target that literally looks like house flies... about 10 of them on a 8.5X11 sheet of paper... Kill as many flies as you can with 10 shots at 30 yards..... Life sized house flies... (shooting a full sized scoped rifle at 30 yards is much harder than it sounds until you play with it and learn how it works... most people miss until they understand how to do it.)

Then try shooting underneath a car... and take your scoped rifle gangsta style and put it on it's side.... Windage is now elevation... and how the heck does the butt fit into your shoulder?????

Fun stuff... It's really a ball.

[JMP]

LOLOLOLOLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

18" COM is useless for my game... Usually 1 to 1.5 MOA targets for the bulk of it, some smaller... down to 3/4 MOA for closer distances out to 200 yds or so... The rare 1/2" dot, square or diamond at 100 yds shows up from time to time.... Ever see a "fly" target? a target that literally looks like house flies... about 10 of them on a 8.5X11 sheet of paper... Kill as many flies as you can with 10 shots at 30 yards..... Life sized house flies... (shooting a full sized scoped rifle at 30 yards is much harder than it sounds until you play with it and learn how it works... most people miss until they understand how to do it.)

Then try shooting underneath a car... and take your scoped rifle gangsta style and put it on it's side.... Windage is now elevation... and how the heck does the butt fit into your shoulder?????

Fun stuff... It's really a ball.

That is why it is imperative to know your rifle and scope. Too accomplish this, you need an EXACT zero. But, what many do not obtain is an EXACT bore height (the distance from the axis of your scope to the center of your bore).

With this, your calculator will tell you to dial (or hold) down inside 100, but you gotta toy with it.

For sideways prone, I cheat and I clip a bipod onto my side rail, then I run my right bipod leg a notch higher than my left to compensate for my muzzle brake. On the calculator, set the bore height to 0, and use the bore height as a horizontal adjustment to your zero.

Obviously, I am not as fast getting into such arrangements as optimal when there's a guy down range with an RPG than optimal. However, it's all great stuff to learn the fundamentals of how your optic works.

This requires KNOWING your rig.

[JMP]

The other disadvantage to having a very cluttered bottom half of the reticle is that when facing dudes with RPGs and you gotta get the shot off ASAP with quick milling is that if you have any doubt, anyone that knows beans will err low. If you miss low, your bullet is still in play. If you miss high, your bullet is out of play. You'll want to see the impact if you miss a bit low, so you don't want too much crap on the bottom half of the reticle.

[l8apex]

Back on the OP question.

On anything 10x or or lower, I'd recommend SFP over FFP. Own both and anything under 10x I'm holding over normally. With that said, optics are really preference. For some bold reticles work better, others prefer finer systems.

There isnt' really one way, but since you're going to spend money. Take the time to research and know a few things.

1) Intended range for the rifle 0-200, 200-600, 600+. For me 0-200 Aimpoint T-1, 200-600 Vortex Razor HDII, 600+ Nightforce NXS/ATACR, Schmidt Bender 5-25

2) SFP vs. FFP, I suggest only FFP for 600+. Many talk about milling, however I haven't been around many that don't have a range finder or milling binos. FFP reticles on the lower end are normally unusable, either too fine or small. Had a Schmidt & Bender Short Dot CQB 1-4 FFP, the Razor HD is head and shoulders above it.

3) Intended purpose. Bench / Static Firing Position vs. Running & Gunning. If you're not planning on bench / static shooting, dials, MIL vs MOA don't mean much once you set your reticle w/ matching loads. That means you'll hold over on most of your shots. Many optic discussions 'spill' over on to different intended ranges. Know what you want to do. 3 Gunning will be mostly holdovers and knowing your load & reticle - you're not going to mil your targets. Someone will probably use a LRF to figure it out.

Good luck and have fun while you're doing it.

[bombadillo]

Back on the OP question.

On anything 10x or or lower, I'd recommend SFP over FFP. Own both and anything under 10x I'm holding over normally. With that said, optics are really preference. For some bold reticles work better, others prefer finer systems.

There isnt' really one way, but since you're going to spend money. Take the time to research and know a few things.

1) Intended range for the rifle 0-200, 200-600, 600+. For me 0-200 Aimpoint T-1, 200-600 Vortex Razor HDII, 600+ Nightforce NXS/ATACR, Schmidt Bender 5-25

2) SFP vs. FFP, I suggest only FFP for 600+. Many talk about milling, however I haven't been around many that don't have a range finder or milling binos. FFP reticles on the lower end are normally unusable, either too fine or small. Had a Schmidt & Bender Short Dot CQB 1-4 FFP, the Razor HD is head and shoulders above it.

3) Intended purpose. Bench / Static Firing Position vs. Running & Gunning. If you're not planning on bench / static shooting, dials, MIL vs MOA don't mean much once you set your reticle w/ matching loads. That means you'll hold over on most of your shots. Many optic discussions 'spill' over on to different intended ranges. Know what you want to do. 3 Gunning will be mostly holdovers and knowing your load & reticle - you're not going to mil your targets. Someone will probably use a LRF to figure it out.

Good luck and have fun while you're doing it.

This is the most sound advice I've seen on Calguns in awhile.

[JMP]

This is the most sound advice I've seen on Calguns in awhile.

Indeed. There ain't no universal optic. At the end of the day, it's what works best for the user. I have never mounted an optic where I could say it was perfect in every possible way. There's just too many different uses and too many different options. Never will there be a one-size fits all solution.