Unconfigured Ad Widget
Collapse
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1917
Collapse
X
-
YOU NEED A GUN TRUST.
TLCGunTrust@gmail.com
Nothing I post here constitutes legal advice, nor can it establish an attorney/client relationship. -
Grendl, use lacquer thinner and steel wool. Any paint down in the bottom of a ding, can be worked out with thinner and a stiff bristle brush. The thinner has a bad habit of dissolving most toothbrush plastic/rubber handles. I use a wood handle brass bristle brush that's the size and shape of a toothbrush.
The AR/M-16 nylon cleaning brushes hold up well, and I've found copper bristle versions at the gun shows I really like, great for detail cleaning.Comment
-
I had the same problem. I used acetone and a stiff bristle toothbrush, and time, lots and lots of time. I also used paint thinner and 0000 steel wool. There were still a couple of places that had some paint deep down. For these I used a dental pick and very carefully dug it out. I also used light coats of BLO to condition the wood In between steps. I will try to get some picks up later, but it was worth the elbow grease.Comment
-
As Trap said, lacquer thinner works great. I just stripped a stock using lacquer thinner #1, 0, and 000 steel wool and it worked great. It doesn't raise the grain so you be sanding away the wood. Over the stock cartouches I dipped the 000 steel wool into some lacquer thinner and just very lightly rubbed over them using no downward pressure. It removed the varnish or paint from the top of them but didn't harm them at all. Just be sure to use it outside, the fumes are really strong.Comment
-
Here is M1917 after removing the paint.
On a side note, let the pain stripper sit for a while (30-45 mins) before removing. This seemed to really help the process.Comment
-
How hard are original replacement stocks to find for the P17?
I'm thinking that with all of the sporterizing done back in the day they
would be few stock sets available considering their age.
-gIf ever time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in Government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin.
-Samuel AdamsComment
-
Interesting, but why are they chromed and painted white?

Comment
-
-
For use as parade rifles. I'm guessing "parade" means working rifle as opposed to "drill" which means chunk of welded metal.
Thanks for the advice guys, she cleaned up nice. If you look close, you can make out two different eagle head acceptance stamps, the serif proof P, and some WWII rebuild stamps.





Last edited by Grendl; 12-02-2013, 10:58 AM.YOU NEED A GUN TRUST.
TLCGunTrust@gmail.com
Nothing I post here constitutes legal advice, nor can it establish an attorney/client relationship.Comment
-
Well done, you guys scored with these relics from a bygone era...Grendl, the chrome really looks good. Get that buttplate chromed and smooth out that stock then mabey repaint to origional configuration, that rifle would turn heads either in a museum or at the range for sure...Very well done to all...NRA Member
NRA-ILA Contributor
CGN Contributor
iTrader Feedback
1bulletBarney iTrader Feedback - Calguns.net?Comment
-
Kinda Hard to find that are not beat to crap. I see them on ebay for 100 or more.All Right MEOWComment
-
I'm just going to lightly clean and oil the stock on mine, after I repair the crack. No paint on mine just the very dark original finish.Comment
-
YOU NEED A GUN TRUST.
TLCGunTrust@gmail.com
Nothing I post here constitutes legal advice, nor can it establish an attorney/client relationship.Comment
Calguns.net Statistics
Collapse
Topics: 1,862,488
Posts: 25,094,346
Members: 355,415
Active Members: 4,602
Welcome to our newest member, scentedtrunk.
What's Going On
Collapse
There are currently 9240 users online. 107 members and 9133 guests.
Most users ever online was 239,041 at 11:39 PM on 02-14-2026.



Comment