haha interesting responses. Its not end of life, I still like the 1911 & know that it will preform the same. Might try to sand out the scratch, might not. Not a big deal, just felt that I rushed and made a silly mistake, I can live with it though.
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Scotch-Brite 7447 (maroon). A few people on the 1911 forum who attended SA armorer's classes said this is what they use and recommend.
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Tried and true method:
Get a new pencil with an eraser tip and a small piece of fine sandpaper.
Put the SP on the scratch, hold the pencil with the eraser down and start vertically tapping the SP with the new eraser tip as in the action of a sewing machine.
SLIGHTLY move the SP around to create a blending effect.
The pressure of the eraser tapping and the specific grit of the fine SP is determined by the texture of the SS matte finish-obviously don't try this on a SS bright polished, blued or otherwise coated finish gun.
I first did this to a matte SS 1911 Colt and the idiot scratch completely disappeared in about 10/15 minutes.
Might want to first practice on the frame under the grips or the inside barrel channel-some place hidden from view.Comment
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Use a file and a lot of pressure and elbow grease. Or an angle grinder. Grind that ugly mark right off quick! Show pics when your done.Comment
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stare at it and cryComment
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You are a natural, this looks amazing and very professional.Flitz wont wok, will only polish the area and make it stand out more.
Steel wool won't remove that scratch and neither will any 3M pad, regardless of color or texture. They are ONLY useful on the lighest of hairline mars that I wouldnt even clasify as a scratch. Ask me how I know.
The ONLY way to truly remove the scratch is with sandpaper. You will need a rougher grade to actually "remove" the scratch (only go in direction of the "grain") and then use a grade that matches the finish on your frame (400/600 for finish grade is what I've used in the pasr) to blend in. YMMV.
Don't expect to get it right the first time. Take your time, work in a small area and repeat. Cant emphasize enough to only go in one direction and in a straight line.
Look at it this way. You can always ship it to whomever to have it "fixed"...or you can practice on it yourself until you like it. Second option is cheaper, but the first is there if you need it.
Here's an example of before/after of my experimenting with different grades of sandpapers. I sent the slide to Novak for the sights...all the metal work is mine (along with the bead blasting).
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This. Stainless won't be as bad as having it refinished if it were blue. Either have it done or cerakoate the whole thing. No rush on it. Unless you're gonna sell it. Likely if you decide to sell it you'll take a hit equal to getting it fixed, and you'll have less interest.
Course opinions are like noses, everyone has them.
RedComment
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Based on some of the comments, I think your bigger mistake was posting this.
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Was cleaning a few handguns that I shot this weekend. Managed the put the famous idiot scratch on my 1911! It was the last gun b/c I wanted to take my time with it. Unfortunately I was on auto-pilot by now and just doing the same routine on each gun while music playing in the background. Any remedy to this that you guys can recommend?

Those are common. There is a precut mylar shield you can put over the frame when removing the take down lever in the future. You can take the scratch out. Start with the least abrasive metal polishing compound you can and gradually increase it until the scratch goes away, then work back to the least abrasive compound to blend back in.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIf you find yourself in a fair fight, you're doing it all wrong.
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