1911 build

[ladder13]

Dang Ken, you are Aussome.

+1

[Can't buy anything here]

+2

[415shooter]

Also after you have done the above you may want to fit a ramped barrel.I have measurements for those cuts too ( Clark or Nowlin ).Just ask and I will try to help you along.

Ken

You sir, should be at the first build we do. If only you weren't in Australia.

[Aussie44]

I wish I was in the States too Mate. Might make a trip over this year sometime.

[Lostsheep]

OK...
Tram your mill.
The first thing is to set the frame in the mill perfect and I mean dead straight and solidly clamped and dialed in straight up.
Once its perfectly setup check it again to make sure.

Now the cuts you have to make.I use a 1/16 keyway cutter ( Make 2 cuts )and cut exactly .105 below the top edge ( .105 will give you National Match Specs and .108 is maximum ) and then open it up to .119 and go .050 deep.( Do this to both sides of the frame exactly )Do not remove the frame after doing one side,Just move the cutter to the other side..Your slide might not go on as you will have a tight fit and will need to be lapped which will make it a perfect fit.You also want to round the fronts of the rail gently and debur it so the slide can go on for an inch or so with a rubber mallet.Then use the rubber mallet to get the slide off and start lapping.Then you can polish the frame,Fit an ejector,Checker it if you want ect..ect.

Couple of questions:

Do you prefer to cut the rails with a keyway cutter (as opposed to an endmill) so that both sides can be done in the same setup which should keep them perfectly aligned with each other?

Some of the frames need to have their left and right sides taken down so that they are exactly the right width. The .050" depth would be assuming that the frames' width was exactly to spec. What are the specs and tolerances for the overall width and depth of the slot?

You mention lapping, is this not a bit overkill? +/- .001" is totally doable with a mill. Does the clearance really need to be so tight that lapping is required or is the lapping done in order to get a really smooth finish?


Thanks for your help, cheers mate.

[415shooter]

Hand lapping the slide and frame makes it function better

[Mickey D]

I wish I was in the States too Mate. Might make a trip over this year sometime.

It must be the New Year down there already.

Look, there is an Aussie emoticon!

[Aussie44]

Couple of questions:

Do you prefer to cut the rails with a keyway cutter (as opposed to an endmill) so that both sides can be done in the same setup which should keep them perfectly aligned with each other?

Yes Exactly

Some of the frames need to have their left and right sides taken down so that they are exactly the right width. The .050" depth would be assuming that the frames' width was exactly to spec. What are the specs and tolerances for the overall width and depth of the slot?

Yes they do but by about 2 to 3 thou and some of the people who posted here said they were not expert machinists .For someone not real good getting .001 on a mill or lathe it's not going to happen.The tolerence is + or - .003 for NM specs.

You mention lapping, is this not a bit overkill? +/- .001" is totally doable with a mill. Does the clearance really need to be so tight that lapping is required or is the lapping done in order to get a really smooth finish?

I don't believe it is overkill as I said not many will get that on a mill without good maching skills,The clearance doesn't have to be that tight,But the closer the better for NM specs.Lapping will get the 2 parts mated perfectly and smooth.

Ken

[415shooter]

So, I'm getting a frame. I'm gonna see how this goes.

[couch]

Looking at the single sheet print, for the % frame that I received the only information missing that I noted was the Disconnecter dimensions. These dimensions are on the full print file also found on cncguns.com as well as firearmfiles.com

As Aussie said using a keycutter is going to be ideal as you can do both sides in the same setup.

Aside from the depth and width make sure the top deck is the right height from the slide stop pin hole. A lot of % frames don't have this surface finished.