How hard is it? If I were to get an 80% and "drop-in" parts, stuff from like Wilson, as in a kit set up, could I build it?
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1911 build
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1911 build
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Not sure. I think the barrel/link fitting might be a little tricky.Actually I only started collecting Milsurps 3 years ago. I think I might own about 24...They're cheaper than guns that will most likely never get the opportunity to kill somebody...
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i doubt anything will drop in. You have to face the top,cut the rails, those groove seats for the barrel,barrel link, and there are some undercuts you need to do which will make it hard to work with. I looked at the blue prints and have been searching for walk throughs on different 80% and it's alot of work fitting everything. All that said it doesn't include all the holes drilled or getting the spots for the hammer and saftey to fit.
There are no jigs out to my knowledge except for KTO but their jig is for their 80% only. The way to do the holes on a normal 80% is off of the blueprints where your 0,0 jump from hole to hole so if you're off on one hole they're all off centered. I'll be attempting one myself after i get a mill but i'm not looking forward to those undercuts. You have to get an endmill and cut it down to look like a fly cutter but i've never done that kind of cut on a manual mill so one day we'll see how it goes.
i believe ajax did 2 from the KTO and a few other guys who can help guide you. It's in one of my old 80% 1911 threads a while back but I can't seem to find it.Comment
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actually z they were selling them for $150 a while ago as a special. But then the jig was still 300 or 375 i dont remember and 150 for the tools to finish the thing. That's how they get you though. It added up to be alot on something that most people would screw up on the first time. It's too hard to find info on a 80% build so KT is the least amount of headache but the most buck you'll spend on finishing oneComment
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You'd be better off building a 1911 with a completed frame if you can find one. Trying to assemble a 1911 from an out of spec 80% is a headache waiting to happen.
I've built quite a few 1911 from a variety of frames back when they were available. I remember one Vega frame that nothing seemed to fit right. I finally took it to a gunsmith and he said all the pinholes were drilled wrong. Guess that's why I got it so cheap at the gunshow.
If you have access to another 1911, use it as guide. If it's a Colt, even better. Just remember that not all 1911's are the same. Springfields have different grip safety tangs and Rock Island Armory plunger tubes are oversize.NRA Life Member
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That's nuts! If I knew about the sale, I would have picked up a few and the jig too. I know when I looked in July? It was the 300FRN price still.actually z they were selling them for $150 a while ago as a special. But then the jig was still 300 or 375 i dont remember and 150 for the tools to finish the thing. That's how they get you though. It added up to be alot on something that most people would screw up on the first time. It's too hard to find info on a 80% build so KT is the least amount of headache but the most buck you'll spend on finishing one
I know of a couple of people online that finished their 60%ish frames before. It isn't easy but it isn't that hard if you got some knowledge, it just takes a lot of time. Also when you do the milling or finishing on the frame, most leave things undersized so they can fit the parts. I got a 1911 kit here on calguns for $100 less frame, grips and grip screws. I'm going to work on my 1911 soon. 1911 for about $200, I'll do that, it will be just a shooter.Comment
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If you want to checker the frontstrap, here's a link to an old post.
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that's sweet, have you done any more work on the frame yet?If you want to checker the frontstrap, here's a link to an old post.
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...ght=checkeringComment
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Yeah. Both of those guns are finished. Its been a couple of years since I did those.NRA Life Member
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Are the undercuts that everyone is talking about for the slide?
(The surfaces below in red)

I ask because it seems to me they could be done with a regular endmill by clamping the frame to a setup plate. It could also be done fairly easily by clamping the frame to a right angle plate and using a t slot cutter.
Edit:
Here's what I mean:
Put this plate in your vice and drill and press two pins into the plate for aligning the frame parallel to the x axis. Drill and tap a couple of holes for toe clamps, and then mill the slot.
Last edited by Lostsheep; 12-25-2010, 7:28 PM.Comment
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This gets more complicated, which actually isn't deterring me one bit.sigpic
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