Reloading process

[nmikmik]

[kcheung2]

I want to start off by saying that although you are new, at least you read the books & have legit specific questions. Most others are just "I'm new to reloading, how do I do it?" so you're further ahead than most.

New brass vs range pick up is a Coke-Pepsi type of debate & the answer for you can only come after you've reloaded for a while. A compromise for now would be to buy new commercial ammo, shoot that & collect the brass. That meets the competing demands of "free" range brass but you'll know the source of the brass. Avoid nickel cases. They can be reloaded but they're more brittle so shorter lifespan.

Cleaning cases isn't hard. Dump into tumber, have a long lunch, come back & they're clean. You don't need to swage primer pockets unless they are crimped, and most 9mm pockets aren't. For that matter you don't need to clean dirty primer pockets either, they don't affect function or accuracy.

Using carbide dies, the cases don't need lubrication but I do anyway because they squeak when being resized. Not a lot of lube, I'll resize a few dry cases, then a lubed case, then a few more dry cases. It's not hard to lube cases. I use the old school method of the RCBS lube pad & that lube goop in a tube.

Have you stocked up on powders & primers yet?

[stilly]

Well...

You paid a pretty penny for a turret that is slower than the faster one half the price... BUT it is RCBS so I am supposed to congratulate you for that I guess...

But then you went and pep-boyed it by getting a Lee powder dropper WHAT?
Okay, I will let that go, you might like it even though it does not fit with your dies.

I am only telling you all of this because as already noted, you have done MORE than the average individual that comes here looking to be spoonfed the answers...

SO, Typically, colors are not nice to be mixed with each other. You can make them play right, but SOME things are meant to work with their own. Example- You need the Lee dies to make the Pro Auto disk work like it was designed. SO, I recommend that you get Lee 9mm dies. (carbide 3 die set). OR at least go to titan reloading or FSreloading and buy the Lee PTX die for your 9mm IF YOU WANT IT TO WORK. Else you will have a powder dropper that has nothing to screw in to. Oh wait, do they make adapters for that yet? Ebay might have someone selling an adapter. Just get a Lee 9mm PTX die for $15 and be done with it...

You have many different choices that you can make now. If you want to prime by hand- good for you. Look for the RCBS universal hand primers. IF you want to spend a little more money, look for the APS universal hand primer + APS strip filler. OR just buy APS stripped primers (CCI only ones made).

You can also buy the Hornady and the Lee hand held primers. I have heard good things about most all of them and only little negative feedback about any of them.

I myself have and love the RCBS Universal APS hand primer because it does not need shell holders and I can prime 25 shells in about 17 seconds. No complaints here.

[MrElectric03]

First rule...read a book. You are already ahead!

Be sure when you load a "batch", start with 5-10. Don't load all of your cases and find that they won't cycle. Many have been there and done that(myself included).

As for range brass, it's A-OK in my book. I inspect my cases often for splits and you want to be sure not to pick up steel or aluminum cased ammo and run them through your press. To be safe stick to brass. Doesn't take a lot of time to check the cases but start slow and you will get the hang of it. If it's been stepped on, has any burrs that could cause issues in your dies, or has any splits just toss them.

Oh and listen to Stilly about the lee powder dropper. He has a lot of experience with lee stuff. For god sake don't mention the D word or even the color blue around him.

[nmikmik]

Thank you all!

A lot of valuable information as always, but again that's why people come here often.

I have S&B primers but they are for a rifle, so need to buy more. I also have bullets but they are .356 Berry's, so to be safe I am thinking of ordering .355 bullets and the powder that Lyman recommends for the 9mm.
I also really liked how the operation of the RCBS handprimer looks like on the youtube and prefer to start with that one.
I think I read somewhere that using walnut shell media with NuFinish pretty much eliminates that need for case lubing regardless of the type of dies you use because it leaves a small amount of dust on the casings. Would it make sense to give a 15 minute tumble to the new casings to help with that? I am just thinking that I'd probably need to tumble them anyway if I use the lube because otherwise the powder will not flow down the case throat correctly if it is contaminated with the lube, i did order the lube anyway just in case.

[MrElectric03]

With carbide dies you won't need any lube. Rcbs hand prime is ok, I use a lee for rifle and works wel.

[bazineta]

So far as cases from an unknown source, even when you have cases from a known source, you need to inspect them, as there's nothing magic about your own cases; they'll split and separate case heads just like any other.

Thus, rather than the typical advice, I tend to instead recommend inspection, practices that facilitate inspection, and acquiring tools to assist with inspection.

In terms of practices, clean your brass. 12 people will now jump in here and say how manly it is to not bother cleaning your brass, etc., but basically, you're going to keep your dies in great shape by cleaning your brass, and it is much easier to find splits and incipient head separation in clean brass, where you can see the defects. I wet tumble with stainless pins personally, but whatever works for you.

In terms of tools, while splits are easy to find, loose primer pockets and incipient case head separation aren't as easy.

It's annoying to find a loose primer pocket after you've seated the primer. These primer pocket gauges allow you a quick go/no go test. The 'go' is really nice when swaging out military crimps, and the 'no-go' lets you know that the pocket is too large and the brass should be tossed.

https://ballistictools.com/store/swage-gage-small-primer-pocket

Case head separation, if you've got clean brass, can often be spotted by examining the outside of the brass. If it's questionable, then dragging a bent paperclip inside the case can often reveal the separation as the paperclip edge snags on it. These techniques are both practically free.

If you want to go to the next level, an otoscope just rocks for this purpose; it's incredibly fast and easy to examine the inside of a rifle case by using one. Pick one up used, or get one of the cheap ones from Amazon. The 'Dr Mom LED PRO Otoscope' is what I use; ordered it from Amazon to see if it'd work, as I had an absolute ton of Lake City brass to go through, and wow, does it make it fast and easy.

Finally, at some point in the game you'll realize that you have more brass accumulated than it's possible to use. Knowing that that point is coming, don't be stingy about tossing stuff that's questionable; if in doubt, throw it out. There's always more brass.

[dwalker]

Thank you all!

A lot of valuable information as always, but again that's why people come here often.

I have S&B primers but they are for a rifle, so need to buy more. I also have bullets but they are .356 Berry's, so to be safe I am thinking of ordering .355 bullets and the powder that Lyman recommends for the 9mm.
I also really liked how the operation of the RCBS handprimer looks like on the youtube and prefer to start with that one.
I think I read somewhere that using walnut shell media with NuFinish pretty much eliminates that need for case lubing regardless of the type of dies you use because it leaves a small amount of dust on the casings. Would it make sense to give a 15 minute tumble to the new casings to help with that? I am just thinking that I'd probably need to tumble them anyway if I use the lube because otherwise the powder will not flow down the case throat correctly if it is contaminated with the lube, i did order the lube anyway just in case.

No reason to buy new bullets, the .356 Berrys will be fine. Shoot them up and go buy more.

I like CFEPistol powder for 9mm, its very hard to doublecharge a case using it. Starting out I would avoid Titegroup and some others because the potential for a doublecharge is pretty high.

I never lube pistol cases. I do tumble them with a media additive and they feel a little slick, but other than that I dont do anything special.

I like the Lee handprimer, have had several and they just work without any issues for me. I dislike the APS strips because only CCI makes pre-loaded ones.

[tonyjr]

To me you should hand prime and deprime .
I deprime , tumble , clean primer pocket and flash hole .
Then reprime .
I prime with a lee and deprime with frankford - I do use the Dillon
primer pocket and flash hole cleaner .
No one has said using latex gloves . They keep powder residue off your
hands [ I keep a towel in my lap .] They also catch on nicks and split
cases .
As for lubing - I dip cases in mica dust [ 45 ACP , 357 , 44 and 50 AE . ]
On smaller cases I use corn , on 38 or larger walnut .
You should put in a dryer sheet or 2 [ tear into 3 or 4 strips ] in your
medium .

[hotrail]

I like CFEPistol powder for 9mm, its very hard to doublecharge a case using it. Starting out I would avoid Titegroup and some others because the potential for a doublecharge is pretty high.

Another newb (to reloading) here. Interested to understand this statement -- what makes it easier to doublecharge a case with one powder vs. another? Is it just that the Titegroup somehow packs down to a smaller volume, and the case does not appear full?

[Revoman]

If you're going to buy cases, I would recommend buying brass only as nickel plated seems to become brittle sooner and at times the plating can flake off. It can lead to scratches in the rest of your cases from sticking in the sizing die. Brass won't do those things.
And yes, inspect.

[Divernhunter]

Some powders are less bulky. Others you do not use as much. Those powders will often fit 2 full charges into the case. The results are not nice!
Other powders fill the case more with the suitable charges. If you try putting 2 charges into a case you end up with powder spilling over and making a mess. You will also realize you tried to double charge that piece of brass. Thus you go back and redo that case after cleaning up all the loose powder. Thus doing no damage to the firearm or yourself/bystanders

[nmikmik]

To me you should hand prime and deprime .
I deprime , tumble , clean primer pocket and flash hole .
Then reprime .
I prime with a lee and deprime with frankford - I do use the Dillon
primer pocket and flash hole cleaner .
No one has said using latex gloves . They keep powder residue off your
hands [ I keep a towel in my lap .] They also catch on nicks and split
cases .
As for lubing - I dip cases in mica dust [ 45 ACP , 357 , 44 and 50 AE . ]
On smaller cases I use corn , on 38 or larger walnut .
You should put in a dryer sheet or 2 [ tear into 3 or 4 strips ] in your
medium .

Thank you for sharing!

Since I am not going to do thousands of rounds any time soon priming and depriming makes perfect sense. I also suspect I'd get a better feel of the effort that's required to prime the case using a hand primer. I was thinking about the gloves just this morning, other than protection from powder it should help with cast bullets i'd assume, not that I don't have my share of led in my body already but it all adds up.

[nmikmik]

SO, Typically, colors are not nice to be mixed with each other. You can make them play right, but SOME things are meant to work with their own. Example- You need the Lee dies to make the Pro Auto disk work like it was designed. SO, I recommend that you get Lee 9mm dies. (carbide 3 die set). OR at least go to titan reloading or FSreloading and buy the Lee PTX die for your 9mm IF YOU WANT IT TO WORK. Else you will have a powder dropper that has nothing to screw in to. Oh wait, do they make adapters for that yet? Ebay might have someone selling an adapter. Just get a Lee 9mm PTX die for $15 and be done with it...

So Stilly,
would it be the right choice to get these four dies that include the PTX?

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Lee-Deluxe-Carbide-Pistol-Four-Die-Set/731861.uts?searchPath=%2Fbrowse.cmd%3FcategoryId%3D734095080%26CQ_search%3Dlee%2Bexpander%2Bdie%2B9mm%26CQ_st%3Db

As I understand even with these dies I'd still need to get the riser like this one http://www.cabelas.com/product/Lee-A...er%26CQ_st%3Db
Thanks in advance!

[dwalker]

Thank you for sharing!

Since I am not going to do thousands of rounds any time soon priming and depriming makes perfect sense. I also suspect I'd get a better feel of the effort that's required to prime the case using a hand primer. I was thinking about the gloves just this morning, other than protection from powder it should help with cast bullets i'd assume, not that I don't have my share of led in my body already but it all adds up.

I deprime/size on the press for rifle calibers and use the progressive for pistol calibers. Using a turret press the process I would recommend is:

Tumble until your OK with the cases
SORT- before you do anything with the cases sort them out and inspect them
Deprime/resize- make SURE your sizing die is adjusted properly
Prime- when I started many years ago I cleaned the flash holes on every case. I no longer do that. Just hand prime and make sure all your primers seat correctly
Charge- I hand charge using the Lee perfect Powder Measure on the single stage and use a Lee Auto Drum on the turret and progressive
Seat bullet
crimp- I only crimp pistol rounds and I have gone to a light crimp using the plated bullets
case gauge
Tumble again
box up