Alternative way to mount a safe?

[kriller134]

As the title states is there an alternative way to mount a safe besides bolting it down? The reason I ask is because I'm in a rental house and I don't want to drill into the concrete. I would ask the landlord, but I don't want him to know I have guns. I was told by the guys at west coast safes where I bought it that I can use silicone, but it'll be a pain to clean up. What would you guys suggest? Thanks.

[nickel plate]

Why did you post this question in the General Gun Forum?
If you repost or a moderator switches you over into the "Firearms Accessories: Holsters, Safes, Lights & more" you will get some better hands on advice from those that responsibly own a safe and live in rental properties. Solutions for you will come forth.
I guess someone has to be a hall monitor-my turn.

[Hayduke Lives]

How big, and where are you wanting to mount it?
You can always bolt it to a large steel plate, one bigger then the safe. This adds weight, and can make it hard to carry off. And/or you can always bolt it to a stud in the wall. Pretty easy to patch a small bolt hole in a wall.

[Nor*Cal]

Silicone? They couldn't have been serious.

If you can't drill into the ground, can you drill into the wall? I would put the safe up against a wall and then run some lag bolts through the safe and into the studs in the wall. If the safe is small and does not span more than 1 or 2 studs, I would screw some solid wood backing to the wall and then screw the safe to the backing.

This is all just a deterrent. If the thieves really want the safe they will find a way to get it. But its best to make it as difficult as possible.

Forget about any silicone or epoxies. That's a waste of time. You would be better off drilling into the concrete and then patching the small holes when you move.

Good luck.

[Garv]

Silicone? They couldn't have been serious.

If you can't drill into the ground, can you drill into the wall? I would put the safe up against a wall and then run some lag bolts through the safe and into the studs in the wall. If the safe is small and does not span more than 1 or 2 studs, I would screw some solid wood backing to the wall and then screw the safe to the backing.

This is all just a deterrent. If the thieves really want the safe they will find a way to get it. But its best to make it as difficult as possible.

Forget about any silicone or epoxies. That's a waste of time. You would be better off drilling into the concrete and then patching the small holes when you move.

Good luck.

+1 to this.
Adhesives will cause way more mess than 4 small concrete holes.

[kriller134]

Silicone? They couldn't have been serious.

If you can't drill into the ground, can you drill into the wall? I would put the safe up against a wall and then run some lag bolts through the safe and into the studs in the wall. If the safe is small and does not span more than 1 or 2 studs, I would screw some solid wood backing to the wall and then screw the safe to the backing.

This is all just a deterrent. If the thieves really want the safe they will find a way to get it. But its best to make it as difficult as possible.

Forget about any silicone or epoxies. That's a waste of time. You would be better off drilling into the concrete and then patching the small holes when you move.

Good luck.

I was planning on bolting it to wall studs, but was advised against drilling into the back of the safe because it would damage the fire resistance. My last resort is drilling and fixing later down the road. Thanks for the replies.

[kelvin232]

wall studs

[baih777]

You can use 2x8 boards mounted to the studs on the wall. If you put it in a corner with two or three rows of boards. You can use that marine grade silicone. Its pretty strong stuff.

[TheWoodCrafter]

I was planning on bolting it to wall studs, but was advised against drilling into the back of the safe because it would damage the fire resistance. My last resort is drilling and fixing later down the road. Thanks for the replies.

I bolted mine to the wall by drilling holes in the back.

If you are worried about fire rating you can put a layer of drywall behind your safe and use longer lag bolts.
With 2 layers of drywall you will get a longer fire rate on the back of your safe than you have on the sides.
A gun safe has only about a 20 - 30 minute rating anyway.
2 layers of drywall are more than that.

You sort of need a spacer anyway because of the baseboard.

[kriller134]

These are all great ideas. Thanks for all the replies.

[Victor Cachat]

Too bad it is a rental.
If you owned the place, I would suggest a rebar cage and concrete encasing everything but the door.

If it is on a slab, buy lots of lead.

[Sky_DiveR]

I'd say drill the concrete with 2 big bolts instead of 4. Punch the bolts when you move out and patch the holes. If you lose your deposit, so what. Better than losing a safe full of guns.

Just my $0.02

[ProLibertate]

I've got to agree with Sky_DiveR. Patching the holes isn't a big deal as long as you use the right kind of anchors: either screws you can take out or anchors in holes all the way through the slab so you can punch them all the way through.

[RTE]

Whats on the floor covering the concrete?
concrete can be patched
carpet can be plugged
tile can be re-grouted

Wood flooring could be a problem
Might have to use the security deposit when you move out
Figure the time you rented monthly and divide that by the security deposit
(probably worth the little hit)

Safe bet
Bolt to the studs back and side OR buy 2 or more safes and just bolt all them together

[TheWoodCrafter]

I've got to agree with Sky_DiveR. Patching the holes isn't a big deal as long as you use the right kind of anchors: either screws you can take out or anchors in holes all the way through the slab so you can punch them all the way through.

And who is going to replace the carpet?