1911 vs. Glock

[crufflers]

I have seen quite a few where they are more than 30k but they rebuild them or have replaced larger parts or had the slides refitted etc... I always got the feeling the metal fatigues and things get loose, then crack... even on $4000 guns. Slide stops, bushings, slides. I dunno how they build up old frames and refit or squeeze slides tight, but everything wears out - plastic or steel.
Everything except that FRN that Ruger used in P95's

But I don't know much about 1911's and have to rely on my two pistols and only one is a .45 ACP (or stuff I read on the internet).

I can tell you that it is NOT FAIR to compare a .45 ACP gun to a Glock 17 in 9mm... 750,000 rounds or whatever... I doubt my G41 or a G21 lasts 750k like nothing, no sweat. Definitely not .40's

10mm? Who knows but I would bet 100k of Underwood would break something.

[JC2020]

I don't have any links. It has been around for a really long time though, so there has to be some really high round count 1911s out there, probably even some that have worn out multiple barrels.

Way back gangsters even made full autos out of them. https://looserounds.com/2021/04/14/l...l-auto-m1911s/

If you really want to know maybe check places that rent them, see if they keep track of rounds thru their rental 1911s, ask what brand 1911 and round count, brand because maybe one brand will do more than another brand? Be like with ARs what will do more rounds a Colt or a PSA, etc...

This round count argument is kinda like what will do more an AK or an AR argument.

[crufflers]

For me, this is just a fun mental exercise. I just know my Glocks can easily go 1000 rounds between cleanings, but I clean my 1911s after every range trip to avoid malfunctions.

Centerfire Glocks can definitely go without regular cleaning or even being left to wipe down after they get so disgusting that they are staining your clothing or making your hands too black. I'm sure they can't be the only guns that can be this immune to fouling with all the Glock knock-offs on the market.

If you have a slide where the tolerances are tight AF and that slide is gliding on a frame rail long slick of lube... chances are better that it can get gummed up on a grain of sand or carbon or gust of wind blowing some navel lint.

[B yond]

Some people sure seem to care what strangers on the internet think.

[crufflers]

I recently started carrying a GI 1911 clone. Bought it to add to the collection with no intention of carrying it, went to the range with it and shot it so well that I went back an hour later to qualify to CCW it. Did the qual rapid-fire and scored 100%. I just love the way that gun shoots, and it's not a fancy or expensive 1911.

Is it a Springfield Milspec or something else ? Are the Milspec ones just less features or do they actually have a looser slide to frame fit and looser tolerances to make them more reliable ?

[Snoopy47]

That sounds like an amazing new trigger. So is there too much overtravel or is it less than a stock shoe?

I have to order one.

The trigger shoe is OK, and it "does" have adjustments, but the trigger safety is too long. So while there is much more take up that could be done, with the safety being long, you would have to engage the safety in order to take up the trigger more.

Now, I have thought of the idea of trimming the safety. If I took a little off the back of the safety I could take up the trigger pretravel before the safety would engage the frame. That way the safety still functions and the pretravel is reduced.

But otherwise, it is better than the OEM pretravel. It is a sub 3lb pull, and it has a stronger striker spring than OEM (my doing, not Timney).

For over travel I got an aftermarket trigger housing that has a hex screw in the back that is used for adjustment to prevent the trigger bar from going back farther than it needs to. I ironically, I got it for like $5 before everything started getting over priced.

[Snoopy47]

Is it a Springfield Milspec or something else ? Are the Milspec ones just less features or do they actually have a looser slide to frame fit and looser tolerances to make them more reliable ?

Mil spec is a term I think is thrown out too freely.

It is meant to mean it is within specifications for military equipment/parts. The objective is to mean that if the part is mil spec it can be thrown together with any other mil spec part and expected to work within parameters.

So while Springfield Mil Spec is used as a model name, it is commonly associated with minimal features.

Read the fine print or at least validate part dimensions before throwing together with other parts.

[Snoopy47]

Chances are better that it can get gummed up on a grain of sand or carbon or gust of wind blowing some navel lint.

I had a Les Baer that I couldn't get the firing spring retainer back on. Turned out there was a fleck of unburnt powder that go in there while I was cleaning.

[Snoopy47]

It can also happen easily if one tweaks the leaf spring too much.

A cheap way to improve a 1911 trigger is to take tension off the leaf spring. However, without a sear engagement that has been cut to accommodate a light trigger what ends up happening is the hammer will fall from the force of the slide moving forward back into battery. Even a limp wrist can case hammer follow of too light of leaf spring.

Ask me how I know.

Chances are, a few pounds of trigger pull can be reduced on a generic OEM 1911 from leaf spring adjustment, but one needs to be cautious to check for safe function.

1) Adjust leaf spring
2) Check for safety by locking the slide back. Then releasing the slide (with a dummy round if you want to protect excessive slamming) with the the slide lever.
2a) The hammer should stay in the fully cocked position. Otherwise, if the leaf spring is too light for the angle of the sear engagement the hammer will drop with the slide.
2b) Newer 1911s often have a hammer cut with a safety engagement so the hammer will probably only fall 1/2 way with the slide. But it's still an unnerving thing to see.


3) If the above test passed then do the above safety test again, but hold the pistol with the limpest wrist you can. You can be on the edge of safety still have what appears to be a safe gun if you have a death grip on it, but under the conditions of a lip wrist the hammer might follow the slide forward.

[Robert1234]

Some people sure seem to care what strangers on the internet think.

Random thoughts from a stranger on the internet about people caring what strangers on the internet think...

[crufflers]

It can also happen easily if one tweaks the leaf spring too much.

A cheap way to improve a 1911 trigger is to take tension off the leaf spring. However, without a sear engagement that has been cut to accommodate a light trigger what ends up happening is the hammer will fall from the force of the slide moving forward back into battery. Even a limp wrist can case hammer follow of too light of leaf spring.

Ask me how I know.

The 1911's I have, I assume the triggers are decent stock 1911 triggers because I would not change them... unless there is something that would give them a more forceable reset. I have checked out dozens in the LGS and I know the triggers do vary.

As far as Glock connectors go, I have seen more than one case where a simple connector swap will cause a gun to fire again upon reset or before the reset and BEFORE the next trigger press. I caught two of these before live fire range testing myself. Not limited to Ghost brand at all, but I steer clear of Ghost connectors.

[JC2020]

It can also happen easily if one tweaks the leaf spring too much.

A cheap way to improve a 1911 trigger is to take tension off the leaf spring. However, without a sear engagement that has been cut to accommodate a light trigger what ends up happening is the hammer will fall from the force of the slide moving forward back into battery. Even a limp wrist can case hammer follow of too light of leaf spring.

Ask me how I know.

Chances are, a few pounds of trigger pull can be reduced on a generic OEM 1911 from leaf spring adjustment, but one needs to be cautious to check for safe function.

1) Adjust leaf spring
2) Check for safety by locking the slide back. Then releasing the slide (with a dummy round if you want to protect excessive slamming) with the the slide lever.
2a) The hammer should stay in the fully cocked position. Otherwise, if the leaf spring is too light for the angle of the sear engagement the hammer will drop with the slide.
2b) Newer 1911s often have a hammer cut with a safety engagement so the hammer will probably only fall 1/2 way with the slide. But it's still an unnerving thing to see.


3) If the above test passed then do the above safety test again, but hold the pistol with the limpest wrist you can. You can be on the edge of safety still have what appears to be a safe gun if you have a death grip on it, but under the conditions of a lip wrist the hammer might follow the slide forward.

[DArBad]

Damn, this thread is still going on. Wish I was the one who started this thread.

I like 1911s and I like Glocks in .45 acp. I like 'em full size only.

I also like mid sized and full sized double action revolvers. I like 12 gauge shotguns, semi-auto and pump, both American and foreign made.

Lets see, I also like bolt action rifles. I like rimfire shooting firearms.

Forgot what the argument is about.........ah yes, 1911 vs. Glocks.

[crufflers]

Damn, this thread is still going on.

Forgot what the argument is about.........ah yes, 1911 vs. Glocks.

I think these two guns are so polarizing because of the fans mostly.

Really, a more interesting topic would be CZ VS either one of these.

To me, CZ VS 1911 could have lots of twists and maybe dredge some new ground without making too huge of a dumpster fire.

CZ 75 SAO, CZ Tac Sports, CGW SA SP-01, PCR, etc... maybe even get more into 2011's and how they would compare to the modded CZ's.

Personally, two guns I have passed on really pursuing when I had a good chance to buy them were a Les Baer TRS and a CZ Tac Sports 9mm. I would enjoy either one, but only really regret not getting the CZ.

[Snoopy47]

I think these two guns are so polarizing because of the fans mostly.

Really, a more interesting topic would be CZ VS either one of these.

Agreed, and statistically, USPSA publishes competitor equipment, and the CZ is by far the dominant choice among pistol choices.

As an all steel gun it will be better as a precision firearm than any polymer, and with it's DA/SA it has the safety functions that 1911 might lack in some eyes, but once in SA mode it's trigger can be on par with a nice 1911.

So when you use a CZ in Production divisions it's sort of a no brainer over a Glock.

However, with a Timney trigger the gap between CZ and Glock is greatly narrowed. Yes, the CZ will still have the upper hand, but now the price difference and performance difference with a Timney Glock make the Glock a good price choice for not much performance deficit.