Sig Sauer p226- Cleaning

[ACfixer]

Not sure what's the big fuss over this - it's a SIG 226. I clean mine with CLP and use any gun oil or a thick edible grease used on ice cream machines, ever frog lube.......ANYTHING is Okay with a Sig 226 - it doesn't need babysitting - it's a top notch combat handgun.

Just my 2 cents.

Hahaha Ditto. I have a little tub of Brownells something or another, little dab on the rails after I clean my guns and they all work fine.

"I use XYZ superlube and I've never had any problems!" Right, of course you haven't and neither has the guy that uses Crisco.

[omega]

[riderr]

Not sure what's the big fuss over this - it's a SIG 226. I clean mine with CLP and use any gun oil or a thick edible grease used on ice cream machines, ever frog lube.......ANYTHING is Okay with a Sig 226 - it doesn't need babysitting - it's a top notch combat handgun.

Just my 2 cents.

It is a combat handgun, most likely it won't stop functioning, however the rails will be worn down to bare aluminum quickly. Unlike the military issue, you will have to replace the gun at your own cost, which could be problematic in California.

[shojivic]

Thanks for this. Haven't seen it before.

[sigstroker]

It is a combat handgun, most likely it won't stop functioning, however the rails will be worn down to bare aluminum quickly. Unlike the military issue, you will have to replace the gun at your own cost, which could be problematic in California.

Doubt it. At least not on the German made ones. The anodizing on the frame is very hard. A friend's gun has over 10k rounds on it and he hardly ever lubes it. Not a mark on the frame rails. He accidentally dropped the lid of a gun case on it, the nickel plated latch left a big silver mark on the frame. It rubbed off with his thumb, the nickel latch lost finish, not the SIG.

[9mmepiphany]

Doubt it. At least not on the German made ones. The anodizing on the frame is very hard. A friend's gun has over 10k rounds on it and he hardly ever lubes it.

10K rounds is hardly anything, but it won't be long before his rails turn silver...there's no saving it after that.

Grayguns has seen a number of the old German 226 model that have been abused like that and it is really sad that a little simple preventive maintenance could have prevented destroying the frame

[tomk556]

10K rounds is hardly anything, but it won't be long before his rails turn silver...there's no saving it after that.

Grayguns has seen a number of the old German 226 model that have been abused like that and it is really sad that a little simple preventive maintenance could have prevented destroying the frame

Is the weapon destroyed because the rails no longer have an anodized finish/are bare aluminum?

[OCEquestrian]

Is the weapon destroyed because the rails no longer have an anodized finish/are bare aluminum?

Yup.. the carbon or stainless steel of the slide will wear right thru the bare aluminum. Aluminum can not be re anodized....

[SkyHawk]

Is the weapon destroyed because the rails no longer have an anodized finish/are bare aluminum?

Anodizing adds hardness (up to 4x harder) and abrasion (wear) resistance to aluminum, and without it you may as well have a soda can riding under the steel slide rails.

For those of use lucky enough to have off roster Sigs or triple matched West German examples, it is imperative to maintain the rail health for as long as possible. They aren't making anymore West German guns and off roster guns are not easy to come by.

[tomk556]

Interesting... well may have crapped the bed on an old 226, but I have a West German 228 that's far newer I'll take care of. Balls.

[SkyHawk]

Interesting... well may have crapped the bed on an old 226, but I have a West German 228 that's far newer I'll take care of. Balls.

Check this out:

https://grayguns.com/guide-to-sig-sauer-pistol-inspection/

The following is how the colors of the under side of the frame rails will change as your gun wears.

• Dull Black – No wear, perfect finish.
• Shiny Black – Slight wearing in of the pigment in the anodizing, this is normal after around 200 rounds.
• Dark Gold/Orange – The pigment in the anodizing is starting to wear, this is perfectly normal and not a problem, the metal is still protected and your frame is still perfectly viable. Most guns reach this phase between 2,000 and 4,000 rounds.
• Bright Gold – The pigment in the anodizing is wearing in. Your frame is still protected and your gun is still perfectly viable. Most guns reach this phase and remain static from here on out as long as proper lubrication is used.
• Light Gold – The pigment in your anodizing is wearing through, your frame is still protected, but you should keep an eye on it.
• Shiny Silver – This is where you need to start to worry. The pigment in the anodizing is worn through, your frame is still protected, but you need to monitor your frame rails very closely and make sure they remain greased thoroughly for the rest of your gun’s life.
• Dull Silver – You’re screwed. Your anodizing has worn completely through in the areas you see dull anodizing. From here on your frame is unprotected and it’s time to buy a new gun. It may still shoot and function perfectly, but your frame rails will continue to wear at a much accelerated rate.

[9mmepiphany]

Yes to the above...Bruce and Flork are basing their opinion on seeing a lot of trashed frames.

There were a bunch SIG 228s which were Israeli surplus imported a while back where the luck of the draw would get you either Shinny Silver or Dull Silver frame rails. They had been rode hard and put away wet (in this case dry). They were great for project guns, but not much more

[ACfixer]

Yes to the above...Bruce and Flork are basing their opinion on seeing a lot of trashed frames.

Yeah, I based my opinon on people using SOME kind of quality gun grease on the rails of ANY metal frame handgun. If you're going to neglect any firearm to the extent in some of the examples referred to, you'd better treat it as disposable tool like a framing hammer or something and not a keepsake.

[OCEquestrian]

The following is how the colors of the under side of the frame rails will change as your gun wears.
Dull Black – No wear, perfect finish.
Shiny Black – Slight wearing in of the pigment in the anodizing, this is normal after around 200 rounds.
Dark Gold/Orange – The pigment in the anodizing is starting to wear, this is perfectly normal and not a problem, the metal is still protected and your frame is still perfectly viable. Most guns reach this phase between 2,000 and 4,000 rounds.
Bright Gold – The pigment in the anodizing is wearing in. Your frame is still protected and your gun is still perfectly viable. Most guns reach this phase and remain static from here on out as long as proper lubrication is used.
Light Gold – The pigment in your anodizing is wearing through, your frame is still protected, but you should keep an eye on it.
Shiny Silver – This is where you need to start to worry. The pigment in the anodizing is worn through, your frame is still protected, but you need to monitor your frame rails very closely and make sure they remain greased thoroughly for the rest of your gun’s life.
Dull Silver – You’re screwed. Your anodizing has worn completely through in the areas you see dull anodizing. From here on your frame is unprotected and it’s time to buy a new gun. It may still shoot and function perfectly, but your frame rails will continue to wear at a much accelerated rate.

Best way to avoid the wear issue is to get an all stainless steel SiG P226

"Black stainless" P226R


"Traditional Stainless" P226R

[rlewpolar]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032ZO7GS...p_mob_ap_share


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