Need a coach

[WingDings]

I'll coach you on one condition.

You tuck in your shirt.

[BC9696]

Thanks

I did not ask to be paid. I just like going out and spotting. Once it gets hot then I need to get paid. Otherwise, cover my gas and some sammys and water.

Seriously, noise and other shooters in the area can be annoying for stuff that needs a calm environment.

If you can send me all the specs on your gun I can build up a drop chart and then we can work on a dope chart.

It would probably be a 2 day event.
Day 1. I confirm scope is properly mounted at my house. Then go to Ben Avery to confirm zero at 100 yards.
Day 2. We head out at 6am and work you from 200 yards to as far as you want.

Plenty of nice hotels in the area but this one is where most of the MLB players stay

https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/phxsz-residence-inn-phoenix-nw-surprise/?scid=bb1a189a-fec3-4d19-a255-54ba596febe2

Not sure what the turret issue is. I had a problem with just knowing which direction to turn them and I was always wrong. I had to make arrows on my dope chart to show me which way to turn the turrets. Never had to look at them again. Just count my clicks back and forth and turn the turrets while looking at my paper. You can figure that out by aiming at a wall with a white paper with a large crosshair on it. Move the turret 2 or 3 rotations and see if it went up/down left/right and write that down on your dope sheet.

We could sit at that rifle for 3 hours and put only 10 rounds through it. It does not take much ammo if the guns is set up right and the drop chart is right.

Oh I know you weren't asking for compensation and my last post was just to respond to all the comments posted in this thread. But hey, I'm good for a steak meal somewhere nice!

The scope was mounted and bore sighted by a smith and zeroed at 100 yards. It's when I try to stretch that to a few hundred yards I grow frustrated. So we can skip straight to day 2. Weekday or weekend bud? I'll be the guy with the untucked shirt.

[BC9696]

For the Rem R25 I am primarily shooting Hornady Superperformance .308WIN 150gr SST.
3000fps - +1.5" @ 100 yrds, 0" @ 200 yrds, 6.9" @ 300 yrds, 20" @ 400 yrds and 40.7" @ 500 yrds.


For the Model 700 Winmag I shoot either:

Barnes Vor-TX .300WM 180gr TTSX BT. 0" @ 200 yrds, 6.8" @ 300 yrds, and 19.6' @ 400 yrds

or...

Hornady Custom .300WM 165gr Interbond at 3100fps.
+1.3" @ 100 yrds, 0" @ 200 yrds, 6.2" @ 300 yrds, 18.1" @ 400 yrds and 36.6" @ 500 yrds.

Normally I zero my rifles at 200 yrds however I think both of these rifles are currently zeroed at 100 yrds which i'd like to confirm & correct.

[hambam105]

That's fine if you know what you are doing, but practicing the wrong thing won't really get you anywhere no matter how much you practice.
Seeking out someone to correct your deficiencies will though.

Absolutely. We are on the same page.

I originally thought the OP was a youngster with good eyesight.
I doubt this is an equipment issue. Glass may very well be required do to vision issues. None the less, shooter expectation and attitude, goes a long way in the learning phase.

[audiophil2]

Oh I know you weren't asking for compensation and my last post was just to respond to all the comments posted in this thread. But hey, I'm good for steak meal somewhere nice!

The scope was mounted and bore sighted by a smith and zeroed at 100 yards. It's when I try to stretch that to a few hundred yards I grow frustrated. So we can skip straight to day 2. Weekday or weekend bud? I'll be the guy with the untucked shirt.

My son goes camping first week of June. June 1-5th would be best for me.
We will still verify zero. I don't trust anyone that zeros scopes. Pretty useless to spend an hour and a half driving and setting up only to have a bad zero and I don't like zeroing in the desert.

For the Rem R25 I am primarily shooting Hornady Superperformance .308WIN 150gr SST.
3000fps - +1.5" @ 100 yrds, 0" @ 200 yrds, 6.9" @ 300 yrds, 20" @ 400 yrds and 40.7" @ 500 yrds.


For the Model 700 Winmag I shoot either:

Barnes Vor-TX .300WM 180gr TTSX BT. 0" @ 200 yrds, 6.8" @ 300 yrds, and 19.6' @ 400 yrds

or...

Hornady Custom .300WM 165gr Interbond at 3100fps.
+1.3" @ 100 yrds, 0" @ 200 yrds, 6.2" @ 300 yrds, 18.1" @ 400 yrds and 36.6" @ 500 yrds.

Normally I zero my rifles at 200 yrds however I think both of these rifles are currently zeroed at 100 yrds which i'd like to confirm & correct.

If you can input all your info into this program it will help out. Create an account to save the data.

https://lrbc.vortexoptics.com/#!/

look up the cartridge data

incline angle 0
humidity 15%
temp 70f
baro press 29.91
wind speed 7mph
wind angle 90
altitude 1500ft


let me know what scopes you have and mil or moa and reticles

[the Scholar]

My buddy Ted teaches long range shooting with Jim Erwin over in Gardnerville, Nevada area. They just had a class last weekend. I've been wanting to go out there with them sometime but I haven't had the time nor do I own a long distance rifle.

[BC9696]

Hoping to find someone with some free time sooner than later. Have a hog hunt planned for Memorial Day and as it stands I cannot comfortably rely on either rifle with the new glass. I failed to realize that side knob with the distance marks on it is key. Doh!

[Chefman]

PM me, I’m in north LA. I shoot a couple times a week if my schedule allows. We can verify zeros and get you out to 1000yds.

[NorCalFocus]

Depending on how my work schedule goes next week. I may be able to meet you in Yuma on the 23rd. The Adair range is a public range, but during the week, typically there is only 1-2 other shooters out there. I've been there plenty of time with no one else there. They have either a 1000 yard range or a 550 yard. The 550 is covered, and had steel setup. If you don't get something setup with someone else sooner or closer, I'll let you know if I'm going to make it down.

[NorCalFocus]

Need a coach

For the Rem R25 I am primarily shooting Hornady Superperformance .308WIN 150gr SST.

3000fps - +1.5" @ 100 yrds, 0" @ 200 yrds, 6.9" @ 300 yrds, 20" @ 400 yrds and 40.7" @ 500 yrds.





For the Model 700 Winmag I shoot either:



Barnes Vor-TX .300WM 180gr TTSX BT. 0" @ 200 yrds, 6.8" @ 300 yrds, and 19.6' @ 400 yrds



or...



Hornady Custom .300WM 165gr Interbond at 3100fps.

+1.3" @ 100 yrds, 0" @ 200 yrds, 6.2" @ 300 yrds, 18.1" @ 400 yrds and 36.6" @ 500 yrds.



Normally I zero my rifles at 200 yrds however I think both of these rifles are currently zeroed at 100 yrds which i'd like to confirm & correct.

-100 yards is what you want to zero your rifles at. If you zero your rifles at 200 and a deer/pig shows up at 90, you now have to dial down. By setting your zero (and zero stop) at 100, your always dialing up, never down. This takes out the issue of which way do I turn the turret. Your zero stop, set correctly, will not allow you to turn the scope down, or the wrong way.



-The number one thing new long range shooters do, is try and convert inches. Stop thinking about bullet drop, wind drift, misses, etc in inches. Do all your measuring and calculating in Mils or MOA. The reason I say that is, your scope is setup in Mil or MOA, its not setup in inches. So if your thinking my bullet drop is 36" @ 500 yards, you now have to convert that somehow to turn the turret on your scope. But if you think/say my bullet drop is 6 MOA or 1.3 Mils at 500 yards, you simply dial that amount on your turret.



This is a screen shot for the Hornady 150SST ammo using Hornady's ballistic app on my phone.

As you can see for 500 yards, your come up (or dialing amount) is 9.72 MOA, so you would simply dial to the 9.75 on your turret (assuming your scope is in 1/4 MOA clicks) Having a good solver, range finder, and the correct info in the solver, makes a lot of this much easier.

[BigFatGuy]

There is no form of competition, other than shooting, where people suggest "just start competing" when you ask for help getting started.

That is usually the worst way to get good at something.

"Hey, how do you throw a football?"
"Let's play a game. You'll figure it out once we start tackling you..."

OP, I applaud your effort. I hope it turns out well.

[diver160651]

I've taken the long range shooting course at Front Sight in Nevada. I've tried to learn how to use a turret at shooting ranges but the noise is not helpful.

As I understand it, my .300WM & .308 can shoot past 600 yards effectively but the "influences" of LR shooting inside of 600 yards are considerably less. If I can hit paper & steel at 600 yards then I would feel more comfortable shoot game at up to 300-400 yards. That's my goal. Anyone wanna be my coach? I have the shooting table and everything else. Need somebody comfortable with bolt & semi-auto rifles. I begin a 6 week vacation on May 22. Can anyone help me out? I'm in south OC.

For the Rem R25 I am primarily shooting Hornady Superperformance .308WIN 150gr SST.
3000fps - +1.5" @ 100 yrds, 0" @ 200 yrds, 6.9" @ 300 yrds, 20" @ 400 yrds and 40.7" @ 500 yrds.

Normally I zero my rifles at 200 yrds however I think both of these rifles are currently zeroed at 100 yrds which i'd like to confirm & correct.

So we can skip straight to day 2. .

I feel for you and understand that it is hard sometimes to get on a semi-public place and toss in the white flag. Zero disrespect and if my words sound anything other than trying to help - it is my lack of comunication not the intent.

But these three posts suggest that you'll be far better severed by spending time in a classroom setting first. Even reading a book, watching a few videos or even using a simulator if a classroom setting is not available to you.

First as a competitive long range positional shooter (often simulates hunting of types), shooting thousands of rounds yearly and as a hunter, I'd like to offer this context: We all miss even if we walk away with the top spot.. Shooting targets at long range is NOT transferred directly to hunting. Our targets average around 2moa, but grow with distance to maintain that same angular value. An animal's ethical kill zone does not. Be very careful trying to equate casual target shooting success in a non-stress environment on a relatively large target to a clean kill.

The shooting, missing and re-adjusting with a tactical scope is the easy part. Planning a first round hit on a small target in the wind under pressure, divorcing yourself from linear thinking (inches on target) and truly understanding the use of the scope is more complex. Again, because it didn't sink in during your long range class.. more range time is NOT the short answer, and skipping steps even worse..

[BC9696]

I feel for you and understand that it is hard sometimes to get on a semi-public place and toss in the white flag. Zero disrespect and if my words sound anything other than trying to help - it is my lack of comunication not the intent.

But these three posts suggest that you'll be far better severed by spending time in a classroom setting first. Even reading a book, watching a few videos or even using a simulator if a classroom setting is not available to you.

First as a competitive long range positional shooter (often simulates hunting of types), shooting thousands of rounds yearly and as a hunter, I'd like to offer this context: We all miss even if we walk away with the top spot.. Shooting targets at long range is NOT transferred directly to hunting. Our targets average around 2moa, but grow with distance to maintain that same angular value. An animal's ethical kill zone does not. Be very careful trying to equate casual target shooting success in a non-stress environment on a relatively large target to a clean kill.

The shooting, missing and re-adjusting with a tactical scope is the easy part. Planning a first round hit on a small target in the wind under pressure, divorcing yourself from linear thinking (inches on target) and truly understanding the use of the scope is more complex. Again, because it didn't sink in during your long range class.. more range time is NOT the short answer, and skipping steps even worse..

I did that. FrontSight offers such a course however it is not hands-on and that's what i need now. I quickly learned that to shoot LR requires considerable time and math and practice to adjust for wind. I don't have the time or interest to do that so a 1000 yards will likely always be outside my ability however, out to 600 yards the influences on bullet trajectory are fairly stable (at least, that's what they said in the course) so that's my goal. There are knobs i am unaccustomed to on these scopes...a little trigger time with clear instructions I can actually hear and question should get me there. At least...that's my hope. I usually prefer a 200 yard zero so anything I might shoot at 100 yards I can just adjust 1-1.5" and it's still a kill shot. Put the first round thru both lungs...second round blew 3 inches of neck bone clean outta this 2009lb bison and sent him cartwheeling like a rag dolls. That Buffalo Bore ammo is crazy. Poor camera video from flip phone ten years ago.

Video best viewed full screen:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzLGcHmOcNY

[diver160651]

practice to adjust for wind. I don't have the time or interest to do that so a 1000 yards will likely always be outside my ability however, out to 600 yards the influences on bullet trajectory are fairly stable (at least, that's what they said in the course) so that's my goal.

just food for thought..

I think we'd all agree that a 15mph switchy wind is certainly something we see in the desert and mountains rather often.. Lets just say that in this case you're down wind and the wind is kinda a headwind.. bouncing into your face from the 11 O'clock to the 1 O'clock and that target is at 600.. nothing to worry about? BTW all wind is twitchy, head and tails are the same they just induce more L-R value. As you are familiar, hunters tend to try to be down wind when they can.

For your 300WM and assuming you always manage 1minute at the range thats going to move you Right >1mil/3.5MOA then when it switches to the 1 O'clock it will push Left >1mil/3.5MOA ; + .3 (1MOA) for zero range CEP.. BTW your .308 will be worse.

Not too bad right? It only 600 yards with a >2.3mil/8moa uncertainty (without optical or support issues)..

Lets take that onto a animal with a 8" DRT (kill zone), but remember that at 50yards that's almost 16MOA, 8MOA at 100 and translate to the linear measurement to 600y.. What seems acceptable to you?

How about almost 50" of horizontal uncertainty at only 600yards..

Understanding this is classroom. How can we (any of us) set realistic goals if we don't even understand the basic logic for the question.

So, I again basic fundamentals missing, I would not discount time with a coach in a classroom, living room - your idea to skip the first day in-house offer form AudioPhil2, or not want to invest in that phase, seems like your really short cutting your learning curve, not accelerating it.

Pulling the trigger is the easy part, understanding the angular game is key.

Anyway, I've said what I can say, all in the spirt of being helpful.

Good luck.

[BC9696]

just food for thought..

I think we'd all agree that a 15mph switchy wind is certainly something we see in the desert and mountains rather often.. Lets just say that in this case you're down wind and the wind is kinda a headwind.. bouncing into your face from the 11 O'clock to the 1 O'clock and that target is at 600.. nothing to worry about? BTW all wind is twitchy, head and tails are the same they just induce more L-R value. As you are familiar, hunters tend to try to be down wind when they can.

For your 300WM and assuming you always manage 1minute at the range thats going to move you Right >1mil/3.5MOA then when it switches to the 1 O'clock it will push Left >1mil/3.5MOA ; + .3 (1MOA) for zero range CEP.. BTW your .308 will be worse.

Not too bad right? It only 600 yards with a >2.3mil/8moa uncertainty (without optical or support issues)..

Lets take that onto a animal with a 8" DRT (kill zone), but remember that at 50yards that's almost 16MOA, 8MOA at 100 and translate to the linear measurement to 600y.. What seems acceptable to you?

How about almost 50" of horizontal uncertainty at only 600yards..

Understanding this is classroom. How can we (any of us) set realistic goals if we don't even understand the basic logic for the question.

So, I again basic fundamentals missing, I would not discount time with a coach in a classroom, living room - your idea to skip the first day in-house offer form AudioPhil2, or not want to invest in that phase, seems like your really short cutting your learning curve, not accelerating it.

Pulling the trigger is the easy part, understanding the angular game is key.

Anyway, I've said what I can say, all in the spirt of being helpful.

Good luck.

As I said previously, practicing out to 600 yards so I am more comfortable taking shots at game in the 300-400 yard range is my goal. If the shot falls within a small pie plate then we're good. I would not attempt a 600 yard shot on game. I am primarily a bow hunter so prefer to get as close as possible. Going from a recurve to a rifle is pretty tough for me but when doing ADC work it's necessary.