Need direction

[Squirly]

This forum is educational to me and I hope my questions helps other through content building.

Thanks again.

[geedavell]

Is your sear spring in the right place?

http://www.m1911.org/loader.swf

[geedavell]

Google STI 1911 animation

[Squirly]

That animation was nice. Long also so you can get a better understanding...

Google STI 1911 animation

[kcstott]

Your disconnector may be at fault

[350skylark]

[ATTACH]344603[/ATTACH] attached sear spring pict for ref

1911 having hammer not cocked after fire (does Not occur whileracking slide manually or w snap caps) . Half cocked actually. And on almost every other round (ok every 3 rounds) the hammer ends up in the half cocked position.

Solid rear main housing ..NO grip safety. RIA trigger and hammer. While 1st assembling, I may have used force inserting thumb safety being an amateur and not seeing correct fit. Visual of sear and such does NOT show damage. Looks straight.

Also the thumbs safety likes to ride up while shooting. I held thumb safety down which I do not want to have to do (already notching external portion). Thumb safety works properly but does rode up like I said
Everything else is good.

I've heard check sear but seems to be sear thumb safety issue. Also could this be as simple as increasing the sear spring tension?. How to I base that tension?

Any thoughts?

Do not want to take to gunsmith. I like to do things myself or not at all.

Thanks again.

You seem to have a few things wrong with your pistol and they all sound like fitting issues. it might not be the sear thats affected but the hammer itself on the shelf. Probly took to much off and The thumb saftey is the same thing. To much taken off the part that contacts the plunger, or not the correct angle.

[350skylark]

Do not want to take to gunsmith. I like to do things myself or not at all.

Im the same way, and the more things i get into the more i realize the need for decent tools. You cant fit a 1911 very well with cheap files, you need good stones and they definitely aren't cheap. Its nice to have if you know your going to be using them fairly often but you will probably end up spending the same amount of cash if you were to take it to a gunsmith, but thats not nearly as fun!

[kcstott]

Im the same way, and the more things i get into the more i realize the need for decent tools. You cant fit a 1911 very well with cheap files, you need good stones and they definitely aren't cheap. Its nice to have if you know your going to be using them fairly often but you will probably end up spending the same amount of cash if you were to take it to a gunsmith, but thats not nearly as fun!

Actually if you go to guesswienn and get their blue EDM stones theys are very fine cutting and hold their shape well and don't come with a 1911 stone set price tag. a .5"X.25"X6" stone are about $2.50 each they ship factory direct you can order on line and they have them in grits from 180 to 1200 and 600 is enough to polish anything

[Squirly]

It is amazing you can regurgitate that much detail so quickly. Def not my range of knowledge... Although I do know what grit means .. Your direct knowledge of tools and species has impressed me.

Actually if you go to guesswienn and get their blue EDM stones theys are very fine cutting and hold their shape well and don't come with a 1911 stone set price tag. a .5"X.25"X6" stone are about $2.50 each they ship factory direct you can order on line and they have them in grits from 180 to 1200 and 600 is enough to polish anything

[mrlonewolf]

Im the same way, and the more things i get into the more i realize the need for decent tools. You cant fit a 1911 very well with cheap files, you need good stones and they definitely aren't cheap.

Your statement is correct sir.

Many of our Calguns members have the proper tools and willing to share the knowledge.

The solution is out there and closer than you think....

[kcstott]

It is amazing you can regurgitate that much detail so quickly. Def not my range of knowledge... Although I do know what grit means

you do anything long enough you can spout that crap out like it was nothing.

I know fraction to decimal equivalents down to the 32nd and some 64ths, Drill sizes for taps, Speeds and feeds for different materials, Metric conversions, Metric drills for metric threads, Weights of materials in pounds per cubic inch, Primary and secondary cutting edge clearance angles, Rake angles, And Trig all off the top of my head.
I'm sure Randall can give me a run for my money too.

If you know what Gerstner, Kalamazoo, Hardinge, Norton, Criterion, Valenite, Iscar, OSG, Reff and nestor, Brubaker, Burrking, Nico, Gorton, Tree, Ex-cell-o, Lagun, Southbend, Clausing, Warner Swasey, Lodge & Shipley, Harig, Browne and sharp, Interapid, Suburban, Guesswienn, Cratex, Dynafile, 3R, DME, Husky, Elty plustron, Aggie, POCO 3, A2, D2, D7, H13, M42, S7, Invar, Inconel, Monel, Waspalloy, Hasteloy, Carpenter, etc means then you speak my language.



Yeah I've had a very sad and lonely life

[krwada]

you do anything long enough you can spout that crap out like it was nothing.

I know fraction to decimal equivalents down to the 32nd and some 64ths, Drill sizes for taps, Speeds and feeds for different materials, Metric conversions, Metric drills for metric threads, Weights of materials in pounds per cubic inch, Primary and secondary cutting edge clearance angles, Rake angles, And Trig all off the top of my head.
I'm sure Randall can give me a run for my money too.

If you know what Gerstner, Kalamazoo, Hardinge, Norton, Criterion, Valenite, Iscar, OSG, Reff and nestor, Brubaker, Burrking, Nico, Gorton, Tree, Ex-cell-o, Lagun, Southbend, Clausing, Warner Swasey, Lodge & Shipley, Harig, Browne and sharp, Interapid, Suburban, Guesswienn, Cratex, Dynafile, 3R, DME, Husky, Elty plustron, Aggie, POCO 3, A2, D2, D7, H13, M42, S7, Invar, Inconel, Monel, Waspalloy, Hasteloy, Carpenter, etc means then you speak my language.



Yeah I've had a very sad and lonely life

Let me guess ... You have machined 316 stainless and the surgical variant of this steel?

This stuff is very tough. 316 is austenitic does not conduct electricity and heat very well. It is exceptional for high vacuum / high temperature work.

Most of the machining I did while a graduate student at University was with this stuff. I went through a ton of bits machining 316.

[kcstott]

316, 303, 304, 410, 416, 420, 440, Yeah any and all of it. for medical devices. Bone screws Top secret plumbing for some government job that were compartmentalized.

316 Is also very corrosion resistant and is great for plumbing parts that are exposed to corrosives and alkalines

I also left out 17-7, 17-4, 18-8. fun stuff. Machined more Titanium then i ever care to see again. Inconel was the worst though. That stuff is a pain to cut and needs a very sharp tool and you can't sneak up on it.

[yari]

Kc you forgot starrett. Lol. Please delete lagun from you list too. I don't want these guys learning that they make a nicer knee mill than the famous Bridgeports since I'm in the market for one

PS what's up with interapid these days? two screws came loose out of the face of mine and are rolling around inside the damn thing. Read this is a reoccurring problem. Did they go to China?

[Bastard]

adjust your overtravel screw, assuming you have one... I would start there before I started bending the spring. as for bending the spring, it is really just trial & error as there really isn't any way to measure how much or no way for you to effectively measure