Trigger will not engage On 80% AR-10

[doki]

I will take a look into that in the morning thanks for the help I'll keep updates posted. The kit is a lrpk308 kit btw I missed typed the ar 10 without thinking

[doki]

Re-time the disconnector.
Go read the install instructions for the JP gunsmith-fit trigger and then apply what you learn in there about disconnector timing to your fire control parts.
I could offer to help you with it, but you don't list your location in your profile so I have no idea if you are withing driving distance of me or not...

Btw I am in San Fernando area but this week I am on travel for work and I won't be available till Friday but if you are offering I'll bring the beer

[Mikedril]

Check to see if your pocket is deep enough for the trigger to rock back and fully reset.

[Granite]

okay well it is a DPMS ar 10 lpk so i know thats not the problem.

Had a buddy order a 2 - 2 stage triggers. Both packs were packed mixed with single stage and double stage. He called the factory and they fixed it, but there's always a chance of manufacturers defect...or bad packing.

[kcstott]

Which LPK are you using. It should be a LR-308 LPK not an AR10 LPK.

That only applies to mag catches and bolt releases, Every part of the FCG is interchangeable.

[jinjyr]

video looks like hammer engages but trigger wont let hammer slip off when pulled so....trigger needs to be able to rotate downward more to let go of notch in hammer or front edge of trigger bar carefully. .slowy filed back till it will release hammer.

[kcstott]

video looks like hammer engages but trigger wont let hammer slip off when pulled so....trigger needs to be able to rotate downward more to let go of notch in hammer or front edge of trigger bar carefully. .slowy filed back till it will release hammer.

I don't think that the issue. the trigger only needs to move a tiny fraction of an inch to release the hammer. In the video the trigger is being pulled plenty far enough to release the hammer. it is the disconnector that has the hammer held back and it's not until he manually releases the disconnector that the trigger captures the hammer.

My guess was the disconnector needed to be timed correctly but with my limited experience on the AR plat form and not having the weapon in front of my I was not going to make that suggestion

[Sgt. J Beezy]

Had this same issue...

Had to shave off a couple thousandths of an inch from the floor of the trigger housing group...


My LMT trigger worked fine but when I upgraded to an SD3G that's when I had the problem.

Like I said, got a Dremel and shaved off some layers... Runs flawlessly now....

Pain in the *****... Removed trigger group about 10 times and even installed it into a factory LMT lower to make sure it wasn't the trigger.


Now I am a semi-master at building lowers...

[bauern]

Also, check for interference between the trigger and receiver at the front of the trigger slot. The trigger needs to be able to spring forward as the hammer is pulled back so it clears the disconnector. The disconnector should not catch the hammer when it is pulled back and you're not holding the trigger back.

[mnichols]

^this was my problem in conjunction with the floor being too shallow

[doki]

Thanks a lot guys I will try this on thursday when I get back. I will keep this post updated

[ar15barrels]

Check to see if your pocket is deep enough for the trigger to rock back and fully reset.

How do YOU define "fully reset"?

The trigger ONLY needs to release enough for the sear surface on the hammer to clear the sear surface on the trigger.
Any extra movement is a waste and simply creates extra trigger "creep".
You are probably equating the disconnector travel as part of the trigger reset...

[ar15barrels]

I don't think that the issue. the trigger only needs to move a tiny fraction of an inch to release the hammer. In the video the trigger is being pulled plenty far enough to release the hammer. it is the disconnector that has the hammer held back and it's not until he manually releases the disconnector that the trigger captures the hammer.

The guy you are responding to was not using the correct part names.
I believe what he was calling the "trigger bar" was indeed the disconnector.

[ar15barrels]

Btw I am in San Fernando area but this week I am on travel for work and I won't be available till Friday but if you are offering I'll bring the beer

I won't be around this weekend, but I will be around next week.
I don't do beers, but I can be bribed with $20 bills or micro-brewed rootbeers and skor bars.

[TATER313]

Easier to time the disconnector then trying to move holes a thousandth of an inch. I usually use stones making minor adjustments, and test fitting for proper function. hopefully someone in your area may help.