Yugos!

[Nicoman]

Love me some Yugo that's for sure.
Have fun with the build, and the finished rifle.
Like I have said," There are AKs, There are AKMs..........And then there are Yugos. No comparison".

Why are Yugos better? I've never had one but my wife ordered me a m92 pap today for my birthday should have it in a few days, can't wait

[kcstott]

Why are Yugos better? I've never had one but my wife ordered me a m92 pap today for my birthday should have it in a few days, can't wait

Fit, finish, quality of parts, cleanliness of the machining, quality of the wood, better tolerances, The Yugo is what an AK should have been built for in the very beginning. That and the Yugo's did some crazy stuff with their weapons and made them work.

[nicoroshi]

Why are they better?

Chrome lined Hammer forged Romanian barrel on Polish PMKMs matching numbers kit iron sighted at 50 yards (25 rounds)


Original screw in Yugo barrel on a matching numbers M64B milled receiver re-weld rifle iron sighted at 50 yards (40 rounds)


I rest my case.
And I also agree with KC's assessment above.

[kcstott]

Why are they better?

Chrome lined Hammer forged Romanian barrel on Polish PMKMs matching numbers kit iron sighted at 50 yards (25 rounds)


Original screw in Yugo barrel on a matching numbers M64B milled receiver re-weld rifle iron sighted at 50 yards (40 rounds)


I rest my case.
And I also agree with KC's assessment above.

Well there's better proof then I could ever relay blabbing about fit and finish

Well I just figured out what My next build is going to be.

[nicoroshi]

There are AKs, There are AKMs...........And then there are Yugos.
Completely different animal.

Yugo M70 (press, and pin barrel) milled reweld underfolder 10 rounds at 50 yards with sparc red dot (2MOA dot)


Does your AR group that good with similar optics, and Russian factory loaded steel cased ammo (because that target was shot with Brown Bear ammo)?

[valley82]

^ this

[tujungatoes]

Not sure if this counts, but...Yugo M72 with 16" barrel in .50 Beo. @50 yds. I need to adjust the sights. Nevermind those little 30cal holes.

[shortround13]

Can't wait until I can post punched paper pictures....like the alliteration?
Spent some time cleaning the kits sunday....hopefully commence the de-mil later this week.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[nicoroshi]

Not sure if this counts, but...Yugo M72 with 16" barrel in .50 Beo. @50 yds. I need to adjust the sights. Nevermind those little 30cal holes.

That counts brother. That counts.

[nicoroshi]

Question for the Nico..


For a milled yugo reweld with an original barrel with the receiver stub still attached would you need to press out the barrel

No

or would it be possible to weld with it in place while attahced to the barrel assembly?

Yes

You could press it out but there is no need to do so. In fact I don't believe I have EVER pressed one out for doing a re-weld.
Just plug the chamber end to keep metal flakes from getting into the bore while I am working on it.

[nicoroshi]

Ah.. I see, my gears are turning now... In some ways it seems like a milled reweld is a bit easier than a building from a stamped rec. where the barrel must pressed off/on the trunion for rivets etc , provided one has a welder and welding skills it seems doable.

Easier?
Not really.
Keeping everything straight, and from warping due to too much heat, spacing for mag well, distance between axis pin holes, and for top cover fit,
re-drill + re-heat treat of any holes that get filled (because they were torch cut through on demill), cleaning of interior rails, and top rails for smooth cycle, Semi-auto mods (fill the 'evil' third holes, fill the auto sear notch in the right side interior rail), etc.

I can build a stamped kit (with barrel work complete) on an AKBuilder flat in about 4 hours from demill of old receiver stubs to ready to fire.
A milled re-weld I can do in about 20-26 hours.

The welding is the easy part. It's the clean up (inside, and out), and keeping the file flat that takes time.




And a correction:
I have removed a barrel ONCE. When I had to turn it down in the lathe for an M70 pistol build.

[kcstott]

i'm not speaking for the man him self but I would guess that the length of a flat would give you the lay out needed. or a print with the axis holes laid out. and an over all length.

Nico knows far better then me. but if you are attempting a reweld take your bloody time.

[nicoroshi]

Distance between axis pin holes = 1.55" If the hammer axis pin hole is in the torch cut (some are) the distance between evil hole, and trigger axis pin hole is 2.133" (set in place, tack, re-measure then weld shut the evil hole BEFORE you weld the seam).
Use a Chinese mag (they are longer front to back than other steel magazines) to fit the mag well area (easy to insert, and remove with minimal front to back play).
Top cover to figure OAL of receiver.
So....I weld center section first using axis pin hole distance.
Second I weld on front stub using magazine for fit.
Last I weld on back stub using top cover for distance off RSB.

No need for a flat. Use the parts (and axis pin hole locations) you have to set the distances you need.

Headspace will not change if you don't remove the barrel.
Headspace is set from bolt face to datum line. The bolt will be held by the front locking lugs of the front stub. The barrel (that is chambered) is pressed, and pinned by Zastava to proper headspace (if you have an all numbers matching kit), and connected to the front trunnion just like the locking lugs. Impossible to mess that up unless you remove the barrel from the front stub.

[nicoroshi]

Thanx nico, the information youve provided is much appreciated. that pretty much explains everything I was curious about. The one you did the in the above pics is a work of art

That wasn't all I did to the Underfolder kit either

[Centaine]

Youre a beast Nico! ^ That pistol is tits