1911 60% Frames

[KrisDSA]

Who makes a jig ?

[liber]

Who makes a jig ?

That's a good question, and the answer probably depends on how much layout work you want to do and/or what has been done on the frames. Some frames only require a hammer and sear pin be drilled along with the rails slotted.

Some frames don't have too many holes in them at all, and would require either a jig with more support for that, or a fair amount of layout work done to get the holes in the correct positions.

Do you have a picture of what you call a 60 percent frame? I've seen frames with only a mag release drilled in them, those will require a substantial amount more work than one that only needs the hammer and sear pins drilled. Most all need the rails cut, so that's a given.

[tr6guns]

Who makes a jig ?

Bridgeport

[BDJ]

hmmm. Bridgeport is a machine tool mfg not a mfg of 1911 jigs. Like said above depending on what holes you have or dont have will depend on what jig you could use. But I have used and approve of the 1911 builders jig. It holds the frame well.

[Whiskey_Tango]

The Tactical Machining jig worked without issue.

[Lostsheep]

Bridgeport

hmmm. Bridgeport is a machine tool mfg not a mfg of 1911 jigs. Like said above depending on what holes you have or dont have will depend on what jig you could use. But I have used and approve of the 1911 builders jig. It holds the frame well.

A knee mill and some skill is all that is needed to finish a 1911 frame. I finished one of the caspian castings completely manually (even though I have a cnc).

If there is a particular question about setups and order of operations ask away, there are those of us here who can walk you through it.


ETA: I dont understand the need for a jig on a 1911, there are 2 side holes that should be done by sweeping in on the takedown hole and then moving off. No way a jig will be that accurate. Similiarly, cutting the rails, decking the top, or cutting the barrel seat are all simple linear moves that are done in the same setup anyways. All you need for a 1911 is a good flat plate with clamps and an indicator to ensure everything is square.

[mtenenhaus]

I think the jigs are intended for people who don't have access to a mill or cmc

[KrisDSA]

Asking because I was given 20 60% frames free. The side controls aren't drill.

[MosinVirus]

Asking because I was given 20 60% frames free. The side controls aren't drill.

Wow. That will cost a small fortune to finish into 100% 1911s.

[Lostsheep]

Asking because I was given 20 60% frames free. The side controls aren't drill.

I am ASSuming you are referring to the raw castings. If that is the case there aint no jig that's going to do that and it will take a lot of work and skill to complete.

I agree with Liber, can you post a pic of what you are calling 60%?

Do they look like this?

[liber]

Do they look like this?

I have dimensioned 2 of these. At least mine look like that and are stainless. They are a lot of work to finish. The 2nd one was given to me by a friend that thought he would do it on a drill press, and realized there is no way. Just to dimension them require a fairly hefty machine as the stainless is tough to cut.

In Vol. 2 of the Kuhnhausen book he shows how to measure the layout using a caliper and a parallel on the top of the frame.

I will be finishing mine soon, and having a finished frame is helpful as the rear safety cutout and mag release are a bit tricky to finish, and require different angle of endmill cuts.

Those also don't have the slots for the mainspring housing, or holes for the grips, and the main hole needed is the slide stop, almost everything else is measured from that.

They are not the end of the world and can be completed, I was just pointing out that they are a LOT more work. I've also done everything manually, nothing using CNC.

[Lostsheep]

I have dimensioned 2 of these. At least mine look like that and are stainless. They are a lot of work to finish. The 2nd one was given to me by a friend that thought he would do it on a drill press, and realized there is no way. Just to dimension them require a fairly hefty machine as the stainless is tough to cut.

In Vol. 2 of the Kuhnhausen book he shows how to measure the layout using a caliper and a parallel on the top of the frame.

I will be finishing mine soon, and having a finished frame is helpful as the rear safety cutout and mag release are a bit tricky to finish, and require different angle of endmill cuts.

Those also don't have the slots for the mainspring housing, or holes for the grips, and the main hole needed is the slide stop, almost everything else is measured from that.

They are not the end of the world and can be completed, I was just pointing out that they are a LOT more work. I've also done everything manually, nothing using CNC.

Agreed, I have one that shoots beautifully.

That being said, making one of these is going to be beyond most DIY'ers: (for doing the undercut for the mag catch)

[liber]

That being said, making one of these is going to be beyond most DIY'ers: (for doing the undercut for the mag catch)

Nice! I've been planning to grind down a small woodruff to cut that.

They are a fun project for those that like a challenge!

[Lostsheep]

For another little bit of eye candy. Here's how I got the angle; a little trig, 2 pins off of the top of the frame, and sweeping the takedown hole for location:


Similar usage of trig and pins can set all of the various angles needed for 1911's.

[liber]

Similar usage of trig and pins can set all of the various angles needed for 1911's.

Neat trick...I use this manual rotary table with t-slots. I can rotate it to a specific degree offset.



I used an angle block with toe clamps to slot the rails.