Lee Universal Decapping Die .. Not so Universal?

[1HitaQuita]

I was having the same problem on my Loadmaster, and ended up bending two pins because of it. So now I just use it on a single stage press.

[MrElectric03]

Can't say I've had too many issues with mine. I run it on my 650 for just decap ping and the case feeder can't keep up. I bent the first pin on round 7 but now that I have spares on hand I've decapped 5k rounds without an issue.

[stilly]

Based on lots of recommendations I moved the sizing die to position 2 (removed pin) over the primer ram to solve some of the primer problems. It did significantly improve priming. The universal decapper was recommended. But wasn't a good recommendation.

The universal decapper works EXCELLENT with a shell holder. I have never NOT used it with a shell holder and the many times that I did use it with no shell holder, I was just too lazy to swap out shell holders, so I "felt around" to find the hole on a .45 (with a 9mm shell holder) and it worked, but I guess that is how the shell plate works and if you do not have it lined up properly then it will bind or not decap properly I guess. SO the thing to do would be to use a 9mm sizing die with decapper instead. Hmmm, possible to flare it out a bit more to make room for the play in the shells I wonder?

[2011redrider]

6s Shell plate

I'll look into the 6s, thanks.

You may have to buy the case feeder made for 9mm. The one I have is for .380 & 9mm. .40 cases won't drop through so I have the one made for .40 on order. I'd guess the .40 case feeder is to big for 9mm and the cases don't position right.

Looks like the 6s needs a bit of modifications. Found this youTube on it. I haven't got one yet, but, mine leave smile marks on the primers when doing 9mm.

http://youtu.be/cxGE04PKd2w

[EclipseDS]

I run into that problem if the case is not fully seated into the shell plate. Because the 19s shell plate is used for so many different calibers, the 9mm brass doesn't always seat properly. I just tap it in with my finger when I feel like something is hitting. I've seen some suggesting the 6s shellplate because it's a tighter fix.

I also found that I need to lube the 9mm brass, even though I'm using carbide dies. Now if I can only figure out how to get my case feeder to work with the 9mm, for the 40, I have no problem.

Adjust the tension on your slider and it may help some.

The case feeder works fine on both 9mm and .40. It's the height that mess it all up. I added something on my slider so it's just a tad shorter than the 9mm case. Now, works well on both. I only change turrets when I switch caliber now, no more adjustments every time.

[EclipseDS]

I'll look into the 6s, thanks.

You may have to buy the case feeder made for 9mm. The one I have is for .380 & 9mm. .40 cases won't drop through so I have the one made for .40 on order. I'd guess the .40 case feeder is to big for 9mm and the cases don't position right.

Case positioning depends on proper slider tension. I have sizing dies on both stations 1 & 2. The problem with this setup is it requires more strength to pull the lever down, but never had any issue with this setup. I'll try case lube and see if it helps some

[stand125]

Case lube makes everything easier, even on carbide dies. I know it is not required to use, but it sure does make feeling those primers seat easier.

[xbimmers]

Cardboard?? "Come on man!"

As you think, it doesn't self center the brass, so it can be off sometimes. I use it on a single stage, so I have more control over how the brass is placed in the shell holder, and can tap the brass if the pin is not hitting the primer. Maybe it just won't work so well in a progressive. Do you have a 40cal or 45 deprimer? Maybe you can use that to deprime 9mm. Or perhaps tape some cardboard in the universal to help center the brass...

[2011redrider]

I'll look into the 6s, thanks.

You may have to buy the case feeder made for 9mm. The one I have is for .380 & 9mm. .40 cases won't drop through so I have the one made for .40 on order. I'd guess the .40 case feeder is to big for 9mm and the cases don't position right.

http://youtu.be/cxGE04PKd2w

Here is a video on the mods needed to the 6s shell plate. I have not ordered one yet, but have seen smile marks on my 9mm rounds.

[JMP]

Based on lots of recommendations I moved the sizing die to position 2 (removed pin) over the primer ram to solve some of the primer problems. It did significantly improve priming. The universal decapper was recommended. But wasn't a good recommendation.

For 9mm, I'd recommend just getting a Dillon sizing/decapping die and just use that. It's a good die. You should be fine as long as the case is centered and it isn't used on something ridiculous like berdan primed 9mm.

[B W E]

If I'm understanding correctly, you're resizing on station 2, and only decapping on station #1? I would suggest resizing and decapping on #1, having a second sizing die on #2 with the pin removed, and the die backed out a couple turns, to keep the case centered. I guess the only reason I suggest this is because its exactly what I do and it works beautifully. You do have to make sure your set screw on the left side of the turret is always tight, as a loose set screw will translate to improperly sized brass. I usually tighten mine after each brass tube empties.

Also, I would HIGHLY suggest if you tumble with walnut, add some NuFinish. Not a lot, just a cap-full or so. Because 9mm is NOT a straight wall, it is tapered, there's quite a bit more pressure needed to resize it. Thus, the NuFinish added in the tumbling stage makes it resize like B U T T E R.

Also, make sure the little arms that keep the cases on the shell plate are tight. If they're loose at all, the centrifugal force of indexing will cause your case to move outward, screwing things up.

[ElDub1950]

If I'm understanding correctly, you're resizing on station 2, and only decapping on station #1? I would suggest resizing and decapping on #1, having a second sizing die on #2 with the pin removed, and the die backed out a couple turns, to keep the case centered. I guess the only reason I suggest this is because its exactly what I do and it works beautifully. You do have to make sure your set screw on the left side of the turret is always tight, as a loose set screw will translate to improperly sized brass. I usually tighten mine after each brass tube empties.

Also, I would HIGHLY suggest if you tumble with walnut, add some NuFinish. Not a lot, just a cap-full or so. Because 9mm is NOT a straight wall, it is tapered, there's quite a bit more pressure needed to resize it. Thus, the NuFinish added in the tumbling stage makes it resize like B U T T E R.

Also, make sure the little arms that keep the cases on the shell plate are tight. If they're loose at all, the centrifugal force of indexing will cause your case to move outward, screwing things up.

Yeah, based on this discussion, I'll be ordering another resizing die. The universal one won't do the job with the loadmaster and 9mm. I'm sure it's fine in other applications.

I'm not using a tumbler right now, but someone else mentioned some case lube make a big difference. Technically not required with the carbide dies, but it should smooth things out a little.

[B W E]

Yeah, based on this discussion, I'll be ordering another resizing die. The universal one won't do the job with the loadmaster and 9mm. I'm sure it's fine in other applications.

I'm not using a tumbler right now, but someone else mentioned some case lube make a big difference. Technically not required with the carbide dies, but it should smooth things out a little.

but you are cleaning your brass before reloading them, right?

[ElDub1950]

but you are cleaning your brass before reloading them, right?

Yeah, using salt, vinegar, soap and water soak and wash. They're not pretty, but they're clean. I need to get a tumbler though.

[EclipseDS]

Don't vinegar reacts with brass, makes them brittle, thus unsafe?