Lee Universal Decapping Die .. Not so Universal?

[ElDub1950]

Don't vinegar reacts with brass, makes them brittle, thus unsafe?

I'm sure it could over a long period of time but I've seen it recommended a lot and for handgun calibers I think it's fine for several reloads.

[captain igloo]

I was using the lee universal decaping die on my LNL progressive Hornady. I also got the same problem with the 9 mm case. The pin of the decaping die was not always perfectly lined up with the flash hole.
After a lot of twicking, I noticed the hole of the 9mm is smaller than other case. I was also decaping 38 special flawlessly. It seems 9mm hole (at least on mine) was not always perfectly centered either. To solve the problem, I made the tip of the decaping pin pointier so it will get into the flash hole easier. I used a sharpening stone. It helped somewhat but as soon as your tip is slightly bent, it will catch on the case.
I bought a hornady universal decapping die. The design seems better since you just need to replace the pin instead of the full rod as with the Lee. Also the decapping pin can be set loose so it will get into the flash hole if it is not perfectly lined up.

hopes it helps.

[bzzz]

Can't say I've had too many issues with mine. I run it on my 650 for just decap ping and the case feeder can't keep up. I bent the first pin on round 7 but now that I have spares on hand I've decapped 5k rounds without an issue.

I run the same setup on my 650 and just snapped the pin on a tightly crimped 9mm case. Prior to it snapping, just decapped 1000 x .45ACP and 700 x 9mm. I ordered more decapping pins from fsreloading.

Prior to decapping on the 650, I used the universal decapping die on a lee turret press. It worked pretty good as long as I had the correct shell holder. I decapped .38/.357, 9mm, .45ACP, and .40.

When using the Lee Universal Decapping Die, i keep wrenches nearby in case the decapping rod slips up due to a tightly seated/heavily crimped primer. It's very easy to reposition the decapping rod with the wrenches at hand.

[ElDub1950]

Prior to decapping on the 650, I used the universal decapping die on a lee turret press. It worked pretty good as long as I had the correct shell holder.

That seems to be the key. The multi purpose shell plate on the loadmaster combined with the universal decapping die ends up with too much of a lack of precision.

[oso grande]

Why not just decap with the sizing die as intended? As far as being "universal", I can assure you it is not. It is not wide enough to even fit larger rifle cartridges.

Mine works fine on 500 S&W and 45-70. Maybe Lee makes 2 different sizes.
I think bigger is better because the large case centers itself better.

[someoneeasy]

I'll look into the 6s, thanks.

You may have to buy the case feeder made for 9mm. The one I have is for .380 & 9mm. .40 cases won't drop through so I have the one made for .40 on order. I'd guess the .40 case feeder is to big for 9mm and the cases don't position right.

I have the case feeder for both, just need to get the adjustment down for it.

[ElDub1950]

I have the case feeder for both, just need to get the adjustment down for it.

I haven't gotten my case feeder to work with .380s. Works great for 9mm. The final thing that got mine working was using STP on the case feeder rod. Oil didn't work. The STP viscosity is apparently thick enough that it provides the right amount of friction.

I've dubbed Lee's engineering as "cheesy genius"! The simplicity of their design is genius .. the cheesy part is that way to much of the functioning depends on having just the right amount of friction between plastic parts and metal parts as in the case feeder and the bullet feeder.

And depends on precision movements of plastic parts being pushed around by other plastic parts as in the primer system.

And plastic parts bumping into a specific sequence of bumps and grooves like the indexing function.

And maybe the most genius and most cheesy is maybe the 2 bumps in the cast frame positioned just right so that a plastic tab on the primer trough knocks against them as the ram travels up and that jiggles the primer tray, shaking them up a little to help make sure they don't jam up at the mouth of the trough.

And don't get me started on using a light switch chain to operate the powder drop LOL

Maybe I'm spoiled from 15 years in a previous career maintaining and later teaching techs to maintain high speed precision electro-mechanical systems.

I know I didn't spend $1500 or $2000 for the Loadmaster ( actually I didn't spend anything. My friend BonnieB bought it when she found she couldn't tolerate the the manual intervention required for my single stage press. So she bought it and is keeping it at my house so I can help set it up. And I get the benefit of using it. ) but some things could have been made much better without too much additional cost.

I've worked out most of the issues. Have a .40 case feeder coming in and some replacement fingers for the .40 bullet feeder .. works great with 9mm but drops every .40 bullet. Ran ~200 9mm last night (after I broke the decapping pin) and it went ok, except I still had 5 missing primers. I think I can go back through all the tips and tricks I've found and hopefully reduce the missing primers down to 1 or 2%.

But it's been a fun challenge some of the time and frustrating at other times.

[EclipseDS]

I'm using the case feeder for .40 on 9mm. I don't think it's the size of the tube/feeder but rather the height of it. I used to fiddle with the height every time I change caliber and while easy enough, it got old pretty fast. I found a sweet spot but then, found that the slider is not high enough to support .40 cases. This resulted in tipped cases every so often.

I have one of those plastic shims that I cut and put on top of the slider. This works really good and stopped me from fiddling with the case feeder.

I use dry lube with mine on every moving parts, including the primer chute. It was actually for bike chains. Dirt doesn't accumulate. If it works for bikes costing several thousands, it must be good lol.

And you're right, it depends on proper alignment and adjustment on each and every moving parts. Also, just pulling on the lever won't cut it. Every pull of the lever down, watch the primer go down as well. Instead of using the bullet feeder, feed it manually so you can check the powder level as you drop one in there.

[stranded1980]

I love my Lee Universal Decapping Die, and it's worked for every boxer primed case I have found. However, I found it works best in a single stage press with a shell holder, as opposed to a progressive press with a shell plate.

I'd personally recommend depriming on a single stage before cleaning anyway, since I've found that depriming usually results in some residual dirt/grime/powder, even after cleaning and it's easier to clean & lube a single stage than it is a progressive. It will also help clean the primer pockets this way (not entirely necessary for pistol, but still nice).

I use a Dillon SDB & a Hornady LNL AP for loading ammo, but for case preparation, I deprime with the Lee Universal Deprimer on my cheap Lee Challenger Single Stage press. I also got the Lee shell holder set which covers all the usual suspects of brass finds at the range. Have deprimed thousands of cases this way, and I've only bent 2 decapping pins so far on the singe stage. Now when I used on the progressive press....

Good luck!

[ElDub1950]

Yeah, I tried my Universal decapper to my Lee single stage and it works perfectly. I'm sure because the shell holder is better than the LM shell plate.

[stranded1980]

I don't have the Lee Load-Master, but no doubt it's like my Hornady LNL AP. It's not that shell holder is better than the LM shell plate, just not advisable for the Lee Universal Deprimer. The resizing portion of the resizing/depriming die helps line the case up with depriming pin, which makes up for the play in the shell holder plate.

I put my single stage press on a portable table so I can deprime in my backyard (depriming doesn't require that much force). I then use the cheapo Harbor Freight dual drum rock tumbler with stainless steel pins for cleaning, so the unfavorable dust from reloading is kept to a minimum. Also, I think in the long run this will keep my dies nicer, and progressive press cleaner. After depriming 500 cases, my single stage press will be filthy. BUT, it only takes 3 minutes to wipe it down, and put new grease on the ram. At a good pace, I can deprime one shell every one or two seconds. For me, the benefits out weigh the extra investment of time.