Dillon 650 Frustration

[KShack]

Ive been reloading 40 cal so far with great success. But recently I converted the machine to 556/223 and have been having some trouble....

First of all, im using H4895 powder and its been releasing about half the charge and then, on the down stroke, dispensing the rest over the reloader. I heard it was called bridging and caused my static electricity. Either way, its being remedied FOR NOW by lightly banging on the reloader during the powder discharge.

Second, Ive been using CCI #41 primers strictly for 556 and they seem to get stuck on the primer tray. No real remedy so far except manually putting on at a time on the primer station.

Third, I feel like I have my dies correctly set but the case mouth still barely flares so when a bullet is being seated, sometimes it tears a piece of the mouth down rendering the cartridge useless. Ill also have the occasional round that has the neck pressed down giving a nice buldge on the case which, again, renders it useless.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

[bigdawg86]

I have no clue about progressive presses, but I'm pretty sure you don't flair bottle neck cartridges. You should get and expander ball that is sized correctly for your application. Boat tail bullets are forgiving and seat no problem... Flat base bullets need the right neck size or else you will collapse the neck / shoulder... And go slow.

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[XxWoodsHunterxX]

Ive been reloading 40 cal so far with great success. But recently I converted the machine to 556/223 and have been having some trouble....

First of all, im using H4895 powder and its been releasing about half the charge and then, on the down stroke, dispensing the rest over the reloader. I heard it was called bridging and caused my static electricity. Either way, its being remedied FOR NOW by lightly banging on the reloader during the powder discharge.

Second, Ive been using CCI #41 primers strictly for 556 and they seem to get stuck on the primer tray. No real remedy so far except manually putting on at a time on the primer station.

Third, I feel like I have my dies correctly set but the case mouth still barely flares so when a bullet is being seated, sometimes it tears a piece of the mouth down rendering the cartridge useless. Ill also have the occasional round that has the neck pressed down giving a nice buldge on the case which, again, renders it useless.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

From my experience the case mouth shouldn't be flared on rifle cartridges at least mine done when I reload now this is MY EXPERIENCE not everyone else's. my powder die just touches the top of the case during powder drop. Banging on the powder bar is not a smart idea you will get different drops each time and you don't want to have a heavy load. On my powder measure I remove the clear tube and polish the base on the inside, helps with static and allows powder to meter better.


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[XxWoodsHunterxX]

I forgot try and use a chamfer and taper the inside if the cartridge


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[KShack]

Ive been using some flat based projectiles to test with but will use boat tail with the cannelure when I start doing quantity. That could explain the sometimes crushed neck.

How does one polish the powder measure?

On my powder measure I remove the clear tube and polish the base on the inside, helps with static and allows powder to meter better.

[KShack]

im using Dillon dies so the seating and crimping dies aren't together

[XxWoodsHunterxX]

Ive been using some flat based projectiles to test with but will use boat tail with the cannelure when I start doing quantity. That could explain the sometimes crushed neck.

How does one polish the powder measure?

You are droping 6-8 times the powder in a rifle cartridge than a pistol so give it a few seconds to drop. Also, and probably more important, at the top and bottom of the stroke, make sure that you end it sharply, as in hard. This little bump makes the powder not bridge and therefore more consistent weights.

Here is an example I don't want to pull mine apart but polish the inside base.

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[mbauer67]

Are you using the rifle powder bar in the powder measure, also how are you prepping/ trimming the brass?

[KShack]

Yes and haven't had to trim yet since all my brass is once fired

[bruce381]

ball powders meter better and yes wait a few seconds for powder to drop

[XxWoodsHunterxX]

What tools did you use to polish your powder measure?

Dremel????

Yea just a polish wheel on a dremel


Charles

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[XxWoodsHunterxX]

I bought a aftermarket billet one and the tolorence is tight but a pain to get in and out of machine. That's the only thing I've found.


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[RacerX7]

ball powders meter better and yes wait a few seconds for powder to drop

I recently started loading 223. I've loaded thousands pistol rounds (9mm, 40s&w, 45 ACP). When I started loading 223 i was spilling powder all over the place. I found waiting a few seconds when charging allowed the powder to drop, corrected the issue. I'm using a dillon 650 and imr 8208 . The 8208 meters very well in my 650.

[Germz]

Ive been reloading 40 cal so far with great success. But recently I converted the machine to 556/223 and have been having some trouble....

First of all, im using H4895 powder and its been releasing about half the charge and then, on the down stroke, dispensing the rest over the reloader. I heard it was called bridging and caused my static electricity. Either way, its being remedied FOR NOW by lightly banging on the reloader during the powder discharge.

Second, Ive been using CCI #41 primers strictly for 556 and they seem to get stuck on the primer tray. No real remedy so far except manually putting on at a time on the primer station.

Third, I feel like I have my dies correctly set but the case mouth still barely flares so when a bullet is being seated, sometimes it tears a piece of the mouth down rendering the cartridge useless. Ill also have the occasional round that has the neck pressed down giving a nice buldge on the case which, again, renders it useless.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

Do you mean when you're doing .40? Because uh....yeah you dont flare bottlenecks.

[mbauer67]

Yes and haven't had to trim yet since all my brass is once fired

There's the problem, if you are loading for an AR, you must trim every time. And make sure the powder die is adjusted properly so the powder measure is going through the full range of travel