Complete Reload Noob Help Wanted.

[GeeBee49]

With dry tumblers, do you have to use a media separator after or is shake (off debris) and go an option?

I used a plastic perforated colander that I found in the kitchen. I had one of those large canisters that three kinds of popcorn came in. The colander fit the canister perfectly. I would remove the barrel from the tumbler and dump it into the colander and shake it until all of the media was in the canister. It sounds a lot more tedious than it really is. And again, I did this outside in the open air.

Or, you can just buy one of those separators and be done with it.

[Donny1]

What would be the easiest, cost-effective method to clean brass (reloading about 50 rounds per day/2-3 times a week) I see the dish soap/hot water/salt vinegar method the cheapest, but if I wanted to use a machine or gadget is ultrasonic cleaner cheapest for reloading small amounts here and there?

Some use the wet tumbler from HF but I have never used one.

[jimmykan]

Here is an example of why I chose this hand press. Portability.

https://youtu.be/7kHgzkWoS64

Can't do this with mounted press.


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Using that beam scale in even a gentle breeze would be a nightmare.

Outdoors, I would stick with measuring charges volumetrically, either with dippers or powder dropper with preset volumes (can use Lee's VMD chart).

Oh, or an electronic scale with a wind cover.

[Donny1]

With dry tumblers, do you have to use a media separator after or is shake (off debris) and go an option?

Mine is a wire mesh trash basket and a plastic pan I got a the Dollar store, $2 + tax.

[CheapBloke]

Thank you all for the tumbler answers.

All of those gadgets are always an option, but I notice now that there's a definite equipment creep and you've moved away from a basic setup to test the waters to a dedicated setup with the corresponding demand in garage space.

So what exactly are your goals? Do you really want a cheap setup with minimal space, and no major cash commitment if you decide to stop? Or are you dedicated to reloading & you want equipment that will work with most production levels?

My main goal is to be able to load 38spc/357mag for range/target practice loads. Maybe move to 9mm/45 if I am successful with loading by hand. I have no intention in reloading those fancy loads or anything other than what can be used at simple range time shooting.
I have very minimal space so I chose this hand press. I am not looking for the top of the line equipment, but if the price is right, I would get them. I am just looking for the minimal necessity equipment and gadgets needed to reload a round. This way if I do realize that reloading is not right for me, I didn't spend too much on a failed project. And if I am satisfied with reloading, with all information I gather from y'all from present to future, I may learn which parts I need to upgrade, replace, or fix.
Also, I want to learn the knowledge and basic understanding in reloading as I feel it is part of the holistic gunownership, and even if I fail at reloading at least I have the foundational knowledge in reloading.

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[Donny1]

Even though most say you don't need lube on straight walled brass I prefer it and I bet using a hand press it would definitely be helpful to cut down the effort. I use pure lanolin mixed with 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle, spray lightly and let dry, the alcohol dries and leaves the lube on the cases. Been using the first batch I mixed up for over a year now. Started using it for .223 but it just makes the effort less all around.

You can always find a way to go cheaper and sometimes better than store bought gun stuff. The markup on case lube, gun oil, solvents is ridiculous.

If I buy tumbling media marketed for cleaning cases it's way more expensive than buying reptile bedding, all the same, crushed walnut shells. There's always a substitute. Gun oil, Mobil 1, lifetime supply for $5.

[CheapBloke]

Even though most say you don't need lube on straight walled brass I prefer it and I bet using a hand press it would definitely be helpful to cut down the effort. I use pure lanolin mixed with 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle, spray lightly and let dry, the alcohol dries and leaves the lube on the cases. Been using the first batch I mixed up for over a year now. Started using it for .223 but it just makes the effort less all around.



You can always find a way to go cheaper and sometimes better than store bought gun stuff. The markup on case lube, gun oil, solvents is ridiculous.



If I buy tumbling media marketed for cleaning cases it's way more expensive than buying reptile bedding, all the same, crushed walnut shells. There's always a substitute. Gun oil, Mobil 1, lifetime supply for $5.

Since I will be doing by hand, I may just use any and all steps to ease the reloading process. Thanks for the info on lubrication.

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[Donny1]

Thank you all for the tumbler answers.



My main goal is to be able to load 38spc/357mag for range/target practice loads. Maybe move to 9mm/45 if I am successful with loading by hand. I have no intention in reloading those fancy loads or anything other than what can be used at simple range time shooting.
I have very minimal space so I chose this hand press. I am not looking for the top of the line equipment, but if the price is right, I would get them. I am just looking for the minimal necessity equipment and gadgets needed to reload a round. This way if I do realize that reloading is not right for me, I didn't spend too much on a failed project.
Also, I want to learn the knowledge and basic understanding in reloading as I feel it is part of the holistic gunownership, and even if I fail at reloading at least I have the foundational knowledge in reloading.

Again, look at the Lee Turret press or a single stage. I made many thousands of rounds with mine, learned a lot, now I'm shopping for the Dillon 550C if they ever get back in stock.

I can't see ever getting rid of the Turret press though, good for working up loads, using it to deprime or whatever. There will always be a use for it.

[CheapBloke]

Again, look at the Lee Turret press or a single stage. I made many thousands of rounds with mine, learned a lot, now I'm shopping for the Dillon 550C if they ever get back in stock.



I can't see ever getting rid of the Turret press though, good for working up loads, using it to deprime or whatever. There will always be a use for it.

It is space I have issue with. If I had a dedicated space for reloading like I see in so many of y'alls pics, I would have started this thread with ..so... i got a dillon...lol.

The perfect powder measure is also mounted so decided to sell that on ebay. And guessing I need scales and those volume spoons.

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[GeeBee49]

I know progressive presses are reliable because everyone who owns one says so.
Being old school like I am I preferred the step by step method. Powder charges were my main concern and after charging fifty rounds I visually inspected the loading block full of cases to make sure all levels were the same. Obviously an empty case or a double charge would be easy to spot.
I did not choose a manual press over a progressive press it just happened to be the first one I got. After getting used to it I saw no reason to upgrade.

[BajaJames83]

while its not optinal the hand press will work just fine.
Do things in batches....

1) Size and deprime a few hundred or so (put them in a loading block)
2) Prime you have the parts to do it on the hand press but you could do it much faster with a hand primer $20 or so
3) Charge a bunch in the loading blocks
4) Seat bullets to depth (this is where you just have to be steady to make sure you dont spill powder but its not that hard)
5) Crimp

[ghilligan]

All of those gadgets are always an option, but I notice now that there's a definite equipment creep and you've moved away from a basic setup to test the waters to a dedicated setup with the corresponding demand in garage space.

Yes, beware of "equipment creep"!

I went from testing the waters with a $30 Lee Loader and 50-odd .38 Special cases that I slipped into my pocket at the range, to over $2,000 in dies, presses, chronographs, scales, measuring tools, tumblers, annealing equipment, a dedicated workbench in the garage with lights and fans, and a dedicated closet and a few cabinets for projectiles, powders, and thousands of primers in a matter of a few months (COVID-19 lockdown and Amazon had a lot to do with this!).

I was reading about reloading for about a year before I started, but was intimidated by everyone that told me I needed to start with a $750 Dillon press or I'd be doomed to failure!

If you're reloading for a revolver, you can pocket your brass easily and it doesn't get as dirty as with auto-loaders which fling brass into the dirt 10 feet away. You really don't need a case cleaning setup yet.

After a set of dies, and before a case tumbler, I'd recommend a decent scale to verify the Lee dipper quantities you'll be scooping. After you get a "feel" for scooping a particular powder, you may not need the scale, but I've found that each powder "scoops" a little differently, and the manner and force at which you scoop affects the load by a lot, like .5 grains or more if you're inconsistent with your technique or try different powders.

For around $35, you can get the cheapest Lee powder dispenser. It works surprisingly well, and is even a favorite among some precision rifle reloaders with $$$ budgets. It is accurate and repeatable, +/- .1 grain of most powders... and it really costs less than $35! It's faster and more accurate than scooping... but again, you'll want a scale to check and confirm your settings.

You'll want a set of calipers to measure cases and confirm bullet seating depths when you're setting up your dies, and a Harbor Freight set is good enough for revolver tolerances. Heck, in a pinch, you can confirm your cartridge lengths by dropping them into your revolver cylinder. Between my multi-fired cases and random range pick-ups, I've yet to find a .38 Special or .357 case that's out of spec and needs trimming, so I'm pretty sure you can hold off on a case trimmer for a while.

I've definitely gone down the equipment rabbit hole with my precision rifle relaoads, but find it refreshing to return to the simplicity and looser tolerances of .38 Special reloads.

[bohoki]

yea read some reloading guides get familiar and lose the fears and mystery

https://archive.org/details/LymanReloadingHandbook48thEdition2002Ocr_201902

you really dont need to "clean" your cases you can just wipe the side walls with some steel wool

i have a harbor freight tumbler but its not needed

my single stage press has the little arm so i prime mine on my press one by one its slow i have a little glass ashtray to hold primers

a little digital jewelry scale that has "grain measurement" as an option is very handy it has a little bar for a check weight i zero it out on a case then charge the case with my perfect powder measure tweak the little screw a bit dump it back in and repeat till i get my charge right


i also cast bullet on a coleman stove with a cast iron pan but that is a bit more effort than you would like i'm sure


you can read this post it has good info

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1538906

[kcheung2]

If your goal is minimal necessary equipment then you don't need a tumbler/sonic cleaner nor a trimmer. To clean dirty brass you can toss them into a jar, splash some dishwashing soap, stir, air dry. That's it. Or get a soapy rag, a quick wipe of each individual case, done. Or the easiest of all: don't clean the brass at all. Yes, clean brass is optional. It will work fine with dirty brass. Besides, it's likely your spent brass was never that dirty to begin with.

Likewise, straight walled cases don't stretch as much as necked cases. I've never had to trim my pistol cases even after many firings.

Now if you decide to stick with it, then definitely buy those things. After a better press, of course. But I think that the space requirement is really a non-issue. I think a turret press & most of the optional gadgets can fit inside one of those 5000-sheet ream paper boxes. The big pumpkin-looking dry tumblers & most sonic cleaners are bulky, but I have an old Harbor Freight rock tumbler gadget that's compact & lasted me for at least 10,000 rounds. It's the size of a large Kleenix box. It's not optimal for large volume cleaning, but for 100-300 rounds a week it's fine. A bonus: it works for both dry tumbling or wet. I use it for dry tumbling only.

[Donny1]

Once things get beyond basic the Chronograph is necessary. I actually got mine for my PCP air guns and Compound Bow but soon realized it's the only way you really know the details on what your loading/shooting.