Complete Reload Noob Help Wanted.

[jimmykan]

Thank you. And the black piece is with the trimmer?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

The black piece holds the case, in conjunction with a trimming shell holder. See below:

[ysr_racer]

Don't forget a powder scale and dial calipers to measure seating depth (over all length), as well as a tumbler to clean your brass.

[AtomicOrange]

Before you start reloading read a coupe of reloading manuals, like the Lee manual. They contain lots of good information and will help to ensure safety.

As mentioned above, that is a case trimmer. I always trim all of my used cases once, including straight-walled revolver cartridges, for a consistent depth and roll crimp.

[CheapBloke]

Alright. Got it, thanks all for these good information.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[Donny1]

The powder measure is actually very accurate but DO NOT go by the marks on it for any type of charge measurement. You must use the correct dipper/powder combo or a scale to verify what the powder measure is dropping.

Once you make a change to the powder measure you need to cycle the handle several times before it changes what drops. Take some time to practice measuring powder over and over. Making a mistake charging a case is what can get you hurt.

They are out of stock right now but the Lee Classic Turret Press is $125 at Midway, cheaper on ebay sometimes. Takes very little space and will let you learn as you go, or get a single stage even cheaper.

A hand press will get old in a hurry.

[Christopher761]

First, get a reloading manual. Atomic Orange's suggestion is great.

Second, read it.

Third, do not attempt reloading without a scale (of some kind) to verify your load. Too much powder: Kaboom. Too Little powder: bullet stuck in barrel, and next round causes kaboom.

Be safe.

[steelholder]

Read a reloading manual, it explains how to reload and why certain things are done. Buy a lee classic turret or a single stage press and the dies for 357. Research the difference between single stage, turret and progressive presses. You'll be better off with any of those than what you have there.

[CheapBloke]

Thanks guys.
For those that keeps saying about getting mounted reloading equipment, please understand that I do know those are far better options, but I have very limited space and time at home for my personal effects.

Also, I want to take this reloading with me on outdoor in-state vacations/outings with family. I doubt there is any reloading equipment that will allow that unless you have a camping vehicle.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[the_tunaman]

Just realize that reloading isn’t something to take casually or lightly - it must be done with extreme precision and prejudice, else catastrophe awaits.

[CheapBloke]

Digital Caliper, digital scale, load data, lee 4 die set, possibly a separate priming tool, tumbler (dry or wet) or ultrasonic cleaner. Then after collecting those then look for primers, powder, and projectile.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[Cowboy T]

Actually, I would suggest your caliper be analog, i. e. the old-school dial type. No batteries to go dead on you. I use Lyman's caliper set. It's affordable and works well.

Same with a balance-beam scale. I use the RCBS 10-10, but the RCBS 502 and 505 are also excellent, and less expensive, choices. No batteries to go Tango Uniform. Once I have my powder measure set up for the proper charge, as verified by that scale, then I just get to work. Lee powder measures are actually quite consistent.

I use a dry tumbler, with a 50/50 mix of treated corn cob and crushed walnut cleaning media. Works great, gets my cases really clean and shiny. However, just straight walnut or corn cob will also do a good job. I tried ultrasonic cleaning, and while it works, it's just not worth the effort and time.

Hand primer is a must. Lee makes good ones. I think Frankford Arsenal also makes a pretty affordable one.

You really only need a three-die set, and it should be a so-called "carbide" set if you're talking about handgun cases. The critical ones are as follows.

1.) deprime/resize die
2.) flaring/powder-charging die
3.) bullet seating/crimping die

The fourth that often comes with Lee sets is called the "Factory Crimp Die". I virtually never use it and only do so for certain special corner-cases, all involving my own cast bullets. If you're not casting your own bullets, then the F.C.D. is not needed.

And most definitely get at least two reloading manuals and read/study them! My first ones were Lee's "Modern Reloading" and Lyman's 49th Edition (the 50th Edition is now out).

You will not need to trim handgun cases. By the time you might need to do that, the case will have already served its useful life and started splitting, thus ready for the metal recycler, anyway.

[sofbak]

Please note that reloading inside your dwelling with young children (under age 12) is not a good combination. Lead in fired cases, vapor-deposited on the brass from the primers is a substantial health issue for young humans-possibly adults too. Airborn and contact contamination control will be a big challenge.

If you can do it outdoors or in the garage that might mitigate the issue some. Washing your hands immediately after loading activities, wearing a tyvek lab coat that stays in the loading "room" would too.

[CheapBloke]

Please note that reloading inside your dwelling with young children (under age 12) is not a good combination. Lead in fired cases, vapor-deposited on the brass from the primers is a substantial health issue for young humans-possibly adults too. Airborn and contact contamination control will be a big challenge.



If you can do it outdoors or in the garage that might mitigate the issue some. Washing your hands immediately after loading activities, wearing a tyvek lab coat that stays in the loading "room" would too.

I don't plan to do near my kids, thus having a hand press is better for my current situation.

Not trying to load 100s per hr. Maybe like 50 in a day. Just something to do when I am allowed "free time" by my wife and kids.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[GeeBee49]

Years ago when I started reloading I was very fortunate in two ways. First, I was given a basic set-up by someone who bought it new and never really got into it. I was given a Lee Turret press, a powder measure, a manual, a set of 357/38 dies and a scale. Second, my BIL at the time had years of experience and set everything up and walked me through the steps. This was before the internet so I couldn't watch videos but having someone sitting next to me showing me what to do and answering all my dumb questions was invaluable. He also gave me calipers, a powder trickler, a case trimmer, and a bullet puller hammer.
So, like I said, I was very fortunate when I started reloading.

[ghilligan]

My "gateway drug" to reloading was the "Lee Loader" kit for .38 Special.

I decided to order one for $30 after seeing a video on YouTube of an old-timer reloading .45-70 Gov't on a tree stump out in the woods.

I loaded my first 10 rounds for my 5-round revolver in about an hour, and was hooked. With a bit of practice, I could form and load one round in about 3 minutes. A hand press and dies are a luxury you don't actually need. Just the Lee Loader kit and a hammer.

You don't really needa case tumbler, either. It's nice to have, but not necessary, especially for straight-walled revolver cartridges. If the cases need cleaning, you can wipe them out with a bottle brush, or a piece of rag and a wooden stick! They don't need to look shiny and new, especially for a revolver.

Your setup makes perfect sense for loading a few rounds for a revolver. A great SHTF/backwoods survival kind of tool.
It, or a Lee Loader, would be madness to use to load a few hundred rounds of 9mm or .223 for a semi-auto.

And I don't see the need for getting a paper reloading manual these days; all the information is online. I ordered 5 different reloading manuals (for well over $100) because everyone told me they are "step 1" and essential, but only referred to them once or twice. YMMV