Reloading Primer Seating issue

[Fishslayer]

I best tool is the Dillon Super Swager for removing the crimp or stakes.

^^^ This. If you're going to be reloading any quantity of .223/5.56 it's the gear you want.

[kcheung2]

As others have said those are the infamous crimped primer pockets. A circular ring is stamped around the pocket which displaces the metal & prevents the primer from popping out. I use a countersink bit in a power drill to cut it. Spinning it for half a second is all it takes.

https://www.amazon.com/SHANK-DEGREE-FLUTE-CHATTERLESS-COUNTERSINK/dp/B002J70VRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481781259&sr=8-2&keywords=countersink+1%2F4+x+82

or

https://www.amazon.com/Timberline-608-750-Titanium-Coated-Countersink/dp/B001UTYZD8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481781405&sr=8-4&keywords=countersink+1%2F4+x+82

[JMP]

I prefer to use a powered chamfer/deburring tool with about a 90 degree head; that lets the primer guide right in. That's an alternative to swaging. Also, I do really like the RCBS hand primer, but it's not made well for changing out the shellholder. I'd recommend getting a dedicated shellholder for each priming tool, or get the universal tool for your smaller rifle cases. I use the universal for .223-.308 size bases, then keep a dedicated primers for Lapua and CheyTac brass. Then, keep a dedicated feeder tray for each type of primer you use. Then, you are ready to prime just about anything without any fussing around.

[stilly]

Wolf gold is 100% crimped. So from the picture below your brass is on the left and what you want is on the right.

Do you realize what you just said? You posted a picture that someone took and said that was the WRONG way to do it, and you told him that was how he needed to do it...

Although I agree, use a countersink bit from HF in the 1/2" size or whatever and just touch the pockets with it for a second or so...

[roysroyce]

Thanks guys, great info... I don't have a swag tool and found some (JMP listed above) that you COULD use an RCBS debur/Chamfer tool. I used this w/ the first 15 cases that I'll be reloading. It worked perfectly. I just gave it some light turns in the primer pocket and it provided a nice bevel in the pocket. Complete difference when putting the primer in. (seated like a champ).

I will probably pick up one of those dillion swag tools.

[LeadFarmer74]

Do you realize what you just said? You posted a picture that someone took and said that was the WRONG way to do it, and you told him that was how he needed to do it...

I do realize that but I couldn't find a comparison picture with a crimp vs removed. So although it wasn't perfect I think the point still got across.

[roysroyce]

I did get the idea LeadFarmer and Stilly... but glad you brought it up Stilly... I took a second look and now I see/realize that I have to be careful not to take too much off of the pocket when I'm ridding crimps.

How might I know how much is too much? I'm guessing if I took off A LOT then eventually the primer would seat, but also guessing there's a middle ground where I could take off too much and the primer would still seat.

what issues might I incur if this happens? Squib?

[wbunning]

And remember-- you only have to ream/swage the primer pockets ONCE on your brass. You are not going to re-crimp the PP in your own reloading process.

[AandO]

For what it is worth. I only reload range pick ups that do have a crimp. This is my assurance of the history of the brass.
.
I prefer having to decrimp....

[roysroyce]

Good notes guys... AandO/wBunning... True that if it's crimped then I can be assured it's only once fired... (or FAIRLY sure)

[stilly]

I do realize that but I couldn't find a comparison picture with a crimp vs removed. So although it wasn't perfect I think the point still got across.

LoL. okay.

I ALMOST PCPAINTED it in an attempt to FIFY. But then I thought, maybe there is something here I am not aware of. LoL.