Primer question

[Julios]

what about rem 7 1/2?

[jericho89]

being someone who has loaded tens of thousands of rounds of 223 using regular cci 400 and Winchester small rifle primers and never having a slamfire in a semi-auto rifle I do not put that much stock into the you MUST use cci 41. That being said the 41's as well as wolf small rifle magnum primers are the same composition as the standard small rifle primers just with a thicker cup.

The Remington 7.5 primers are standard small rifle primers that have been used in AR's. DO NOT use the 6.5 primers, it is not a slam fire issue but rather a piercing of the primer cup and possible fire cutting of your bolt.

[waveslayer]

being someone who has loaded tens of thousands of rounds of 223 using regular cci 400 and Winchester small rifle primers and never having a slamfire in a semi-auto rifle I do not put that much stock into the you MUST use cci 41. That being said the 41's as well as wolf small rifle magnum primers are the same composition as the standard small rifle primers just with a thicker cup.

The Remington 7.5 primers are standard small rifle primers that have been used in AR's. DO NOT use the 6.5 primers, it is not a slam fire issue but rather a piercing of the primer cup and possible fire cutting of your bolt.

Amen! Issues arise when you don't seat the primers all the way.

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns

[Julios]

Good info, taking notes over here lol..

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[Bill Steele]

ok cool,good info!.. been too few online forums and youtube vids, it seens people prefer cci over others,i was just wondering if it was because better brand,maybe better quality, or maybe cheaper,i bought few boxes of rem. for few more .cents more then cci,they didnt have any thats why i when with rem.

Remington in my experience are excellent primers, very high quality control. I understand why the packing engineer designed the boxes the way they do, but primers coming out on their edge just adds a little time to each primer tube load, plus they always cost more (the main reason I don't use them, cheap old retired guy ).

CCI, also has top quality control, I like them because their cups don't have any burrs that hang up in my Dillon primer tubes. I loaded tens of thousands of Winchester and always loved them, but started having enough problems with their LPP and LRP, I finally gave up.

[Julios]

LPP, LRP?

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[Bill Steele]

LPP, LRP?

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LPP - Large Pistol Primer (45 Auto, 10mm, etc.)

LRP - Large Rifle Primer (243 Win, 308 Win, 30-06, etc.)

[Julios]

Ahh,ok got it ..thanks for the info..

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[jericho89]

I have used the following primers in a Dillon 650 loading 223 without issues... CCI, Winchester, Remington, Federal, Tula, and Wolf. Granted my Dillon is one from the 80's and things are worn in and seem to be working well together. I liked the Tula's because they were really cheap and worked real well, but thanks to Obama we can not get those any more.

That being said I can not remember a failure to fire with any of the different primers or any issues with any of the primers. The Remington's are packed very compact and you can store a lot more in a small space. Federals are the worst with wasted space in packing.

The worst thing you can do is not seat your primers all the way in. I watched a video of fails and one was an idiot pulling the trigger on an ar and hearing click. He rapidly racked another round in and the same thing. He kept doing it until a round went off on the table next to him. What happens when you do not seat a primer in all the way on the press is that your pull of the trigger sets the primer. A second full hit of the firing pin will set off the round, BUT the first strike is capable of creating a hang fire which can cause serious health issues to the operator.

[Julios]

What's the best way to adjust/test a good seated primer before seating the primer?

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[stilly]

Wow this thread took off...

You look at it. Your primer should be FLUSH with the bottom of the case. Your reloading books should have told you that. If they do not mention that, make a note and ***** at them for it. You should have a FEEL for how well it is in. There is no real testing unless you have some weird j/o OCD fetish of some sort. You put the primer in the case and then you charge it all up!

I know The Book of Lee tells you that on Page 59, third paragraph of the NEW 2016 BoLee...

As long as your primer is not sticking out the bottom, it is good to go. I left a few primers sticking out and they fired fine in my 44 mag. I think the only issue really is that if you have primers that are sticking out, it shows the world how noob you are. So don;t let your primers stick out. seat them and make sure they are seated flush or a tad deeper. Flush is all you need though.

As for books, NO! You need more than one book. You should ALWAYS have at least TWO published sources of info on something because that means there is less of a chance of the info being wrong...

[waveslayer]

What's the best way to adjust/test a good seated primer before seating the primer?

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How are you seating the primers? By hand, progressive press? I use a hand tool and my Dillon

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns

[jericho89]

What's the best way to adjust/test a good seated primer before seating the primer?

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Depends on how you are reloading. Most people that use a single stage press hand prime and that is done by feel. On the progressive like the Dillon priming is done when you pull the handle up and push it into the press. So for me it is make sure to ram the lever all the way up and all the way down. The big key is to make sure that what ever tool you use to prime make sure you use the entire travel of the tool.

Safety tip, if you ever pull the trigger and get a click treat it as a hang fire and keep the weapon pointed in a safe direction and wait. Same goes if you pull the trigger and do not get a good bang, stop wait a few seconds and evaluate the situation. Do a search for squibs.

[Bill Steele]

What's the best way to adjust/test a good seated primer before seating the primer?

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You will learn the feel of it.

If you start getting failures to fire, that fire on the second or third try, you likely are not seating your primers deep enough. The anvil (the part of the primer that looks like a radiation sign symbol) is what the cup crushes the primer material against when your firing pin strikes it. The anvil is spaced slightly away from the cup and primer material when it is manufactured. It only snugs up against the primer material when you seat the primer firmly into the primer pocket in the case. The first failure to fire usually helps seat the primer more deeply and also bends the cup closer to the anvil, that is why subsequent tries will usually cause the round to fire. A firing on sequent hammer drops almost always means you didn't seat the primer deep enough.

[Julios]

Depends on how you are reloading. Most people that use a single stage press hand prime and that is done by feel. On the progressive like the Dillon priming is done when you pull the handle up and push it into the press. So for me it is make sure to ram the lever all the way up and all the way down. The big key is to make sure that what ever tool you use to prime make sure you use the entire travel of the tool.

Safety tip, if you ever pull the trigger and get a click treat it as a hang fire and keep the weapon pointed in a safe direction and wait. Same goes if you pull the trigger and do not get a good bang, stop wait a few seconds and evaluate the situation. Do a search for squibs.

Ok,I'll look into that, thanks.. I have a hornady LNL..

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