Take a close look at the Redding T7. You seem to be loading 3 rifle calobers. The T7 will hold dies for three rifle calibers and room for a powder measure. You would not need to remove and reset your dies to switch calibers only switch out the shell holder. This would be a great time saver for you in terms of set up.
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Rounds per hour?
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Stranded has some valid points, don't feel rushed into this process. You'll need a sturdy platform so you don't flip your workbench over the first time you size a case. A reloading clinic is an interesting way to initally evaluate your take on the process.
I've got a 550b and I'm not sure I'd recommend it for precision work. The turret even with the upgraded parts combined with billet and screwed toolheads has too much slop for precision ammo IMO. But it is good for mass productionComment
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Pontoon, Just out of curiosity, where are you located?Comment
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I'm in the Bay Area
stranded1980 thanks for the tips I made some alterations. I want the batter calipers because I already have some cheap and very well reviewed calipers that aren't as good as I would like. I want to just get a good caliper now and be done with it. I'll check out the reloading bench thread. I'll have to read up on hand tools to see how debuting can be done by hand. The video I watched used a machine. I could see getting the 550 press some day as I do have a 9mm (but I rarely shoot it) and I might get into AR15 down the road. The 9mm ammo isn't crazy expensive and I don't shoot much so I'm not as worried about that for now.
gixxnrocket, I'll get a chronograph. I definitely want to know what fps I'm getting. I think I'll hold off on the Redding competition dies for now until I decide if 270 is the caliber I want to stick with or not.Comment
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Lyman Flash Hole Uniformer
B000N8OKGE
This one works pretty well. sometimes there is a bur left in front of the flash hole from the factory. You just need to clean the bur if it is covering the hole, It can defiantly be over used and remove too much material.
For once fired brass after clean/size/trim I'll set the lock collar and give each case a quick pass. I wouldn't count it as necessary, but it just removes another variable to keep your ammo consistent.Comment
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Have you ever reloaded?So you have some more manual reloading kits at about $300-$500 and then more automated ones at $1000+ like the Dillon XL650. What could I expect for rounds per hour out of something like "Hornady Lock N Load Classic Deluxe Reloading Kit" vs the Dillon XL650 (with addons)? Cheaper is nice, but I also have to value my time. I'm not interested in reloading for the cost so much as the ability to make better ammo. Also I'm in an apartment so not sure how on Earth I'm going to find a place for this stuff... Finally do these automated machines have good precision?
Do you know how? Do you even have a book yet?Last edited by stilly; 01-24-2016, 11:44 AM.7 Billion people on the planet. They aint ALL gonna astronauts. Some will get hit by trains...
Need GOOD SS pins to clean your brass? Try the new and improved model...

And remember- 99.9% of the lawyers ruin it for the other .1%...Comment
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I felt the same way initially as well; however, after researching, it seems the Dillon 550B can, and has, been made into a precision reloader by some individuals, David Tubb included. However, it takes some altering. Here's a good thread with individuals that did so. http://forum.accurateshooter.com/thr...-ammo.3881226/
To the original thread starter, I'd take to heart Stilly's question in the above post. If you've never reloaded, the most important thing to buy is a reloading book. Read it a few times, then start buying equipment; Lyman's 49th edition Reloading Handbook is a great start. If you can find a reloading class or a kind individual from your local gun range to give you a walk through of the process and equipment, take them up on it.Comment
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That book is already on the list. Yes I will buy the book first followed by a somewhat modified version of the list I've come up with so far. No I have never reloaded. I've watched a half dozen YouTube videos on how to reload. If I was forced to, I probably could successfully reload with my current knowledge (and a little bit of referencing the internet for charge weights, etc). However I do plan to read up quite a bit more before I actually do so.To the original thread starter, I'd take to heart Stilly's question in the above post. If you've never reloaded, the most important thing to buy is a reloading book. Read it a few times, then start buying equipment; Lyman's 49th edition Reloading Handbook is a great start. If you can find a reloading class or a kind individual from your local gun range to give you a walk through of the process and equipment, take them up on it.Last edited by pontoon; 01-24-2016, 8:56 PM.Comment
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Sounds good! That's pretty much how I got started: read Lyman's 3rd edition of Pistol & Revolver Reloading and watched some youtube videos. Quite a few of them are very informative for the new reloader, and seeing something work is so much more beneficial than having something merely described. Reloading is not difficult, and can be done by anyone of normal intelligence and average patience & focus, so long as they want to learn the safety aspects; you'll do fine.That book is already on the list. Yes I will buy the book first followed by a somewhat modified version of the list I've come up with so far. No I have never reloaded. I've watched a half dozen YouTube videos on how to reload. If I was forced to, I probably could successfully reload with my current knowledge (and a little bit of referencing the internet for charge weights, etc). However I do plan to read up quite a bit more before I actually do so.Comment
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