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What is the minimum distance for zeroing optics
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I zero for the distance that I want to be shooting it at.
A 50 yard zero will get you close at 200, but if you're going to be shooting at 200, you should really be zeroed for that distance and be close at 50.
The reason being is that a small amount of error at 200 will be much smaller at 50, but a small amount of error at 50 will be larger at 200. It's usually best to calculate a projected zero at a short distance (25 or 50 yards), to get on the paper at your intended distance, but you should always verify the zero. I once skipped that stage because I didn't have time, but when I went to the full competition distance, I was entirely off the target and couldn't figure out where I was missing.Last edited by CrippledPidgeon; 05-01-2013, 5:23 PM.Comment
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I wouldn't be shooting a competition with a aim point in the first place.I zero for the distance that I want to be shooting it at.
A 50 yard zero will get you close at 200, but if you're going to be shooting at 200, you should really be zeroed for that distance and be close at 50.
The reason being is that a small amount of error at 200 will be much smaller at 50, but a small amount of error at 50 will be larger at 200. It's usually best to calculate a projected zero at a short distance (25 or 50 yards), to get on the paper at your intended distance, but you should always verify the zero. I once skilled that stage because I didn't have time, but when I went to the full competition distance, I was entirely off the target and couldn't figure out where I was missing.
For that I would still zero at 50 and confirm at 100. Then have a optic with a built in BDC and be good to go. But that's just me.Its not paranoid.....its prepared.
NRA Certified Pistol/Rifle/Shotgun/PPIH/PPOH Instructor | NRA Certified RSO | NRA Life Member | GSSF Life Time Member | Surefire Low Light Instructor | Glock Certified Armorer | Utah CCW Instructor | Nevada CCW InstructorComment
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It really depends on what your intended use and common target distances will be. For me, my primary defense AR is zeroed at 50 yards, because I live in a wooded area. Nothing is visible past 150 yards and a 50 yard zero gives the flattest trajectory out to about 225 yards. If you expect to shoot in more open country out to 300 yards or more, then it's worth considering the standard military 25 yard zero. That's more effective in longer "battlefield" distances, but the downside is it has a significant holdover of several inches in the 100-200 yard range.
IMO, the best setup I've seen is a standard military zero on a rifle equipped with a BDC (bullet drop compensator) chevron reticle ACOG. I'm saving my pennies to convert to this.
Last edited by BBJohnnyT; 04-30-2013, 8:21 AM."If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns" - Edward AbbeyComment
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What's the LONGEST, unobstructed view in your house/apartment? There's your MINIMUM zeroing distance.sigpicComment
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I zeroed both my Saiga and the wife's Keltec slightly high at 50yds with EOTech XPS-2s & 3x multipliers. We shoot 154grSP in mine and 62grSP in hers. When holding the top dot center of the torso I am basically
.........POI
50yd .5" high
100yd 2" high
200yd on
300yd about 6" low
I am only going for minute-of-man accuracy with the EOTech sighting system and all of these will put an attacker down without having to change POA.
Past 300yds I will start working the lower dot of the XPS-2 into the equation.
For really up close (7ydish) the bottom of the circle is used.Comment
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know your scope. zero at 100 yard and moved back to 50 yard make note where you zero at 50 but stay on 100 yard zero and moved to 200 yard (if available) to zero . always stay on 100 yard zero after that you know how many click adjustment you need to shoot at 50 and 200.Comment
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Good link!What's the firearm and caliber? If it's an AR, might check this out:
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=65679A note to the NSA or anyone gathering information on me, this disclaimer is for you..."Everything I type on this website Is purely fictional and for entertainment purposes only. None of it is true."
Also, sometimes I type in CAPS to emphasize a POINT. Please dont interpret that as YELLING. Sorry if I HURT any fuzzy little bunny's FEELINGS out there.Comment
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