Terrible Day at the Range - Advice Needed

[Fjold]

And what is this for and how do you use it?

It screws into the back of the upper where the charging handle goes.
IMG_1372.jpg

That is the plug that takes the place of the charging handle on a side charging upper. It stops the bolt from falling out of the upper when you open up the rifle and plugs the hole in the back of the receiver to prevent hot gasses from blowing into your eye in the event of a ruptured case or pierced primers. You could have gotten a face full of hot gases from those primer failures that you just experienced if it was not installed.

The operating handle on the side charging upper is held on to the rifle bolt by an Allen bolt that has to be removed along with that plug to get the bolt out for cleaning and maintenance. The flat part has to face down (toward lower receiver) when the plug is installed to allow the upper receiver to close all the way.

[Che762x39]

I would get a RCBS Reloading Manual and read it. Reloading is a great hobby in itself not just saving money for shooting.

If you are reloading for self defense and you want to use a JHP use the 38 Special +P Section. If you want a light load go with the Speer 148 grain HBWC and 2.8 grains of Bullseye, for example.

[naz]

I would get a RCBS Reloading Manual and read it. Reloading is a great hobby in itself not just saving money for shooting.

If you are reloading for self defense and you want to use a JHP use the 38 Special +P Section. If you want a light load go with the Speer 148 grain HBWC and 2.8 grains of Bullseye, for example.

[SandDiegoDuner]

OP your 38 spl loads are too light for FMJ/JHP bullets. If you want to go light try some lead wad cutter bullets and probably switch powders as others have mentioned before.

[BrokerB]

i had a squib like that almost exactly in my g19. Bullet hanging out the end. Although after hearings very low pop, I examined the gun before shooting more. Took an aluminum rod banged bullet out, kept shooting.

As far as the AR.. that ammo is dam old..pretty sure 1980's? In no way should that be an issue..although it is "Chyna!"..I shoot 1970s ammo frequently. ..but again..it was ChYna made for domestic use: )

I find it a bit sad you kept shooting both many rounds after..those 5.56 rounds look terrible

[Sir Toast]

I find it a bit sad you kept shooting both many rounds after..those 5.56 rounds look terrible

I hear ya dude. However, the rounds were ejecting and I wasn't even aware there was an issue. They were ejecting at the 1 O'Clock position, over the firing line. I knew they were pretty hot because they were ejecting at the 1 O'Clock position. I just wasn't aware they were that hot until I was able to examine the rounds.

[Fjold]

For the ammo failures in the AR: This is a Wild *** Guess (WAG) but it may be that the stick powder has been broken down over the years by vibration or movement and the long granules have been reduced to a fine powder. This can increase the burn rate of the powder causing pressure to peak faster and higher.


Kes,

This place needs to grow up, the three-letter word for butt isn't going to corrupt anyone's morals,

[bruce381]

light 38 loads need to be LEAd I do it just jacketed will not work as U found out. I run 231 down at 500 feet real soft 38s. 223 ammo break down or dump is NO good lucky gun did not kaboom.
bad load or too BIG of bullets Chi Com stuff.

[AreWeNotMen?]

OP - glad you're okay, I've been there with squib loads (though I stopped at the first "Uh Oh, what was that"?). How the heck did you get the bullets out of your revolver barrel?!?

[divingin]

I think it is Titegroup.

You *think* it's Titegroup? That may be your problem.

3.2 TG should work fine with a 158 bullet. TG ignites very easily so unlikely to be an ignition problem (I run 3.0 with a 148HBWC.) If it wasn't Titegroup, though, all bets are off.

Your 223 is blanking primers (hence the sooty firing pin), so way overpressure there. Yours is the second time I've seen the bent FP retaining pin (the other was on an AR-10 in 6.5CM that was also run way hot.)

327 Federal Magnum is basically a 32 S&W with a longer case. The 32 Colt was lengthened to become the 32 S&W Long, and again to become the 32 H&R Magnum, and once more to become the 327 Fed Mag. Bore diameter (and following, the suitable bullet diameters) vary depending on age of the firearm, and can run anywhere from .310 to .315 so use a little care with older stuff. Usually these things are smallish revolvers, which tend to recoil quite a bit. 32 SWL is used a lot in Europe in centerfire target pistols.

[MasterChief]

"...I was very very careful..."

For your candor: Respect.

Firearms and reloading can be unforgiving if misused. Dont make mistakes.

[broadside]

Is that a real can or fake? If real, have you adjusted the gas system for it?

[Sir Toast]

Is that a real can or fake? If real, have you adjusted the gas system for it?

Fake. Just a fun upper.

[sigstroker]

Your powder charge is below minimum for the jacketed bullet. 3.2 is for a lead 158 gr, 3.5 is minimum for a jacketed 158 gr bullet.

Yes, don't use non-published loads. Lead bullets are cheaper anyway. When I loaded rounds that used very little case volume, I'd put a tuft of polyester fill over the powder. It tended to keep most of the powder near the primer. It burns up on firing.

[sigstroker]

i had a squib like that almost exactly in my g19. Bullet hanging out the end. Although after hearings very low pop, I examined the gun before shooting more. Took an aluminum rod banged bullet out, kept shooting.

As far as the AR.. that ammo is dam old..pretty sure 1980's? In no way should that be an issue..although it is "Chyna!"..I shoot 1970s ammo frequently. ..but again..it was ChYna made for domestic use: )

I find it a bit sad you kept shooting both many rounds after..those 5.56 rounds look terrible

Unlikely. I never saw any Norinco packaged like that in the 80's. It was all military looking stuff. That looks like 2000's era.