Simplex Mechanic Locks on Safes Recommendation, Feedback, Tips & Problems

[FAS1]

@ FAS1: Good information. Thank you. To your knowledge are there any Simplex Mechanical safes that have fire rating? Also it seems most Simplex Mechanical safes do not fit more than one long gun as the larger sized safes are largely designed to fit just one or two smaller handguns. Can you share any insights why the limitations? Thank you.

None that I am aware of has a fire rating. Most are too small to make a difference other than steel thickness and space is limited without much room for insulation. The value lost in a fire would be minimum any way since it's not your collection.

As far as products available it's simply demand. For quick access most people are wanting to store a single weapon. There are some that want one of each to be available if needed (handgun, shotgun, AR15). This might be a little quick access corner safe (if one was available) for example, or as most use today a separate safe for each and usually a different location.

I would consider building whatever is in demand, but also needs to be profitable. As I mentioned the Simplex lock is also falling out of grace with the younger generations and I won't build anything flimsy so the price structure can be a limiting factor also.

The AR15 safe I mentioned earlier that is 7GA would probably need to be priced in the $450-$500 range plus shipping. It's about 70lbs, so shipping will probably be another $75 - $100 depending on where you live. Lets say it ends up being $600 with shipping, that will limit potential customers to a fraction of those wanting a rifle for quick access. I'm not sure there would be enough volume to be profitable.

[czakita]

Wow FAS1 that looks promising! Please keep us posted and post in this thread so we all know about any developments and upcoming release dates. Thanks!

Separately, during recent research I came across the Shotlock handgun safe using Simplex Mechanical Locks https://www.shotlock.com/handgun
Has anyone tested or used one of their products?

[PaperTarget]

...
Separately, during recent research I came across the Shotlock handgun safe using Simplex Mechanical Locks https://www.shotlock.com/handgun
Has anyone tested or used one of their products?

Yes, I have one. It is built as solid as a tank. It has a key override which may be a plus or a minus for people considering the ShotLock.

[PaperTarget]

@PaperTarget: Thanks for sharing. How does it securely mount? Cable? Floor? Wall? Do you mind sharing which model(s) you tested and/or own? Also have you tested or perhaps bought other competitor manufacturer's models like the Fort Knox pistol box, V-Line Brute, Stealth, or the Fast1 Safes? Do you have other insight or concerns with any of the manufacturers models that you can share? Thank you!

So far, all Simplex lock safes I have used have been good.

I was attracted to the Simplex locks decades ago. And over the years, I have experience with mechanical simplex lock containers by V-Line, Amsec, Cannon, and TruckVault.

Only one of the Simplex locks has ever given me troubles. The push buttons got under a stack of heavy stuff. As if all the buttons got jammed down at the same time. That is probably why it isn't clicking the way it used to. So, it's in retirement until I can fix it or replace the lock on it.

The Shotlock is the drawer model. It uses a mounting plate. Then the drawer unit is mounted to that plate. It needs a flat surface. So if the table has a lip around the edge, you will have to shim the area between the safe and the underside of the table.

The Shotlock uses a mechanical lock that is similar to the Simplex lock. It is not the same. Setting the Shotlock combination required partial disassembly of the lock and moving or removing some pins/clips. It doesn't have the simultaneous pushing option as with the Simplex.

All work well enough with screw mounting or cable locks to prevent a casual grab. All of the boxes were built well enough to seemingly require more tools than a screwdriver to defeat.

These boxes with Simplex locks stay on the ground. They are not used for airline travel because of the bumping of the buttons and most are heavier than necessary for airline travel.

[FAS1]

Originally ShotLock used a Simplex lock and when there was a shortage of locks a few years back they began switching to their current locks. The only thing they have in common with a Simplex lock is they have pushbuttons.

I haven't run across any reliability issues with them, but they just don't have the long track record that the Simplex lock has.

Apparently the backup key is a significant weakness in the locks design. That shouldn't surpise anyone as most manufacturers buy the least expensive one that will do the job as a backup key.



The drop test that the LPL shows is not an issue if it's bolted down and he mentions that. All handgun safes should be bolted down. The paperclip hack is probably not an issue anymore as I can't imagine that ShotLock hasn't started welding up those corners after this video.

[czakita]

@PaperTarget: You raise some good concerns about the ShotLock and the inability to press two buttons simultaneously. I was not aware of this design issue. And thanks for clarifying ShotLock does not use Simplex Mechanic locks currently.

@FAS1: You keep on sharing some good details about Simplex locks, thank you! Yes the backup key incorporated into the ShotLock does concern me. Could it be blocked to prevent use? Sounds counterproductive but the key is a weakness in the design. How would you block it?

As for bolting down this or any other Simplex Mechanic lock safes, what do you recommend if the owner cannot bolt it down to the floor? I imagine many owners store their small safes inside a side dresser and it could be bolted inside. But, unless you have a solid dresser that is also securely bolted to the floor, or at the very least the bed frame, I doubt storing it inside a dresser will reduce theft. Imagine an Ikea side table, most of us can lift it up and carry it away. Perhaps I am overthinking the issue?

So, does anyone else also have any advice how to best secure a Simplex Mechanic locking safe? Thanks in advance for sharing.

[FAS1]

@FAS1: You keep on sharing some good details about Simplex locks, thank you! Yes the backup key incorporated into the ShotLock does concern me. Could it be blocked to prevent use? Sounds counterproductive but the key is a weakness in the design. How would you block it?

I would imagine you could just remove the cam on the backside of the lock to disable it.

You could also replace it with a high security lock like an Abloy since it only has one function and key pull only from locked position. You would only need a 90 degree clockwise rotation. This lock will cost in the $70 dollar range though.

https://www.abloy.com/en-US/products1/catalogue/mechanical-industrial-locks-/cam-locks/us-range-cam-lock-cl200/

As for bolting down this or any other Simplex Mechanic lock safes, what do you recommend if the owner cannot bolt it down to the floor? I imagine many owners store their small safes inside a side dresser and it could be bolted inside. But, unless you have a solid dresser that is also securely bolted to the floor, or at the very least the bed frame, I doubt storing it inside a dresser will reduce theft. Imagine an Ikea side table, most of us can lift it up and carry it away. Perhaps I am overthinking the issue?

You might be overthinking it a bit, but everyone views security differently. A safe made of less than 1/8" (11GA) steel is easily pried with a common screwdriver no matter what you have it bolted to.

The design of the safe might be the most limiting factor on how and where you can mount it. For example: If the safe opens like a cigar box, you won't be able to bolt it to a wall stud or the side of your bed frame or dresser. Think long about where the ideal place to mount it is for you and that will help with your decision on safes.

So, does anyone else also have any advice how to best secure a Simplex Mechanic locking safe? Thanks in advance for sharing.

Here's a few ideas from customers. Sorry for so many images, but you can see this safe can mount in many ways where others cannot.

In a closet and bolted to the wall from the side.


Bolted in the drawer like you mentioned and not really a theft deterrent.


Not sure if this one is bolted from the back or the bottom shelf. It could also be bolted from the side if you put it next to the side of the shelf.


Bolted to the wall stud.


Bolted to the side of the nightstand.


Suppressor safe bolted to the bed frame.


Mine bolted to my bed frame with lock nuts on the inside.


Bolted on it's side to a wall unit next to a bed instead of a nightstand.


Bolted sideways under a steel bedframe.

[BrokerB]

Yes, I dont use the simplex handgun boxes to prevent theft. They are to stop unauthorized use by kids or dumb adults. When I dont want it easily stolen the pistol goes into large Liberty Safe type device that is redheaded into concrete slab.

[lastinline]

Trying to secure something like that to a bed frame, or other furniture is only good if you are there. I’ve used a battery operated Sawzall to cut more than one bed frame, night stand, etc. for friends who couldn’t get them open for whatever reason. Literally takes a few minutes or less. One similar Box we removed from a wall by smashing the drywall around the unit, then using the battery operated saw to cut the two wall studs it was mounted to. This was of course done with permission; in that case a rental house wherein the box was left behind. Opening the box with a chop saw using a metal cutting disc yielded nothing of value.
I think that mounting any safes/boxes etc., is best done by securing it to a heavy concrete slab or walls, using six bolts.

[FAS1]

When it comes to power tools no RSC is any safer. Luckily, most thieves are lazy and if they had a Sawzall they already pawned it for some cash. For 99% of burglaries you are defending against some basic hand tools.

All you can really do is buy some time and the better job you do, the better chance your gun won't get stolen.

This is from a customer.

"Wanted to let you know that a few weeks ago we had a burglary and the dude found the FAS1 by my bed and it appears he tried to pry it open and failed. He got away with plenty of stuff, and the Stack On security cabinet didn't keep him from some of my long guns... but he didn't get my pistols, thanks in part to your product."

[czakita]

@ FAS1: Those are some excellent pictures, they definitely help me as good photo references. All those different mounts give me different ideas. Thanks for sharing so many, you can never have too many pictures. What materials work best to bolt down the FAS1 safes? What size bolts and washers?

Love the testimonial from a FAS1 customer. Do you have any customers who shared pictures of attempted but unsuccessful safe removals?

You and lastinline both mention powertools can cut away the supporting materials around most safe boxes. In your experience and also other CG members, how frequently have you encountered/discovered a theft of a safe box was due to powertools? Got any references you can share too?

@ lastinline: You wrote, "I think that mounting any safes/boxes etc., is best done by securing it to a heavy concrete slab or walls, using six bolts." What types of bolts or other materials do you recommend to 'secure' a safe box? Is there anything else you would recommend doing too?

Thanks everyone for sharing. Stay safe and God Bless.

[FAS1]

^^^ @czakita

As far as my safes go, they can be secured any number of ways and in any orientation so there are lots of option on what to use to bolt them down.

3/8" x 3" lag bolts seem to be popular when bolting to a wall stud.

1/4" - 3/8" bolts with lock nuts on the inside work well for attaching to a be frame or another object. A standard washer could be used, but washers don't really make a difference for me as my safes are already 7GA thick and gain little from the use of a washer.

Good quality concrete anchors work well to mount to a slab.

I do not have any real world examples of power tools being used to remove a FAS1 safe. Probably not a common issue regardless of brand. Most thin gauge steel handgun safes are probably just as easy to pry open or remove with a common screwdriver and/or hammer.

I do have a friend that had his console type vault in his truck opened in a matter of seconds (or maybe a minute at most) with a cordless Sawzall. If you are familiar with the locking cam on these you can understand how it can be easily cut in the front door gap to the box itself.

[lastinline]

@ lastinline: You wrote, "I think that mounting any safes/boxes etc., is best done by securing it to a heavy concrete slab or walls, using six bolts." What types of bolts or other materials do you recommend to 'secure' a safe box? Is there anything else you would recommend doing too?

[czakita]

@FAS1: Thanks for the details. What is the minimum steel thickness you recommend for pistol safes and why? Also can you discuss how using washers may help possibly secure larger safes not RSC? Couldn't the criminals still cut the floor like they might the wall, sheetrock, and studs? Thanks and hope you are doing better.

@lastinline: Where would you recommend buying genuine cement bolts that are grade 5 or higher to install an actual safe not RSC? And do you feel it is sufficient to just use the bolts without washers or the epoxy you mentioned? Or is installing the washers a must? Considering options because to install washers I need to get into the drop ceiling in the unit below me. Thanks for all the help and via PM; I sent you a follow up PM too.

[FAS1]

@FAS1: Thanks for the details. What is the minimum steel thickness you recommend for pistol safes and why? Also can you discuss how using washers may help possibly secure larger safes not RSC? Couldn't the criminals still cut the floor like they might the wall, sheetrock, and studs? Thanks and hope you are doing better.

Thank you, I am doing OK.

I believe all safes/handgun safes/RSC's should be bolted down to something solid with good hardware. Yes, criminals might try breeching the safe other ways, but generally they are lazy and in a hurry.

All you can do is really buy time, so why not buy as much as possible? While a lot of people buy a quick access handgun safe just to keep their kids out, most won't even slow a thief down who only has a screwdriver on him. Because I want to slow the thief down I prefer at least 3/16" steel and a well constructed box that is bolted down.

The safe in the end is only part of what you can do to secure your guns from theft. Dogs, alarms, cameras, etc. can all work in conjunction to deter theft.