Ithaca 100 20ga

[Ajlopez281]

[shovelon]

Nice SxS.

I would make sure it opens clean, closes clean, and locks up nice with the tang slightly off to the right of center. Do you know how to remove the forearm, and then remove the barrels? If so a tad bit of grease on the pivots and ejectors is a good idea.

Also look down the bores and check for smooth surfaces. I would also determine the choke constriction and any sign of barrel bulging. I would not shoot steel shot either until you know the barrels are built to handle steel shot. My Brownings do not tolerate steel shot.

Other than those find some lite target loads and bust some clays. Side x sides are fun to shoot. In fact there is a side by side club shooting an event at Moore and Moore Sporting Clays tomorrow. I may go.

[NapalmCheese]

Nice SxS.

I would make sure it opens clean, closes clean, and locks up nice with the tang slightly off to the right of center. Do you know how to remove the forearm, and then remove the barrels? If so a tad bit of grease on the pivots and ejectors is a good idea.

Also look down the bores and check for smooth surfaces. I would also determine the choke constriction and any sign of barrel bulging. I would not shoot steel shot either until you know the barrels are built to handle steel shot. My Brownings do not tolerate steel shot.

Other than those find some lite target loads and bust some clays. Side x sides are fun to shoot. In fact there is a side by side club shooting an event at Moore and Moore Sporting Clays tomorrow. I may go.

I would add: check the screws around the tang and trigger guard. Often the wood shrinks and dries out causing the screws to loosen up. I'm not sure of the mechanics of the Ithaca 100, but on a Nitro Special if the trigger guard loosens up the gun will eventually stop firing.

[shovelon]

I would add: check the screws around the tang and trigger guard. Often the wood shrinks and dries out causing the screws to loosen up. I'm not sure of the mechanics of the Ithaca 100, but on a Nitro Special if the trigger guard loosens up the gun will eventually stop firing.

Good idea. Had not thought of that.

Also grab the stock at the butt, and the trigger forearm and wiggle to see if stock bolt is loose. Typically the bolt is under the butt plate. Any play can crack the stock. I keep blue locktite paste on my stockbolts.

[Ajlopez281]

Thank you guys. I’ve been doing research on it and I’m excited to take it out to shoot it. I’m definitely going to do all the suggested. I read that I’m not supposed to shoot steel thru it. It’s in really good shape. I read that they are wanted by western action shooters and they shorten the barrels. Don’t worry, that is not in the future for this one. I plan on shooting clays and maybe try my hand at dove when the season comes.

Shovelon, I might have to check that out the next time they do it. The Redlands shooting park is about 10mins from me, so I’ll probably go there to try my hand at clays.

[Ducky's Dad]

The Ithaca 100, if it's the one I am thinking of, was made by SKB. I have not owned one, but they are reputed to be pretty much indestructible. Lot of guys shoot steel in them for waterfowl, as long as chokes are appropriate for the loads. The only common failure point is where the scalloped frame meets the wood. If you shoot a lot of heavy duck loads, the points on the scallops concentrate the recoil on very small sections of wood and can lead to hairline cracks. Sensible loads and tight screws are the cure. Target and normal field loads, no problem.

[Ajlopez281]

The Ithaca 100, if it's the one I am thinking of, was made by SKB. I have not owned one, but they are reputed to be pretty much indestructible. Lot of guys shoot steel in them for waterfowl, as long as chokes are appropriate for the loads. The only common failure point is where the scalloped frame meets the wood. If you shoot a lot of heavy duck loads, the points on the scallops concentrate the recoil on very small sections of wood and can lead to hairline cracks. Sensible loads and tight screws are the cure. Target and normal field loads, no problem.

[Ducky's Dad]

If it's a red RayBar, it's probably original. Ithaca liked to put them on their shotguns, even the old 37 Featherlights. Quirky, but factory.

[Ajlopez281]

If it's a red RayBar, it's probably original. Ithaca liked to put them on their shotguns, even the old 37 Featherlights. Quirky, but factory.

[shovelon]

Shovelon, I might have to check that out the next time they do it. The Redlands shooting park is about 10mins from me, so I’ll probably go there to try my hand at clays.

If you get to the skeet fields at Redlands there may be some shooters that will let you in for a round. Tell them you are new and they may check your gun out for you an show you how to play the game. TrapperJohn(skeet clinic coordinator) shoots there. You might be able to meet up with him for a couple of rounds. Skeet would be the perfect clays game for your 20 gauge.

[Ajlopez281]

[shovelon]

Shovelon, thank you for the heads up. I’m definitely going to have to head down there. I’ve been looking at their site and I drive by it a lot. Just need to head down there. Is there a specific round/ shell type I should be using? Any pointers would be great. I don’t want to go down there and be a complete noob. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Most common 20 gauge shell for skeet or trap is 7/8oz, #7.5-#9 shot, low recoil up to 1200fps. I have a ton of #8 shot myself and it works well. The ranges won't let you shoot lead any bigger than #7.5 shot anyway. IDK but Redlands may have shells for sale for you to use. Walmart even sells shotgun shells. I prefer #7.5 shot for sporting clays, but #8 will work. Anything for trap shooting is good.

Good Luck and have fun. Wish you were closer. Would like to shoot with you sometime.

[Ducky's Dad]

At this point, we have no idea how the gun is choked, so load recommendations for skeet are a bit of a crapshoot. If it has tight chokes, OP would want the slowest, softest pellet (low antimony), load of 9s that he can get his hand on. Slow and soft will open up the patterns. If it has open chokes, he should still stick with 9s, but any field or target load of 9s will do.

[shovelon]

Good point on not knowing how it is choked. But better to test fire it before considering sending it out for threading for chokes. Who knows it may shoot well. I shot my full/full BSS pretty good on the skeet field but now have it out to Mike Orlen for choke threading. Skeet/Skeet may almost be cheating.

Tight chokes may be more beneficial on the trap field or sporting clays course.

[Ajlopez281]

Good point on not knowing how it is choked. But better to test fire it before considering sending it out for threading for chokes. Who knows it may shoot well. I shot my full/full BSS pretty good on the skeet field but now have it out to Mike Orlen for choke threading. Skeet/Skeet may almost be cheating.



Tight chokes may be more beneficial on the trap field or sporting clays course.