Marlin 795 MEGATHREAD Part Deuce

[inbox485]

Does this rebuild kit block them to 10 rounds for legality?

That would be your part. The kit is for either rebuilding an existing magazine you legally own, or for custom building a 10 round mag. It is up to you to not assemble a mag capable of accepting >10 rounds while inside CA. You are also free to leave CA assemble, use freely and disassemble prior to re-entry.

[CharlesV]

Does this rebuild kit block them to 10 rounds for legality?

No it doesnt block the capacity to 10 rds. Yes LAK was here but he moved out of CA and sells around the country. Because he advertises here doesnt mean all is legal for CA. People who buy from LAK know whats legal or not for their application. Check your rules before making a mistake.

[defcon]

SA80 / L85 using a Marlin 60

Full metal. Weighs 15 lbs.


_MG_6193 by defconskylude, on Flickr


_MG_6197 by defconskylude, on Flickr


_MG_6192 by defconskylude, on Flickr


_MG_6196 by defconskylude, on Flickr


_MG_6191 by defconskylude, on Flickr

[Lead Waster]

Anybody have a Boyds hunter stock? I ordered one and it should be here on Friday. I wish I had seen the tacticool stock when they had a run of them.

I bought one. One problem I had is the wood near the forward action screw (that holds the trigger guard to the stock and reciever) was missing bits. ie instead of a piece of wood with a hole in it, it was a U shape. Probably doesn't matter too much. I planned on pillar bedding this part anyway.

So last night I cleaned up the action (FULL of grit and residue from 500 rounds without cleaning it and WAY too much oil from me).

I polished up the top of the bold carrier and fit it all into the wood stock.

ugh, things were dragging around in there, I'm not sure what, but it might be that the sides of the action were touching the wood inside the stock.

Since I'm going to an Appleseed this weekend, I just said "screw it" and put it back into the plastic stock.

However, I did manage to slightly screw up the gun.

As we all know, the magazine release is a b*stard and the mags have to be pulled out with the catch held down/back. ie a two handed operation. I got a bit frustrated, so with the action in hand, I just pulled back on the release/mag catch thingy and it bend backwards a bit. I also sanded the magwell a bit.

Now when I want to pull the mags out, I just need to rock the base forward and the mag comes out. Unfortunately, I think this is too loose and I'll ahve to disassemble the action to bend the catch back OR maybe use some jb weld to make the bump on the catch (or the magazines) more pronounced.

I've not shot it yet, but I'm afraid the mags will just fall out when I shoot or maybe they aren't held up all the way. So...probably better not to do this!

The release is hard to bend back to normal shape in because it lies flat against the magazine well, so bending it away from the well is easy, bending it back is impossible because you have to "overbend" metal to make it bend int the right place.

Also with the mag release bent back a bit, it makes taking the trigger guard hard to install.

[Lead Waster]

DIProducts aluminum trigger guard/trigger ... not exactly drop in.

OK, this part is expensive ($70 on a $100 rifle!) but I wanted to make this .22 really nice.

Here's what I found.

1) You have to take the safety bits out of the old trigger guard and transfer them to the DIP guard. This means you have to drive out pins and transfer the safety button, a small spring and a tiny plunger. WTF, for $70, it should come with those parts!

2) You have to put it together, meaning you have to put the trigger onto the trigger guard. Not a big deal? Well...

3) The supplied trigger pin is a touch too large for the supplied trigger. WTF, both parts came from DIP, why don't they fit? You can force them to fit with elbow grease, but then the trigger doesn't really move easily and the trigger return spring will do nothing. I had to sand down the pin to make it fit and allow the trigger to rotate around it properly. This is the forward trigger pin, which the trigger rotates around

4) With the second trigger pin installed (it sits in a round hole in the trigger and basically limits the back and forth motion of the tigger, because you don't want the trigger to rotate all over the place! YOU CAN'T DISENGAGE THE SAFETY and you have to put the safety in first. This is because the safety is a button which, when depressed prevents the trigger from moving back because the back of the trigger has a little flange that hits the safety button. When the safety is in the off position the flange can move past the button. I had to file off part of the flange to make it so that the safety can engage/disengage or even install!

Other than that, it's nice.

I don't understand though, why you have to install the trigger into the guard (probably they are sold seperately) AND THEY DON'T FIT TOGETHER. Both things come from DIP, how can they not fit together properly!

I do like that it has an overtravel screw and a pre-travel screw (which I don't think works well on my gun due to the location of the screw and where it hits or doesn't hit the disconnector.)


So is it worth $70? To be honest, I don't think so, not for me on a $100 gun, but I already bought it. I mean, it is NICE and probably the best made part on the gun when it's all together, but I would say buy it if your plastic guard/trigger breaks. It might be worth it if it came with the safety parts and the whole thing was already assembled.

Oh yeah, and you'll need tiny tiny hex keys to install the pins. The instructions DO say that you should take it to a gunsmith, but that seems a CYA, and if that is the case, then the part and gunsmith install will easily meet or exceed the cost of the whole gun!

[defcon]

Bad range trip. Had major FTF/FTE issues. Used different ammo and still had issues. Will be checking for feed lip nickle trick and overtightened front action screws, and other common Marlin 60 issues

It extracts fine after I hand load a single bullet.

At least the trigger linkage worked.

[Chaos47]

Wow Lead Waster.. lots of issues.. none of which I had with DIP or Boyds..
Sorry to hear that..

I bought one. One problem I had is the wood near the forward action screw (that holds the trigger guard to the stock and reciever) was missing bits. ie instead of a piece of wood with a hole in it, it was a U shape. Probably doesn't matter too much. I planned on pillar bedding this part anyway.

So last night I cleaned up the action (FULL of grit and residue from 500 rounds without cleaning it and WAY too much oil from me).

I polished up the top of the bold carrier and fit it all into the wood stock.

ugh, things were dragging around in there, I'm not sure what, but it might be that the sides of the action were touching the wood inside the stock.

Since I'm going to an Appleseed this weekend, I just said "screw it" and put it back into the plastic stock.

However, I did manage to slightly screw up the gun.

As we all know, the magazine release is a b*stard and the mags have to be pulled out with the catch held down/back. ie a two handed operation. I got a bit frustrated, so with the action in hand, I just pulled back on the release/mag catch thingy and it bend backwards a bit. I also sanded the magwell a bit.

Now when I want to pull the mags out, I just need to rock the base forward and the mag comes out. Unfortunately, I think this is too loose and I'll ahve to disassemble the action to bend the catch back OR maybe use some jb weld to make the bump on the catch (or the magazines) more pronounced.

I've not shot it yet, but I'm afraid the mags will just fall out when I shoot or maybe they aren't held up all the way. So...probably better not to do this!

The release is hard to bend back to normal shape in because it lies flat against the magazine well, so bending it away from the well is easy, bending it back is impossible because you have to "overbend" metal to make it bend int the right place.

Also with the mag release bent back a bit, it makes taking the trigger guard hard to install.

The magazine release being bent like that will more then likely cause feeding issues. I have never replaced one but here is the part:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/951478/marlin-magazine-latch-and-ejector-marlin-795-795ss-7000

Notice it is the magazine release and ejector. They are one stamped part.

DIProducts aluminum trigger guard/trigger ... not exactly drop in.

OK, this part is expensive ($70 on a $100 rifle!) but I wanted to make this .22 really nice.

Here's what I found.

1) You have to take the safety bits out of the old trigger guard and transfer them to the DIP guard. This means you have to drive out pins and transfer the safety button, a small spring and a tiny plunger. WTF, for $70, it should come with those parts!

2) You have to put it together, meaning you have to put the trigger onto the trigger guard. Not a big deal? Well...

3) The supplied trigger pin is a touch too large for the supplied trigger. WTF, both parts came from DIP, why don't they fit? You can force them to fit with elbow grease, but then the trigger doesn't really move easily and the trigger return spring will do nothing. I had to sand down the pin to make it fit and allow the trigger to rotate around it properly. This is the forward trigger pin, which the trigger rotates around

4) With the second trigger pin installed (it sits in a round hole in the trigger and basically limits the back and forth motion of the tigger, because you don't want the trigger to rotate all over the place! YOU CAN'T DISENGAGE THE SAFETY and you have to put the safety in first. This is because the safety is a button which, when depressed prevents the trigger from moving back because the back of the trigger has a little flange that hits the safety button. When the safety is in the off position the flange can move past the button. I had to file off part of the flange to make it so that the safety can engage/disengage or even install!

Other than that, it's nice.

I don't understand though, why you have to install the trigger into the guard (probably they are sold seperately) AND THEY DON'T FIT TOGETHER. Both things come from DIP, how can they not fit together properly!

I do like that it has an overtravel screw and a pre-travel screw (which I don't think works well on my gun due to the location of the screw and where it hits or doesn't hit the disconnector.)


So is it worth $70? To be honest, I don't think so, not for me on a $100 gun, but I already bought it. I mean, it is NICE and probably the best made part on the gun when it's all together, but I would say buy it if your plastic guard/trigger breaks. It might be worth it if it came with the safety parts and the whole thing was already assembled.

Oh yeah, and you'll need tiny tiny hex keys to install the pins. The instructions DO say that you should take it to a gunsmith, but that seems a CYA, and if that is the case, then the part and gunsmith install will easily meet or exceed the cost of the whole gun!

That's all odd too.
I had no problem putting the trigger unit together. Even removing and reinstalling the safety.
Be careful filing parts of the trigger that engage the trigger.. IMO that should not have been done. You may want to drop test your rifle.
The supplied threaded replacement pins screwed right it.
Sure they could machine replacement safety parts or probably even order them but I think part of the reason they do not is liability.

I followed these directions from DIP:

http://www.diproductsinc.com/ItemMedia/10019/10019_39965.pdf

http://www.diproductsinc.com/ItemMedia/10019/10019_48905.pdf

I agree the adjustment screws hex heads are TINY, not a normal size you would have arround. They should really include that key...

[Lead Waster]

I took the action apart and bent the mag release back so that it would snuggly hold the magazine.

So i shot an Appleseed event this weekend, which is about 400-500 rounds (lost count, but at least one pack for 325 Fed Automatch used up).

The trigger gave me no problems, and the magazine held firmly.

I did get a bunch of failures to feed. Sometimes I'd find a round in the action, off to the side of the magazine. I had a few times where I THINK that no round was stipped off the mag! I probably should replace that part, thought the first time I went to an Appleseed, I had a bunch of FTF, FTE as well.

I was using 6 magazines, two of which were straight out of the box. One of those was used as my "trusty 10 rounder" when it was filled with 10 rounds, it didn't give me any problems. Of the others, which I lost track of which was which, pretty much all of them gave me FTF when it was loaded with only 2 rounds. To get around this, I loaded 4 rounds and cheated if one of the rounds jammed, I could eject it and still continue the shoot without excessive penalty. (Course of fire requires a mag of 2 and a mag of 8, to force a reload). That was frustrating.

However, I did manage to shoot "Rifleman" at the shoot!

My 795, topped with a $40 Barska "Plinker 22 3x9" was dead accurate at 25 yards. The jamming was disconcerting and disappointing too.

I did go and polish the top of the bolt carrier to a mirror shine (no metal removal, just automotive sandpaper 800-1500 grit, then steel wool)

I dunno. Maybe I need a new magwell/feedramp or maybe my bending of the mag catch/ejector caused some issues, but again, I had those issues with the stock gun as well.

Anyway, normal untimed range shooting is not that badly distubed by jamming. And I was using Federal Automatch. I don't have any CCI MiniMags to try out otherwise I would have shot the match with them to test them in the gun.

[defcon]

i also had that bent magazine release. i tried bending it back and still had FTF/FTE. i just bought a replacement and it fixed the issue

[BakaLogic]

I've had problems with the Boyd hunter stock as well. It fit fine but when I tried shooting it, I had FTF problems. I basically had to [edit] push the magazine up each time I tried to shoot otherwise my 705 wouldn't fire. When I went back to the plastic stock I no longer had any issues. (On rereading, I guess it didn't fit fine at all...)

It's basically sitting in my closet now. At some point I'll call or email Boyd's and figure out if I have to sand it somewhere or if it's a known issue for them but I've been happy with the plastic stock for now.

My Marly still has the DIP trigger and trigger guard though. They work like a charm and the only problem I had installing is that I didn't realize there was a spring in the safety until it dropped out of the trigger group and onto the floor. Two hours later I finally found it.

By the way, has anyone purchased the Mcarbo spring kit? I'm thinking about purchasing it and any input on ease of installation and satisfaction would be welcome. Thanks in advance.

[Lead Waster]

...
My Marly still has the DIP trigger and trigger guard though. They work like a charm and the only problem I had installing is that I didn't realize there was a spring in the safety until it dropped out of the trigger group and onto the floor. Two hours later I finally found it.

...

Dude, on Friday night, I opened the action up to bend my mag release back to normal. I didn't remember to capture the hammer spring and when I open the side plates of the action, pieces went flying everywhere! Since I was going to Appleseed the next morning, meeting a friend at 7:30, i wanted to get to sleep early, but instead, I stayed up until 2:00 AM to find the "hammer spring retaining plate". I hunted the entire kitchen, the shelves, the sink ...

I was so frustrated, it was my only 22 and I've totally ruined the weekend.

Then as I was giving up, I decided to search around the garbage can again and ... there ON THE GARBAGE CAN PEDAL sat that stupid stupid part. The pedal is black and has an indentation on it, the part is also black. If it was an inch or two in any direction, it would have fallen to the floor where I would have seen it in a minute, instead of making me DISASSEMBLE a shelving unit to look under it and HUNT UNDER MY FRIDGE AND DISHWASHER.

Ugh... so much frustration! BUT complete elation when I found the stupid thing.

I think the Boyd's stock is too thick inside the cutout and something definitely rubs.

I will try and install it again, not that there is no time pressure.

[defcon]

i normally disassemble mine between a hallway with all the doors closed. that way if something flies out, theres not much room to go except bounce off the walls.

or you can do it in a bathroom. close the toilet lid and plug the sink.

[Zeruel]

Is there anywhere in the San Diego/ Escondido area that has a 795ss for a decent price?

[Chaos47]

I've never seen the SS in a shop.. probably need to order one.

[SanJoseJerry]

Greeting marlin 795 guys, I've got a question.

I have a 795 with a ringed / bulged barrel. AFAIK, I had a squib load followed up by a normal load, both remington subsonic rounds. It left a very small bulge on the outside, and a section on the inside that looks like a dark ring where cleaning patches are loose for 1/2 inch or so.

I see new barrels are reasonably priced, around $40-ish, and it doesn't look too bad to swap it out. But... if I'm going to swap barrels... perhaps I could put on a new model 60 barrel and get the extra few inches of sight radius.

Will a model 60 barrel work on a model 795 receiver?

Is the barrel locking pin pre-drilled on a new barrel? I have access to a machine shop if I have to drill it, just looking to minimize surprises.

Thanks!

SanJoseJerry.