Ruger 10/22 frustrations

[kamber19]

Could your barrel be misaligned?
Is the notch in the barrel not alligned with the extractor?
Have you tried removing the barrel and reattaching it?

+1 on this.

[SFCRangerDoc]

+1 on this.

We have an Appleseed shoot coming up this weekend. I will see what the wife wants to do. She seems to have 0 issues with mini-mags so i may just have her shoot those this weekend and then we'll do a full stripdown. Everything looks aligned properly though when it comes to bolt wear on the barrel extending into the reciever and the extractor hits the notch right where it should. the canted barrel issue that the original owner sent it back to ruger for seems to have been resolved and the gun does shoot very true when it works.

[Roots]

My 10/22 has standard barrel and was proablaby bought 15 years ago. From day one I have had stovepipe and FTE issues. When I called Ruger they sent me a new 5 round mag. It did not fix the problem.

Of all the ammo I have tried in this one, the only ammo that works has been Remington Golden Bullet. That's all I've done to "fix" the problem.

I'm pissed off because it should be able to shoot just about any .22 ammo. I've had a couple other 10/22s in my life and neither had issues.

Maybe I should try replacing the extractor as others have mentioned, but for now it stays in my safe and never gets shot....that's my actual (temporary) solution.

[bohoki]

how does the ejector look it should be sliding along the bottom of the bolt in the corner of the groove


the only guns i bought that i didnt have to fix was a glock 17 and a slr95

[ScottsBad]

That's the weird thing about the 10/22 if you have a reliable one out of the box it'll probably stay that way for a long time. Get a lemon and it can be a real pain.

I would take others advice and change out the springs and extractor. I would also clean the hell out of the chamber. After reading this thread I'm going to get the extractor upgrade myself.

I have more problems feeding than anything else, but an extractor upgrade is good PM.

[SFCRangerDoc]

how does the ejector look it should be sliding along the bottom of the bolt in the corner of the groove


the only guns i bought that i didnt have to fix was a glock 17 and a slr95

I'll take a pic of the extractor tonight when i get home. It's fairly new and was sent to me for free from Ruger when i called and complained the first time about the stovepiping...

[oddball]

Here is a photo of a Ruger 10/22 extractor and an aftermarket one.

[snypr]

If the issue is the extractor, I second the volq exact edge...

[Rickrock1]

I had so many frustrations with my 10 22 from the gate and have owned going on 30 years. I quickly learned that only the factory mags and preferred ammo worked best for me.
This rifle goes with me everytime I go to the our door range. me and family have put easily 20,000 rds thru this puppy lost count.

The only replacement things needed to date KNOCK ON WOOD the mags and more mags. The butler 30 also work very well.

The ammo of choice is Aguila and wolf with very little or no problems. These rifles are not very pick on food as many 22s just need to find the right match. Good,luck,with your fix and hopefully it will be a simple fix.

[RawHP]

Take the rifle apart, remove the bolt, and use scotch bright or steel wool to clean off any overspray or roughness on the inside top of the receiver. Make it smooth but try not to remove any metal. While you're at it, polish the hammer face that contacts the bolt when it cycles.

You don't need to go this far, but something like this when you're done:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4269025&postcount=12

Edit: Stove pipe is usually due to the bolt not completely cycling. When everything is smoothed up, a 10/22 can actually cycle and eject rounds even with no extractor installed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHWc24hJvGI

[duckman1]

Order the extractor and replace it at the same time, after all you will have it apart.

My research also turns up the bend in the guide rod hence why i just ordered the KIDD guide rod and spring kit. 12 bucks isnt going to kill me. I may have to get the KIDD or the Volkq extractor if the spring kit doesn't help.



Yes, but they're not sticking into the receiver. Factory bolts and rail. I do not see any excess wear on the receiver or bolt so i don't think its dragging too badly.

As for the ammo, ive never had issues with auto match before now and have put buttloads of it through other 10/22s w/out issue so i dunno. I mean, id love to feed it exclusively mini-mags but they're pricey and harder to find.

[SFCRangerDoc]

Update:

So i took the rifle all the way apart and spent some time last night with some emery paper and steel wool and faced everything i could. I taped the emery paper to a flat surface and worked all the flat edges of the bolt that contact the receiver and smoothed them out real nice as well as ran an emery paper in the receiver to smooth out those contact points as well. I also took the emery paper to the spring guide rod and smoothed it out too. Gun seems to be running a lot smoother now. The KIDD spring set and guide rod isnt showing up until next week so this will have to do. I dropped the bolt in and looked at how the extractor engages the notch on the barrel and it lands properly in the notch when closed and doesn't seem to drag and isnt worn weird. I forgot to take a picture of the extractor out of the gun so I'll try to get that tonight. Also I put the factory bolt buffer back in place. We had put in a red polymer bolt buffer and I'm wondering if it was hindering the bolt coming back far enough or absorbing enough of the recoil that the standard velocity wasn't kicking back hard enough. We'll see how it works this weekend. I'm still going to order the Volq extractor for good measure though.

[mtndragon]

another data point

Just wanted to give you another point (or two ) of data. I have two 10/22's, both with Kidd rods and springs. With the medium spring, both guns run any ammo, except subsonic, with no problems. It loves the Federal bulk 325's and just about anything I throw at it. The subsonic will FTE, but I've not tried the lighter springs to see if it will work. Even dirty (500-1000 rounds with no cleaning) the 10/22 hums along.
Best of luck getting it worked out.

[RawHP]

Update:

So i took the rifle all the way apart and spent some time last night with some emery paper and steel wool and faced everything i could. I taped the emery paper to a flat surface and worked all the flat edges of the bolt that contact the receiver and smoothed them out real nice as well as ran an emery paper in the receiver to smooth out those contact points as well. I also took the emery paper to the spring guide rod and smoothed it out too. Gun seems to be running a lot smoother now. The KIDD spring set and guide rod isnt showing up until next week so this will have to do. I dropped the bolt in and looked at how the extractor engages the notch on the barrel and it lands properly in the notch when closed and doesn't seem to drag and isnt worn weird. I forgot to take a picture of the extractor out of the gun so I'll try to get that tonight. Also I put the factory bolt buffer back in place. We had put in a red polymer bolt buffer and I'm wondering if it was hindering the bolt coming back far enough or absorbing enough of the recoil that the standard velocity wasn't kicking back hard enough. We'll see how it works this weekend. I'm still going to order the Volq extractor for good measure though.

Good luck! It should be satisfying to see if your elbow grease pays off.

If you can, before you hit the range, do a thorough cleaning of the chamber. Normal cleaning with a rod and brush/patch or using a bore snake, won't always clean out the "carbon ring" that develops at the front of the chamber after shooting a lot of rounds. I used a 22LR rifle bore brush, bent 90 degrees, to scrub the chamber (after bending it, the threaded end works like a handle). I use it at the range after every few hundred rounds to keep anything from building up.

[SB1964]

Update:

So i took the rifle all the way apart and spent some time last night with some emery paper and steel wool and faced everything i could. I taped the emery paper to a flat surface and worked all the flat edges of the bolt that contact the receiver and smoothed them out real nice as well as ran an emery paper in the receiver to smooth out those contact points as well. I also took the emery paper to the spring guide rod and smoothed it out too. Gun seems to be running a lot smoother now. The KIDD spring set and guide rod isnt showing up until next week so this will have to do. I dropped the bolt in and looked at how the extractor engages the notch on the barrel and it lands properly in the notch when closed and doesn't seem to drag and isnt worn weird. I forgot to take a picture of the extractor out of the gun so I'll try to get that tonight. Also I put the factory bolt buffer back in place. We had put in a red polymer bolt buffer and I'm wondering if it was hindering the bolt coming back far enough or absorbing enough of the recoil that the standard velocity wasn't kicking back hard enough. We'll see how it works this weekend. I'm still going to order the Volq extractor for good measure though.

Don't overthink all this. SCRUB the chamber with plenty of oil, replace the extractor & rod kit. Center the extractor in the groove, as you know how & you're GTG. The softer buffers generally help & won't "hinder" anything, it's the same diameter. My 10/22 shoots subs down to 1050 easily. I've tried to induce failures & can't do it. I'm still getting rid of lower subsonic ammo from the late 80's, no failures of any kind.