Tactical light with switch for AR

[maxicon]

So I ended up getting that Ulzio T-1 Ultrabright CREE LED Flashlight Kit - Weapon Mountable, I posted above from Amazon.com. It is a very sturdy and extremely bright light!!! The mount is nice and simple and the pressure switch tail also has a manual push button which is great. There are 3 cycles on the light a low beam, strobe, and a high beam. all for less than $65 shipped!!! If you are looking for a cost effective alternative to a surefire I would strongly suggest this ULZIO light!!!

That's a tempting looking light if it holds up under recoil. I didn't see details on the user control, though.

Does it cycle through the modes with each push of the button, or do you set the mode and then turn it on and off with the switch?

I love multi-mode lights for task lights, but for tac lights, it's important that it only come on in one mode unless you specifically want the other.

[esskay]

I assume you mean you want the seperate perssure switch pad with a cord that lets you place the on/off functionality away from the light itself?

While that sounds like a thing you would want to have, porfessional operators have gotten away from it.

1) You will constantly be turning the light on when you do not want to (which can get you and others killed if used as a duty weapon or self defense weapon).
2) They get EXTREMELY hot and are only good for a few seconds before they burn your fingers.
3) If something brushes up against them in storage they can catch on fire (always disable your light in storage).
3) They are much more failure prone than end cap switches because of their design limitations.
4) They add a lot of extra cost and you simply don't have the budget to get a good light, a good switch and a good mount.

So you may want to reconsider your game plan. A surefire 6P or G series light in an offset mount would work better and you would be getting SureFire quality within your budget. My only complaint is the entry level lights come with (or atleast used to come with) pressure switches that make you hold them for the light to sight. I much prefer the click on/off solution that came with my Surefire E2D Light...but it was out of your budget. Click on/off end caps are available as an aftermarket upgrade, however. So if you find you want one down the road when your bank account fills up...you can get one.

You may have issues with cheaper kit, but quality pressure switches are GTG and commonly used. But certainly out of the price range stated by the OP!

Example, the Surefire XT07 for the X-series weapon lights is absolutely hard use kit:


It doesn't get hot and is not prone to failure or accidental actuation. Moreover, it has a toggle switch that is protected by a flange to kill the light entirely. I have run mine extensively and it works beautifully. Check one out, you'll see it solves all of the issues you listed ... except the cost... $165 retail price just for the switch!!!

Though there's nothing wrong with running a simple thumb activated setup like you described, it's simple and solid technique. In fact, because I hold my rifle with my support hand way out there, until I get an even longer handguard that gives me extra real estate that's exactly what I'm doing.

There are some additional advantages of using a pressure switch though which include being able to have a consistent method of actuating the light regardless of shooting from strong or support side, and being able to place the switch in a location optimized for how you hold your rifle (i.e. place the kit around your shooting style not the other way around). It particularly lends itself well to people who shoot with a thumb over grip (switch at 12 o'clock = ambidextrous and consistent grip).

You will also see pressure switches commonly used for PEQs, it's difficult to actuate them effectively otherwise.

Surefire makes a dual switch that runs both a white light and a PEQ. It's very cool, check it out in pacrimguru's pic.

[wbrosha]

That's a tempting looking light if it holds up under recoil. I didn't see details on the user control, though.

Does it cycle through the modes with each push of the button, or do you set the mode and then turn it on and off with the switch?

I love multi-mode lights for task lights, but for tac lights, it's important that it only come on in one mode unless you specifically want the other.

A short tap sets the mode and a full click keeps it on! once the mode is set it stay in memory so when the pressure switch is activated it returns to the mode you had previosly set it at you do not have to cycle thru modes. And this sucker is bright!!!!!!!!

[tacticalcity]

Some of you guys are posting suggestions for $500 setups. Read his OP...I think he means $60 max for the entire setup.

I am looking for a decent light with a pressure switch for around $50-60?

I used to use pressure switches. The more courses I took the more and more I realized they were just not as good of an idea for me as click on/off end cap.

Besides, all the issues I mentioned still apply to the higher end switches, including those from SureFire, just not to the same degree as the knockoffs. The light ND issue is especially true of all pressure switches that I have seen, but the design of them (cord and thin pad) means they will be much more failure prone than end caps. Properly positioned on your rifle, a click on/off end cap can be a real joy to use and a much safer option when it comes to NDs.

I am not saying there are never any times when pressure pads are needed or that you cannot find ways around most of their issues. There are times when they are definitely right tool for the job. But 8 times out of 10 when you see how people have their rifles setup and you see how many issues they have and simple click on/off end cap would be smarter for them. It certainly was for me. In the OP's case, especially when you take into account his budget, it just does not make sense to get a pressure pad.

He can get a Surefire G Series light and a really good mount for around $60. Down the road he can upgrade the bulb to an LED for about $35, and if he insists on a pressure switch he can do that too. I personally know SWAT guys who knock down doors every day with that setup and have not had a single issue with it.

MY TACTICAL LIGHT COLLECTION

Since others posted their setups I suppose I should show mine as well. I spent much more money on my light setups than I am recommending the OP do, that was more about EGO than anything else. I had the budget for it, so I did it. But a simple G series light in a simple mount would have served my needs just fine.

- My M4 currently is running a SureFire E2D Light in a Larue Mount. It is my primary rifle so it gets babied.

- My Recon Rifle is currently running a SureFire X200 Weapon Light. I bought the light for use on a handgun, but my current handgun does not have a rail. So for not it has a home on my backup AR.

- My Shotgun is currently running a SureFire 6P with an LED upgrade bulb in a simple 1" ring on a BMT rail mount. I also upgraded end cap to click on/off type. My shotgun is the red headed stepchild of me collection. Most of the accessories on it were things I already had laying around from previous AR builds. I spent the least amount of money on it.

- The light I have on my belt during training courses? An entry level SureFire G Series light with an LED upgraded bulb (not pictured). It is a really great light, and very affordable.

My favorite and the easiest to use is the SureFire E2D Light in the Larue Mount. The reason for that is it has a constant on-off end cap that is far superior to the pressure end cap that came with the 6P and G Series lights, and it is a very light weight setup.

[esskay]

I wasn't making a suggestion to the OP, he already bought that Ulzio setup. I also noted in my post that the Surefire kit I was describing was out of his budget.

I was just expanding on your comments about pressure switches.

While that sounds like a thing you would want to have, porfessional operators have gotten away from it.

1) You will constantly be turning the light on when you do not want to (which can get you and others killed if used as a duty weapon or self defense weapon).
2) They get EXTREMELY hot and are only good for a few seconds before they burn your fingers.
3) If something brushes up against them in storage they can catch on fire (always disable your light in storage).
3) They are much more failure prone than end cap switches because of their design limitations.
4) They add a lot of extra cost and you simply don't have the budget to get a good light, a good switch and a good mount.

Check out the Surefire switches in person, you will see that #1, #2, and your first #3 do not apply to them. Indeed, light discipline at night is VERY important, and the Surefire switch does not turn on with light pressure, you need to make a deliberate action to actuate them. (BTW, technique is also very important for light discipline. You mention using clicky end caps, if you click your light into constant on, you need to be very careful to turn it back off before lowering your weapon lest you just showed your opponent exactly where you are, essentially "drawing a line" back to your position!) They also have kill switches to toggle the light off entirely. They also do not get hot and will not burn your fingers.

Your second #3 is true to some extent, by definition the pressure switch has a cable which is its weak point...I've seen even Surefire's cables get worn down. The switch itself and the attachment to the light are pretty bombproof. BTW, for the X-series lights, you still have the option of utilizing the switch on the light itself if for some reason the cable gets damaged.

Agree with #4 based on the OP's budget. As I noted before, the Surefire pressure switch is expensive! I also concur that cheapo pressure switches are not well-suited for hard use.

I agree on the utility and economy of using a simple set up. I just wanted to point out that not all pressure switches have all the problems you mentioned.

One final thing, no matter what setup you have, use it and train with it in low light and no light because it's a whole 'nother kettle of fish than working in daylight!! And you'll probably find that you need to make adjustments to your setup...

[mspiredm3]

I just got the Fenix TK15 and absolutely love it. Shuts out my buddies Surefire 9P LED and is smaller, has more features, and is cheaper

[415dog!]

The pelican m6 pressure plate fits the G2

[415dog!]

Sorry....the price for the pressure plate is around 20 retail. I have a G2 body with a Titanuim Innovations LED upgrade. Im not sure how long the wire length on the surefire pressure plate is but what i did was used an O ring to wrap around the the tail cap making the wire wrap snug over the handguard.

[tacticalcity]

I wasn't making a suggestion to the OP, he already bought that Ulzio setup. I also noted in my post that the Surefire kit I was describing was out of his budget.

I was just expanding on your comments about pressure switches.



Check out the Surefire switches in person, you will see that #1, #2, and your first #3 do not apply to them. Indeed, light discipline at night is VERY important, and the Surefire switch does not turn on with light pressure, you need to make a deliberate action to actuate them. (BTW, technique is also very important for light discipline. You mention using clicky end caps, if you click your light into constant on, you need to be very careful to turn it back off before lowering your weapon lest you just showed your opponent exactly where you are, essentially "drawing a line" back to your position!) They also have kill switches to toggle the light off entirely. They also do not get hot and will not burn your fingers.

Your second #3 is true to some extent, by definition the pressure switch has a cable which is its weak point...I've seen even Surefire's cables get worn down. The switch itself and the attachment to the light are pretty bombproof. BTW, for the X-series lights, you still have the option of utilizing the switch on the light itself if for some reason the cable gets damaged.

Agree with #4 based on the OP's budget. As I noted before, the Surefire pressure switch is expensive! I also concur that cheapo pressure switches are not well-suited for hard use.

I agree on the utility and economy of using a simple set up. I just wanted to point out that not all pressure switches have all the problems you mentioned.

One final thing, no matter what setup you have, use it and train with it in low light and no light because it's a whole 'nother kettle of fish than working in daylight!! And you'll probably find that you need to make adjustments to your setup...

I wasn't just commenting on your post with regards to the light being out of his price range. And the way you have it setup on your rifle (from what I see) looks to be the smartest way to avoid light NDs. So I am by no means criticizing your build. In fact, I like your build very much. Excellent choice in uppers, and I dig your accessory choices as well. I am huge KAC fan, and love the LMT stock (if you couldn't tell from my own builds). I don't want you to get the idea that I am saying your doing things wrong or anything like that. I am by no means the end all be all expert. I can only share what I personally experienced, and pass on what my buddies who do this for a living have shared with me. If your experiences are different, I can accept that. But I am still going to share my own experiences. Because I experienced them. It isn't a personal insult or anything.

Where we are really disogreeing is a matter of degrees (I think). I am not saying these issues exist in the SureFire switches to anywhere near the same degree as the Chinese cheapo switches. Some of the knockoffs are so much worse that they make SureFire switches look they don't have those issues at all. However, I and many others have experienced these problems with the SureFire switches.

Now, I will say. It has been a long time since I had this setup or even got to play with this kind of setup. So there is more than a good chance SureFire has made even more improvements to there switches since then that I have not had a chance to see first hand. Even back then, they were so much better than the competition that there was no comparison. That said, there are some inherint things in the design requirements that cause these issues. I doubt they will ever be able to make them go away completely. Never the less, there is no question that SureFire is the best of the bread.

On a semi-related note, I cannot tell you how disapointed I am in the X200 handgun light toggle switches. The insight switches are SOOOOOO much better. The insight switches are springy, and have a nice solid click into place, and do not stick. The SureFire switch on the X200 (and presumably the others) is really mushy, sticks a lot, and does not click/lock into place. I was really surprised to see Insight kicking SureFire's rear on that feature. Especially when the Insight lights start at 1/4 the price. Seriously, I was shocked. At first I just thought I had a bad switch. So I had SureFire send a brand new one last week. The new one is just as crappy. I am still going to use the light, since I paid a boat load for it and because there are tons of other features that I love about it. I was just really disapointed with the toggle switch. Normally SureFire delivers the quality in every area of the design. This is the first time that I was not as impressed with their product as should have been for the price tag, and felt their competition made a better product for less. There might be a 100 other things that make the SureFire a better light...but the switch definately is not one of them.