Looking for Night Vision recommendations

[RUSN007]

I'm very new to night vision and looking for recommendations. I know that NV are expensive - so what is the best bang for the buck?

Not ready to spend $3K + but ideally find something around ~$1,500?
Any other recommendations or suggestions much appreciate.

Thanks

[Munny$hot]

For the money it's hard to beat a Gen3 Omni VII PVS7D which can be found for 1500 but you will have to look. The 7s gives you better depth perception vs a mono tube and for me it allows me to be able to drive. Just note some say the can drive with a mono tube but for me it makes me dizzy. You may be able to find a Gen3 M703E ANVS, Gen 2+, or even a Gen3 PVS14 with blems. For durability a 14 is hard to beat since the M703E battery housing is fragile.
If you saved more you could find a Omni VII/VIII for@ 1800-2500 used but at the moment tubes are hard to find due to the 2 conflicts going on right now. I would definitely look at JRHEnterprises, Robert is a good cat and will hook you up with extremely good prices sometimes cheaper then what's advertised on his site.

[9mmContagion]

In that price range I’d look at Sionyx. Sounds like you’re just trying to dip your toe. Keep in mind, there are a lot of other costs that come with Nightvision. Helmets, mounts, lights, lasers, etc. One could spend upwards of $5-6k very easily with just a monocular setup.

You can probably get into the sionyx with a helmet and mount close to $2k. Maybe a little cheaper if you hunt for used gear. Do be aware, though, Sionyx is a digital NV. You will always need an Illuminator. Really not that big of a deal for larping around and dipping your toe in. You will put off an IR signature to those under other Nightvision looking at you. Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions. I’d be glad to help with what I can.

ETA: Nightvision is a dark rabbit hole! (Pun intended) I would definitely urge you to think about cost vs. usage. Do you have somewhere near that you can shoot and train/practice under nods? Are you willing to spend another ~$3k on lights and lasers on top of nods. Or are you just star gazing? All things to take into consideration.

[tacticalcity]

Honestly, in your shoes I would just set the money you have aside and keep squireling more away as needed. If not you will discover you hate what your purchased and will want to sell it (likely for less than you paid) and get something better. I did what you want to do...and regretted it. Quickly upgraded to something actually usable.

Price range is pretty tough to get around when it comes to usable night vision. You really do get what you pay for. The ideal "beginner" setup really is a Gen 3 PVS-14 with auto-gated tubes. That will run you $2500-$3K. There are just too many drawbacks to anything cheaper. Lots of videos on youtube that will explain this better than I can.

The fewer imperfections the more it costs. Mine has two very tiny specs in the tube. Surprised me you can't get them perfect for that price. But considering how expensive they could have been, makes sense. Clarity, battery life, and lack of inclusions are what you are paying for. I paid something like $2800 shipped after tax for mine. It is an OPMOD model from Optics Planet that is no longer made.

You will need a mount. I am running a NOROTOS RHNO II BAYONET surplus mount that was like new. Cost me under $100 off eBay. What I really want a Wilcox mount that runs well north of $500. Which also uses it's own JARM which runs close to $200. Odds are your PVS14 will come with a bayonet style JARM that will work with a NOROTOS RHNO II BAYONET mount.

You'll need a good bump helmet. Skip the ballistic helmet. They are too heavy to enjoy running them. Unless somebody is realistically shooting back, a bump helmet will do. The best fitting (only one that properly fits my huge head) is Team Wendy. Their least expensive bump helmet runs $400 shipped after tax. Some haters out there for this brand because they owner donated money to Clinton back in the day. But the product really can't be beat when it comes to adjustability and quality for the money. If you have a normal size head you'll have a lot more options than I do. You can get something in the $200-$300 range that will actually work properly. Hard head veterans makes an inexpensive one. Never tried it though. Did try their ballistic helmet, which did not have enough adjustment in the chin straps neck to work for my giant head.

An IR/White light is a good addition to your helmet. Night vision needs an IR illuminator to work. You don't want to rely on ambient light alone. While you will likely have an IR illuminator on your weapon having one on the helmet itself is really useful. For example, you may want to use the NODs for something other than shooting. Or you may want to see something really clearly and not point a gun at it. Most decent IR lights offer a white light mode as well. Having a white light on your helmet that you can switch too is helpful for obvious reasons. But remember to flip-up your NODs (which in my case also turns them off) first. White light can damage the tubes. Hence also needing to pony up for a PVS14 that is auto-gated (shuts off to protect the tubes from light). Good IR/White lights are not cheap. But INFORCE mays one that runs about $125-$140 last I checked. Surefire Vampire lights are more like $350-400.

You will also want to look into what lights, optics, lasers you will need to mount to your rifles and pistols to use them effectively with night vision and the laws here in California that apply. Like most CA laws, they are annoying and confusing.

[edgerly779]

I have a low budget atn works out to 100 yards for hogs.

[Prepped and ready]

I have the ATN Thor-4 and its a great unit. Its thermal and it works really well, even in the daylight. Pretty good out to 300yds.

[Munny$hot]

Before you consider any type of digital camera's ie Sionyx, night fox, or anything else you'll find on Amazon you should consider these cons: 1) you'll be looking at a LED rectangular screen with zero depth perception and if you try and navigate with you will end up rolling an ankle or worse. 2) You'll end up spending more money trying to rig it up to a helmet and end up with something that is subpar vs real Gen2+ or Gen3 NV. 3) using IR as a crutch to see when it's starts to get dark is great for you, but bad because anyone else with a Gen2+/Gen3 will be able to easily see and your IR signature from your light from hundreds of meters away, while they will still be able to see just fine without the need for additional lighting. 4) With Night Vision the darker it gets the further digital cameras get left behind.

I started with a Gen2+ 14 and thought this is great, I kept up with other guys with modern Gen3 OMNI VII binos, until we descended into the bottom of a canyon and my buddy said shoot the steel target on the hill 25 yards away and I replied what target. A lot of people get lost chasing the highest FOM/SNR, the lowest EBI etc, but in reality the difference maybe being able to kinda read big lettering on a box vs knowing there is lettering but you can't really make out what it says in near black out conditions. If spending 4,500 on a filmless WP PVS14 with the highest spec floats your boat vs a green phosphor filmed tube with a few small blems for 2,500 and have most of the same capabilities is up to you.

[9mmContagion]

Before you consider any type of digital camera's ie Sionyx, night fox, or anything else you'll find on Amazon you should consider these cons: 1) you'll be looking at a LED rectangular screen with zero depth perception and if you try and navigate with you will end up rolling an ankle or worse. 2) You'll end up spending more money trying to rig it up to a helmet and end up with something that is subpar vs real Gen2+ or Gen3 NV. 3) using IR as a crutch to see when it's starts to get dark is great for you, but bad because anyone else with a Gen2+/Gen3 will be able to easily see and your IR signature from your light from hundreds of meters away, while they will still be able to see just fine without the need for additional lighting. 4) With Night Vision the darker it gets the further digital cameras get left behind.

I started with a Gen2+ 14 and thought this is great, I kept up with other guys with modern Gen3 OMNI VII binos, until we descended into the bottom of a canyon and my buddy said shoot the steel target on the hill 25 yards away and I replied what target. A lot of people get lost chasing the highest FOM/SNR, the lowest EBI etc, but in reality the difference maybe being able to kinda read big lettering on a box vs knowing there is lettering but you can't really make out what it says in near black out conditions. If spending 4,500 on a filmless WP PVS14 with the highest spec floats your boat vs a green phosphor filmed tube with a few small blems for 2,500 and have most of the same capabilities is up to you.

100% agree.

You should also take note that many people get lost chasing high FOM. You?ll quickly learn that you?ll be looking past small blems rather quickly. I have binos and one tube has two small specs. They?re noticeable at first glance, but as soon as I start moving, they quickly disappear.

[tacticalcity]

There are a lot of great deals on used PVS-14s Gen 3 on eBay. This time of year a lot of people unload their old gear to fund new higher end gear, etc. You can find Gen 2 for under $2K. But if can afford $2.5K+ Gen 3 is a better option. I highly recommend getting something auto-gated to protect them from unexpected and accidental bursts of bright white light.

Someone is even auctioning off the same one I own from Optics Planet. It's a hair over $1575.00 right now but I would expect it to go up as the auction gets closer to the end.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145497820344?hash=item21e0588cb8:g:U1UAAOSwadFlWph2&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4KdnUmfzWDLceruKG6gjagNncEzqGzdHztsUYzSG1RrDeYFdF9%2BIhMXjDFXL3%2Bat%2B%2BMhYq8d2jdyh%2FWjWfHTot%2FMVcN5zyDolPo0Lz6fP1deHGXBZhL1%2Fs0bquIWpV9VKJdAlzttQPSm6jpNK6%2BWR75G99aHPGl9yAUKrj2iv1SvidMPOTsllyv3dd%2B%2B9Mjtlf%2BOCP92J5MYUs2A4rRkl80KmsQF8gKaW5XS59tEe9PGjRaFn%2BQ8z2GikeZt28BWAf%2B8Xyh2XiiAxsvyHI60GQTyzaykYcPHJOIjaYWw83f5%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4iX1oKOYw

As for Thermal, it is intriguing but not a substitute for night vision. It is great for hunting, but only an additional tool for self-defense. It does not allow for PID. You see a human shape. But cannot see who that human is the way you can with night vision. Additionally, you cannot see thru windows. They show as a solid blank wall due to the way glass absorbs the cold. So you could walk right by a bad guy and expose yourself to incoming fire because you never saw them behind that window...but they'll see you.

As for IR illuminators and lasers. Better to have and not need. You will want to use them as sparingly as you would a white light. That way if the bad guys have night vision you are not giving away your position. But there will be times when you absolutely need them. The same way there will be times when you absolutely need a white light. The better-quality night vision you have, however, the better it is at using the ambient light and the less dependent it is on an illuminator. Which is what others where hinting at above.

All that said, Gen 2 and Gen2+ are decent. A hell of a lot better than Gen 1...which is all but useless. But Gen 3 tubes will last longer and just work better. And as others have said, there is a wide range of quality even within Gen3. Everything Gen-3 should be more than suitable to get you started. So don't feel bad if you cannot afford the Ferrari of night vision tubes. I can't either.

[hermosabeach]

+1 on not buying a high point unless you want a high point

Nv and thermals are expensive....

It's too high a price point to buy, sell for half and buy again.


TNVC has a lot of fun gear

[tacticalcity]

+1 on not buying a high point unless you want a high point

Nv and thermals are expensive....

It's too high a price point to buy, sell for half and buy again.


TNVC has a lot of fun gear

Stuff that is used but not abused and worn-out holds it's value. After the holidays when people are not scrambling for cash prices will actually go up. The market won't be so flooded.

[sigstroker]

And then there's all the ancillary crap involved. Counterweight for the helmet to balance out the weight of the nods and mount. You might have to change your optic and the mount. Watch a bunch of youtubes on Hop's channel and listen to him complain about everything.

[tacticalcity]

And then there's all the ancillary crap involved. Counterweight for the helmet to balance out the weight of the nods and mount. You might have to change your optic and the mount. Watch a bunch of youtubes on Hop's channel and listen to him complain about everything.

It gets crazy expensive and seems to never end. By adding all the night vision stuff my $1-2K rifles are not $4-5K rifles. My $700-$1K pistols are now $1.5-$2K pistols.

[9mmContagion]

It gets crazy expensive and seems to never end. By adding all the night vision stuff my $1-2K rifles are not $4-5K rifles. My $700-$1K pistols are now $1.5-$2K pistols.

What lasers and lights are you running?

I went with the Holosun IR laser and Modlite IR illuminator for rifle, and Modlite IR illuminator on my primary pistol with a RMR. I didn?t find a laser on the pistol to be very helpful.

So far pretty happy with the Holosun laser. I will one day upgrade to a MAWL, but I?ve splurged too much already on the whole Nightvision setup, as well as plate carrier and battle belt. The rabbit hole never ends lol

[soultwista26]

NV is a different ball game, I fell in to the Night vision world last year with a ab-pitbull 14 gen 3,
Then I upgraded to a decent Bino's for $3500 which is anvis 9 with omni7 & 8 tubes, just fyi all the helmet, mounts, counterweight battery packs is not cheap unless you decided to go get the Chinese mount knockoffs. Also the higher the specs the more $$ you'll spend, on a high spec pvs-14 White Phosphor with 2300+ fom
And 32+ snr will cost around $3-3.5k.


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