Need some help

[pitfighter]

Archives-

Yours will be $300 - see top of list:

http://www.colt.com/Portals/0/colt%20media/publications/Archive%20Properties%202014%20Price%20List.pdf

I'd say get it done, it may (or may not) list whom the customer was, and if it was ordered by a confederate sympathizer, then yes you have a Confederate revolver, and it is a difference in value - both sentimental and monetary.

But, it could have been bought at a trading post, traded by Sherman, sold and stolen by Colonel Mosby before it ended up in your relative's hands, and you would be no closer to proving it

[gunboat]

I think you will find that many if not most revolvers were privately owned both US and CS --
The only difference between civilian and military is a U S marking or a state marking -
I think only the older 1858 models would be CSA marked - no sales to the south after '61 --
Even a U S marked one could have seen confederate service.

You have a very nice weapon there, no matter what its true history -
A write up of its history from the owner may prove valuable at a later date if you ever wish to sell it--
my tuppence

[SonofWWIIDI]

Nice.

And that wood and brass looks amazing for being so old.

[BrokerB]

I would use justa little clp and fine steel wool. It should clean it up good.


Not sure if cold blue the rust spots would look uniform enough. Might just want ro doa cerakot or rattle can it.




I would love to have an old old great functioning pistol. Def. Pay for archive search.

Or you could chrome it? )

[mosinnagantm9130]

Cold blue? Really?

If you want to destroy the value, by all means do anything in the post above me.

[billybob_jcv]

I would use justa little clp and fine steel wool. It should clean it up good.


Not sure if cold blue the rust spots would look uniform enough. Might just want ro doa cerakot or rattle can it.




I would love to have an old old great functioning pistol. Def. Pay for archive search.

Or you could chrome it? )

[peppermintman]

So that's what they call "patina" I always hear about on the Antique Road show Something that old I might not even shoot. Beautiful pistol. Did I read above something about steel wool?! Amazing how someone could give such bad advice. I assume he was joking of course. Clean inside the barrel that's it I think and a nice oil rundown should do.

More pics more pics

[Cactus_Tim]

If you watch "Pawn Stars," you'll see how far the value plunges when you "clean it up."

[jbk]

I would use justa little clp and fine steel wool. It should clean it up good.


Not sure if cold blue the rust spots would look uniform enough. Might just want ro doa cerakot or rattle can it.




I would love to have an old old great functioning pistol. Def. Pay for archive search.

Or you could chrome it? )

This would be the oldest gun i own. Lol, I thought about asking about using steel wool on the gun to mess with you guys some. You guys have been to helpful I deciesed not to. I know not to mess with finish. I even told the man giving it to me, when he first told me about it. Do not clean it up. I was curious however about maybe oiling it some to keep the finish from getting worst. Would I oil just rub points? Oil the hole guns? Don't to either, take it to local gunsmith ( who has already tolde to bring it in for him to see) and let him tell me?

[Bainter1212]

Nothing wrong with a little oil. Do NOT clean it with anything that will alter the finish. A very gentle wipe down with oil would be appropriate.

[pitfighter]

One of the biggest mistakes I encounter with old guns is someone well meaning attempting to take it down with the wrong size screwdriver. They were not made from terribly hard metal and it takes very little to "bugger" the heads.
This goes for nearly all old guns, but especially old revolvers.

There is definitely a trend amongst the novice gun collector, to race to strip and disassemble his new found acquisition, as if there might be additional treasure lurking between the wood and metal - with K98's the collectors look for that original grease that bonded the wood to the metal - leave it alone, move slowly.

The take down wedge on an old Colt is the same, it may not ever achieve the same seal, after removal - don't work the action unnecessarily, and contrary to the quantifiable retards on pawn stars there is no increase in value from firing the pistol, a moron with basic gun skills can tell you whether it would fire or not, without actually having to do it.
They do that whole "does it fire" spiel to make their wretched TV more appealing to the mouth breathers.

Leave it alone, a little oil is OK, it doesn't need to have been oiled to have stayed nice, just kept away from the elements.

Sounds like you know all this - but throwing it out there, in case anyone reading this thread ever sells me a firearm, and I can get it just a little nicer than otherwise.

Half a dozen classic arms I bought on Calguns showed signs of being taken down by a chimp with a machete - could have been avoided so easily

[kendog4570]

... However the museum expert he had look at it did say it was a civilian model.

That's big Maybe. Yours has a frame cut-out for a shoulder stock, and 4 screws on the left side. Cant see the right side clear enough in your pic, but should be a 4th screw there also. Is there a dished out cut at the bottom of the grip frame near the heel? Commercial 1860's were not cut for a shoulder stock. It might be possible for a 4 screw frame to make it into commercial distribution. What is the barrel address? Civvies were marked with the late New York address. Most 1860's were martial guns, and most of those marked with the Hartford address. Check for mixed serial numbers. Very common for US Army guns to be mismatched.

Either way, that's a nice looking Colt and you can ship and receive it with no legal issues.

If only it could talk!

[CSACANNONEER]

I would use justa little clp and fine steel wool. It should clean it up good.


Not sure if cold blue the rust spots would look uniform enough. Might just want ro doa cerakot or rattle can it.




I would love to have an old old great functioning pistol. Def. Pay for archive search.

Or you could chrome it? )

Steel wool? Chrome? Cold blue? Are you for real? Any of those will turn a $2000 pice of history into a $300-$500 pos parts gun.

[kendog4570]

Steel wool? Chrome? Cold blue? Are you for real? Any of those will turn a $2000 pice of history into a $300-$500 pos parts gun.

Is there something in the stolen NorCal water in socal that makes you boys gullible??

[jbk]

One of the biggest mistakes I encounter with old guns is someone well meaning attempting to take it down with the wrong size screwdriver. They were not made from terribly hard metal and it takes very little to "bugger" the heads.
This goes for nearly all old guns, but especially old revolvers.

There is definitely a trend amongst the novice gun collector, to race to strip and disassemble his new found acquisition, as if there might be additional treasure lurking between the wood and metal - with K98's the collectors look for that original grease that bonded the wood to the metal - leave it alone, move slowly.

The take down wedge on an old Colt is the same, it may not ever achieve the same seal, after removal - don't work the action unnecessarily, and contrary to the quantifiable retards on pawn stars there is no increase in value from firing the pistol, a moron with basic gun skills can tell you whether it would fire or not, without actually having to do it.
They do that whole "does it fire" spiel to make their wretched TV more appealing to the mouth breathers.

Leave it alone, a little oil is OK, it doesn't need to have been oiled to have stayed nice, just kept away from the elements.

Sounds like you know all this - but throwing it out there, in case anyone reading this thread ever sells me a firearm, and I can get it just a little nicer than otherwise.

Half a dozen classic arms I bought on Calguns showed signs of being taken down by a chimp with a machete - could have been avoided so easily

I plan on just a cool display piece that's it. I'm not tearing it down, the oil was just to stop any pitting asich as possible. I have welded for going on 12 years. I have come to view rust as cancer. However I am novice and I know that, i am always learning. I am not going to do anything (including oil it) other than marvel At it until I have guys who I know know these guns and a trusted gunsmith tell me what to do. It looks pretty good for being aroun since 1862. A few weeks or months won't change a thing. Any more advice is always appreciated.