Around $600 sounds about right. I built one a few years ago. They're not only pretty accurate, but cheap to shoot too, and the coolness factor in clear when you take it to the range.
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Sten semi
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Because milsurp. -
Thank you.
I'm working on a Sten MKII (which I like better)
Photos here:
"Quando omni flunkus moritati"
when all else fails play deadComment
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I think you need to understand Federal law a little better. An "old serial number" doesn't cut it. There are several pieces of information which are required to be on it including your name, city and state, caliber and a SN. There are size and depth requirements too.I'm trying to clear a few firearms to make a little "spending money". It's a fun firearm, but it's one that doesn't really fit what I'm doing.
Cost would make me decide if this is one of them that I might part with. I've seen one go for around $600 but over a year ago. Price may have gone down or up....I don't know. At that price, I might put it up. We'll see.
The piece has the "old" serial number still on it, so selling it I doubt is going to be a problem. The old serial number was on the magazine port. The firearm is painted as it was when I started on it (in the kit). It was not "blued". The MKII are usually blued. One of the reasons I'm also considering selling this one is, I'm about 75% finished doing a MKII (which I really like).
Thank you guys for the import.
PS: this is not an auction and was not intended to be. I just needed a price so I could list it in the "for sale" section on the forums. Which is where I will sell it. I prefer to sell it locally....just easier on this piece.NRA Certified Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun and Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor
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KM6WLVComment
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Please post pics of your build progress. I for one would love to see it.Comment
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I doubt you'd ever find one for $600. $700-800 is a more fair market value considering the cost of the build and time to finish it.
If someone wants one for less, they should just go build it themselves. It takes some art and skill to get one to run 100%.
And ideally it should be built on the Indianapolis Ordnance system. The SAS3 kit SUCKS. I speak from experience.
The Welding part elevates the skill needed over an AK build, or an AR "assembly"
-DaveComment
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Exactly. and it is an IO parts firearm. It took me a while to get it to cycle correct....and one round did not cycle all the way in because I screwed up the trimming of the springs. It went part way in and when (like an idiot) I pulled the trigger, it fired and came out the side exit port.I doubt you'd ever find one for $600. $700-800 is a more fair market value considering the cost of the build and time to finish it.
If someone wants one for less, they should just go build it themselves. It takes some art and skill to get one to run 100%.
And ideally it should be built on the Indianapolis Ordnance system. The SAS3 kit SUCKS. I speak from experience.
The Welding part elevates the skill needed over an AK build, or an AR "assembly"
-Dave
I guess I should explain. You trim the springs to make it cycle correctly when first fired. I loaded one round at a time at first. I had to finish the cycle by hand at first, so you trim the springs and try again until it cycles all the way. Then I loaded a couple rounds. Pulled the trigger, it cycled and the next round was correctly in the battery. I did this a few time checking between each round. After it seemed correct, I loaded it the last time with 4 rounds. I fired 3 rounds off one after the other. On the fourth, it did not cycle the round correctly into the chamber and was left half way out and I did not check it (feeling too confident). That was an idiotic mistake. when the trigger was pulled, it fired 1/2 out of battery and the bullet ended 1/2 down the barrel, and the case exploded out the side of the exit port. Very dangerous. I contacted IO and they told me I was just a little weak (cut too much off) on one of the two springs. And maybe I got a round that was loaded just a little light. Between the two problems (light load and on the boarder line of the cycling) the problem showed up. I got a new spring and corrected the problem. Now you can fire it semi all day long with no issues at all.
CSACANNONEER:
I do know the Federal law. I made reference to the original serial number still on the magazine port (and would probably use that number). That number with the proper information will be transferred to the "receiver" part before I sell it (with the proper size font and depth). So it will be perfectly legal. I just don't see any reason to do that until I decide to sell it. It is easily ID'd if needed. I have other markings on it also.
I also put a small rod in the hole just behind the receiver (in the rear stock) It is tough to get your thumb in that hole, but I didn't want any problems with Calif on that being a "thumb hole" making it necessary to put a bullet button on it. Now it is clearly non featured and is free of the requirement of a bullet button. Maybe over kill but tough.
It has the longer barrel so it is a rifle and not a "pistol".
I just don't think I need a MKIII and a MKII both.
.Last edited by Dolk; 06-22-2016, 7:26 AM."Quando omni flunkus moritati"
when all else fails play deadComment
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Sten Mk III!
Here is my Mk III, built from a IO semi-auto kit.
Parkerized with fake silencer. Great fun!
I'm thinking $800-$900 range seems fair for a cool rifle!Last edited by Spartan301; 08-19-2016, 4:11 PM.U.S. Army/Sgt./67N (Aviation/1st CAV DIV, FT. HOOD/2nd INF DIV, S. KOREA/NTC FLT DET, FT. IRWIN) Veteran '81-'86Comment
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Dolk-
I've built enough that I always trim my springs a bit long, but short enough they can't go into coil bind with the bolt fully back.
Then, leave the bolt racked back for like a week or two, so the springs start to take on a set. Then shoot it, see what it does, and decide if coils need to be trimmed.
This system let me get the springs perfect on the 2nd try.
Both of mine (Mk2 and Mk3) used to have SAS internals, then got fully rebuilt into IO guns.
If you are using weld alone to hold the trunions in place, I recommend a TIG welder. I originally used MIG on my Mk2, but the front trunion welds failed. Randall TIGged the thing up, and it's held since.
-DaveComment
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I always wondered if the springs "weakened" a bit from the one test firing to the next and that is what caused the "lack of spring tension" and failed to load the bullet completely into battery.
Well, anyway, I did get them to adjust good now.
Thanks for the info, now for the hard part to decide if I want to sell this thing or not. With the other MKII coming up, I think the MKIII is on it's way out.
PS: All my trunions are rivited in like the original MKIII were. Not welded.
On the MKII I'm going to rivet those in also (like original), and sweat solder them in also (like the originals were also)."Quando omni flunkus moritati"
when all else fails play deadComment
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That is exactly why the springs weakened- I noticed they all take a set- SAS3 worst of all, IO to a lesser extent.
I welded AND used hammer rivets to set my MK3 trunion. The rivets are mostly for looks. Problem is, it's near impossible to get a good standard rivet set in the nose cap, since you can't get behind it. Easier to do a couple TIG plug welds, then use the rivets to look right
-DaveComment
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Occasionally you'll see an MP40 kit on Gun Brokers, but they are usually expensive. M3 kits come up sometimes too. The problem is I don't know of anyone that makes semi-auto conversion parts for either. You also run into the problem of them being SBRs. You either have to build and register them with BATHE in a free state or build them with a 16" barrel.You can do anything with enough time and money, but my guess is these 2 projects don't make sense.Because milsurp.Comment
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