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Exactly , i just boil up a kettle full of water and pour it down gas tube/barrel , and put disassembled bcg in a bowl + boiling water. Followed by dry patches, then oiled. Dry off and oil every thing else. May need to do the buffer tube/fcg too. No changes so far with the FCG.
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I just pee on mine.Comment
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Is it really that hard to just buy the non-corrosive stuff? Yes it costs a little more but the peace of mind is worth it. And an added bonus is that you do not need to detail clean your rifle after every range trip.
Oppressors can tyrannize only when they achieve a standing army, an enslaved press, and a disarmed populace. -- James Madison
The Constitution shall never be construed to authorize Congress to prevent the people of the United States, who are peaceable citizens, from keeping their own arms. -- Samuel Adams, Debates and Proceedings in the Convention of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, 86-87 (Pearce and Hale, eds., Boston, 1850)Comment
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Weapons Case Hotwire Foam Cutting
We can't help you ignore yourself. - CGNDestruction is the way of life, destruction, mayhem, havoc, strife. - Bobby BlitzComment
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It really is just a few extra steps of cleaning. No reason to soak the entire rifle. Hot or boiling water through the bore and on parts exposed to the gases, followed by normal cleaning, as has already been suggested by many here.
One thing to watch out for is the flash hider or muzzle break. I managed to freeze my mb onto my AK years ago, I think because a little water got under the threads. It doesn't take much corrosion to make those suckers a real challenge to break free. I learned to take it off when cleaning. Harder to do with an AR, so after cleaning some blasts of compressed air and some WD40 are a good idea to make sure you clear that out. In fact, compressed air and WD40 are good steps to take after the water, prior to the normal cleaning, just to get any little remaining water out of nooks and crannies. I put a thin coat of grease on the threads now, too. If you do get it frozen, Kroil is a huge help.Originally posted by CSACANNONEERComment
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Weapons Case Hotwire Foam Cutting
We can't help you ignore yourself. - CGNDestruction is the way of life, destruction, mayhem, havoc, strife. - Bobby BlitzComment
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For real I use sweets 7.62 it's made for cleaning corrosive ammo , it's strong so be ware if you have a painted surface it will remove it!Comment
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Why the heck would anyone shoot corrosive ammo?
Ammo is to a gun as tires are to a car. Crappy ammo is simply doesn't make sense, and corrosive ammo is universally crap. It's not that the corrosive primers make the ammo bad, it's just that nobody makes good corrosive primer ammo. You can save a few cents a round buying corrosive and/or steel case ammo, but there is no way for you to get a great shooting rifle with that ammo.Comment
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Spoken from a position of complete and utter ignorance!
Excellent ammo including match quality has been made with corrosive primers and steel cases...sometimes both and in many, many different cartridges.
There is no 5.45 that is not steel cased. The milsurp ammo is as good or better than current production commercial ammo. I will venture a guess that you have zero experience with this cartridge.
Also, your analogy to tires on a car doesn't make any sense.Originally posted by CSACANNONEERComment
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Corrosive ammo is nothing to be concerned about. Simply wash with water. Some people suggest Windex, others talk about using dish detergent. Others say just plain old water. The key, I believe is to do it soon after firing. You don't have to clean within minutes, but a few hours and you are good to go.
BTW, I think the MilSurp corrosive ammo is a bit hotter AND more accurate than the typical Wolf, Tula, etc. Just my $.02. That and another $1.98 will get you a cup of coffee.Comment
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