Exile Machine Backfin 3D printer files

[crufflers]

I hear he has the hammer head grip too, if anyone is interested

Off topic, how do you like the LK5? I was thinking about getting one to print some helmets in one piece.

Nice! Hahah. The LK5-Pro is really great, and a bargain. I am still on the same hot end and nozzle that came with it. I guess the weak piece of it is the filament out sensor. There is a filament guide that should be installed ASAP and it does comes with a spare filament sensor which is nice, but I think I have swapped them out three times. Support will typically send you one for free - most of the companies will do that for you if you open a ticket, chat, or email.

I have a Chiron, and the extra Z height is only a real plus if you decide to print 450mm tall... they are both large printers and the LK5-Pro typically looks sharper and has a better Cura driver IMHO. LK5-Pro also resumes a lot better than the Chiron after power outs. The glass bed on the Chiron is significantly better even though they are the same type that should stick well when hot and release instantly when cold. The Longer has a more problematic bed. Overall I would recommend the Longer, plus it is about $50 cheaper IIRC. Also, it is significantly easier to place the LK5-Pro than the Chiron... the footprint is that much bigger. The Chiron footprint is annoying.

Both printers went 24/7 for months, only stopping if I was asleep or not home or the project was cooling on the bed before removal... the Chiron had more downtime due to hot ends being replaced. I'd rather replace a filament sensor than a hot end but honestly they cost about the same unless you get them free or upgrade them. I have a Volcano I will install on the Chiron sometime, but the stock one which is the 2nd I have installed IIRC, is working for now... tends to be more fragile than the Longer. AnyCubic Chiron has two Z steppers, but the Longer more than keeps up in quality like I said.

[C.G.]

All right Cruflfers, now you did it. Because of you, I"ll have to print one out and since I don't have a MIAD, I'll have to get one of those as well.

[crufflers]

I don't know how these springs will work printed in PLA... they seem to fit OK printed 90% (scaled down 10%)... I'd experiment with 90-95% size with something flexible from the first few batches I tested... they are too thin for PLA and break so far. Might grab the TPU Nylon tomorrow and test.

[crufflers]

All right Cruflfers, now you did it. Because of you, I"ll have to print one out and since I don't have a MIAD, I'll have to get one of those as well.

Functional prints are fun though. My Deadpool busts just sit there looking cool.

[Scotty]

[crufflers]

Yeah, adding walls can help. The infill and infill pattern does add strength to the structure. It is easy enough to do a vase print with as many walls as you like. Try it and compare. You WILL run in to problems with overhangs causing errors or gaps if there is not enough infill to print on. You are basically working with a computer controlled hot glue gun.

Another polymer that gets soft AF with heat is KYDEX and that is widely used with CA compliance fins. Kydex form temps are 365-400 F. Standard PLA working temps are 374 F - 428 F. I think that puts it in a useable range, but there are other materials available. If it turns rubbery at 135 F that is no bueno but you are actually gripping the MIAD. The prints I did so far seem strong AF with default number of walls and 30% infill. Maybe ABS with Tg at 221 F would be good. As far as the spring... a formed/bent flat steel spring would be a lot better than nylon IMHO. There was a reason the original ones gave us so many issues and wore out so fast.

What was the original Exile Backfin printed in (filament material) ?

[Scotty]

I print tooling and fixtures at work including sheetmetal forming tools. I've experimented with what works and doesn't work, including putting parts on the Instron.

374F is the melting temperature of PLA, not the Tg which is when it gets soft. Throw some parts in you car on a hot day, you'll see your parts deform.

[crufflers]

I print tooling and fixtures at work including sheetmetal forming tools. I've experimented with what works and doesn't work, including putting parts on the Instron.

374F is the melting temperature of PLA, not the Tg which is when it gets soft. Throw some parts in you car on a hot day, you'll see your parts deform.

What do you think about the spring. How expensive would it be to produce a batch of flat Backfin retention springs out of spring steel?

[crufflers]

I have a spool of TPU/Nylon/CF and supposedly it resists to 120C... I have no idea if it would be rigid or if it'll ruin my cheap nozzles.

[Scotty]

What do you think about the spring. How expensive would it be to produce a batch of flat Backfin retention springs out of spring steel?

More than you want to spend. Machine shops charge typically $150/hr. Most of the cost is in the setup time.

In terms of stiffness, PLA is the stiffest. Nylon is pretty flexible. The CF Nylon are stiffer than the base nylon, but the CF particles also make it weaker because it is essentially creating little voids.

[67Cuda]

What do you think about the spring. How expensive would it be to produce a batch of flat Backfin retention springs out of spring steel?

Do you have the dimensions of one that they use? Outside Diameter, length and wire diameter?
McMaster-Carr should have something close.

[Yugo]

I have made 6 of exhiles original grips and only one of them was ABS rest were PLA ALL of the PLAs broke (just from handling not even shooting) the ABS I have man handled and still good (its like at least 3 years old)

Maybe having only the fin and not the whole grip will be ok with PLA just sharing my experience.

[crufflers]

Do you have the dimensions of one that they use? Outside Diameter, length and wire diameter?
McMaster-Carr should have something close.

I will have to measure with a caliper of see if I can get the info out of Cura, but these are the springs.





They were designed to compress and insert into this square hole to provide the detent to pop into the retaining square on the MIAD Grip... basically just keeps it from sliding off. I think more retention like 3M outdoor tape or epoxy should be used in CA anyway... the original nylon springs never worked well for very long.

The way the spring is designed, you would open the storage compartment on the MIAD to press the button and release... seems like if we can print these as needed we could also make that spring button tab part of the 3D fin print... just an attached tab that may wear and break off eventually (just copy MAGPUL's design for their backstrap retention).



Seems like it would be doable to bend steel pieces by hand for a few pieces when needed. But that's moot if you make it permanent one-piece with epoxy to MIAD.



I will say, the original Backfin is fragile. One of my take-offs just cracked when I was pressing on the thumb rest feeling rigidity. The new ones I printed from PLA+ are a lot stronger than the ones I bought. Thumb rest wants to crack along the print seams (another reason infill helps a lot). I don't think I can break the new ones I just printed, but like Scotty said, the temp resistance for PLA is low. Might still be useable if the heavy lifting is done by the MIAD itself.

This is fun to play around with but for most people, the Visms or similar are a better option - they already come as a super strong, rigid, one-piece grip with a useable if not perfect thumb rest.



I have one of them installed and three sitting around in-case I use them. They are solid.

[67Cuda]

I thought the spring was a regular spring. I'll figure out something when I get there.
The Visms look good, except the fin is not offset. Deal breaker for me.
I think I'll stick with the Exile since it will be a range toy unless something serious happens.
Then the Hogue goes back on with the turn of a screw driver.

[67Cuda]

I have made 6 of exhiles original grips and only one of them was ABS rest were PLA ALL of the PLAs broke (just from handling not even shooting) the ABS I have man handled and still good (its like at least 3 years old)

I have ABS too. I haven't printed with it yet because I've read that it should be printed in a closed environment for heat.
I'll try it regardless for this Exile grip.