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Why does my 700 rust like a pig?!
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Test of best rust-proofing products for corrosion protection, anti-rust, tool and gun storage. Breakfree, Break-Free CLP, Corrosion-X, Corrosion X, Eexoz, FP-10, FP10, Sheath, Mobil 1, Militech, Rem-Oil, Rig, Grease, Cosmoline, Slip 2000, Tetra tested. Salt spray tests on rust preventatives. Also dessicants, goldenrod, Vapor, Bore-Store silicon bags for storage. 6mm BR Benchrest precision shooting. Load Data, Message Boards, Dies, gunsmiths. Reloading, shooting, hunting, and varminting.Comment
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I know exactly how you feel. =[ I took my SPS out to Sparks, NV to do some long range in a light rain. Even though I wiped most of it down before putting it back into the bag it wasn't good enough. When I returned home to clean it up there were surface rust spots all over the bolt handle. Thankfully, most of it came off... but the whole experience was a bit unsettling.Comment
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You hit the nail on the head I think.
Attached FilesI need to think of a clever thing here.Comment
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Hanko, hey buddy, thanks for taking the time to reply to my post, but your responses make me think that you missed my point...
My only point is that with minimal effort, preventing rust is not hard to do...
I agree that black oxide that Remy uses on the SPS line is very likely as cheap as they can do it...it doesn't protect the metal underneath very well at all, so some minimal maintenance care is required.
But yet I've taken bare steel guns into the field, and used them in competition, sometimes for years at a time in all types of weather with no rust issues...both both rifles and pistols. Folks think they're stainless, and they don't have any rust issues because I take a few minutes to maintain them. If I'm going to be into some wet weather for a few weeks, I might even paint them...they don't rust that way either, and they look really cool too.
If I can take a Remy out of the box that will shoot and I don't have to wrench the barrel off for a while, I figure I'm ahead of the game, but that doesn't happen often.
I be just as happy if Remy shipped those out with no finish at all and put that extra $5 they saved into a better barrel...that would probably double what they do invest into their barrels, so it might be pretty good!Comment
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My original post was intended to be an encouragement to those who, like the OP, seem to be having issues with rust, and can't seem figure out why that is so; and when taken as a whole, the entire post is a reasonably complete argument to that end.
A reader may feel that statement is indeed Brilliant. or not...
But my original statement is:
"If you want a more maintenance free gun go with stainless or get it coated.
But with at least minimum care you won't have a problem."
The issue seems to be folks having too high of an expectation for such a low priced product. When an SPS can be had for somewhere in the neighborhood of $300, some seem to think they are maintenance free as well...they're not!
Yes, I understand the point you are making that it's an obvious concept, and is perhaps too obvious to some...but maybe not to others. I think it makes more sense in the original form, as it is, at least, a complete statement!
What doesn't make sense to me is folks buying a $300 Remington rifle and not understanding why it doesn't have the same quality of finish, or require the same level of maintenance as the ones they sell for $1200.
That's the point lying there between the lines.Last edited by Top Cat; 01-24-2015, 6:27 PM.Comment
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I think the top barrel is stainless?
It's easier to get a smooth finish on a stainless barrel, but Yes, Sako does a nice job on their barrels for the money, on everything they make from metal at least...but I've had barrels worse looking than the lower one that shot sub-moa.
You can't predict how a barrel will shoot by how it looks, or at least I can't.Last edited by Top Cat; 01-24-2015, 6:34 PM.Comment
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Sorry if I missed your point, but I do agree with you.Hanko, hey buddy, thanks for taking the time to reply to my post, but your responses make me think that you missed my point...
My only point is that with minimal effort, preventing rust is not hard to do...
I agree that black oxide that Remy uses on the SPS line is very likely as cheap as they can do it...it doesn't protect the metal underneath very well at all, so some minimal maintenance care is required.
But yet I've taken bare steel guns into the field, and used them in competition, sometimes for years at a time in all types of weather with no rust issues...both both rifles and pistols. Folks think they're stainless, and they don't have any rust issues because I take a few minutes to maintain them. If I'm going to be into some wet weather for a few weeks, I might even paint them...they don't rust that way either, and they look really cool too.
If I can take a Remy out of the box that will shoot and I don't have to wrench the barrel off for a while, I figure I'm ahead of the game, but that doesn't happen often.
I be just as happy if Remy shipped those out with no finish at all and put that extra $5 they saved into a better barrel...that would probably double what they do invest into their barrels, so it might be pretty good!
I've a bring-back 98k duv 42 that fil brought back from ww ii...with essentially no finish. I've had it 10 years or so. Zero rust and all I do after shooting is a rub down with a bit of clp.
It's a bit like buying a Mossberg and complaining of a sloppy fore end...they're cheap. You can't expect the solid feeling of one to an Ithaca or Browning gun.My original post was intended to be an encouragement to those who, like the OP, seem to be having issues with rust, and can't seem figure out why that is so; and when taken as a whole, the entire post is a reasonably complete argument to that end.
A reader may feel that statement is indeed Brilliant. or not...
But my original statement is:
"If you want a more maintenance free gun go with stainless or get it coated.
But with at least minimum care you won't have a problem."
The issue seems to be folks having too high of an expectation for such a low priced product. When an SPS can be had for somewhere in the neighborhood of $300, some seem to think they are maintenance free as well...they're not!
Yes, I understand the point you are making that it's an obvious concept, and is perhaps too obvious to some...but maybe not to others. I think it makes more sense in the original form, as it is, at least, a complete statement!
What doesn't make sense to me is folks buying a $300 Remington rifle and not understanding why it doesn't have the same quality of finish, or require the same level of maintenance as the ones they sell for $1200.
That's the point lying there between the lines.
Same with 870's...get the Turner cheap special instead of a Wingmaster and expect no issues.
True wealth is time. Time to enjoy life.
Life's journey is not to arrive safely in a well preserved body, but rather to slide in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "holy schit...what a ride"!!
Heaven goes by favor. If it went by merit, you would stay out and your dog would go in. Mark Twain
A man's soul can be judged by the way he treats his dog. Charles DoranComment
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My safe is located in my garage and it gets really cold at night where I live. To prevent rusting I made a "hot locker" out of my safe. Similar theory what surveyors use for their equipment. I installed a trouble light w at 25W bulb into my Winchester Safe to act as a dehumidifier. From what I read as long as the inside air is warmer than the outside air the humidity will be forced to dissipate out, thru and around the non air tight door.
I took a punch, started a little dent on the lower side, and just drilled a hole in the bottom side of the safe. I disconnected the trouble light cord from the trouble light base, ran the cord thru the hole I drilled into the safe, and reconnected it.
I then put a timer on the trouble light that I got from the local hardware store so it will kick on before sunset and off around 8am. I set the trouble light on a fireplace brick just so the heat would absorb into the brick and add to the warmth retention. I tried all the absorber junk and never did the trick. The trouble light solved all the problems...no more rusting.
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Here is a photo with the trouble light off so you can see it sitting on the brick that absorbs the heat and helps retain more warmth in the safe on very cold nights that we been having.
Last edited by USMC_SgtMaj; 01-25-2015, 1:01 PM.Comment
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That is important if your safe is in the garage and sees large temp swings.
For those who are not aware, there is a product called the Goldenrod De-Humidifier available that is a low wattage version of your system.
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I got rust......on the bolt handle. No where else....
Sent from my DROID RAZR using TapatalkOriginally posted by Kestryll..you're kind of a sad excuse for an attorney...Originally posted by Libertarian777...Don't pick either side....Comment
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How about some cosmoline. But seriously I need to check my SPS now as have not even looked at it in over a year.Comment
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My $300 Big 5 30.06 shoots 1/2 MOA 
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