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Clamp-on Muzzle Break
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NRA Life Member
Glock Armorer
Colt Armorer
FFL 03 + COE -
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How many posters here have actually tried one?Lynn Dragoman, Jr.
Southwest Regional Director
Unlimited Range Shooters Association (URSA)
www.unlimitedrange.org
Not a commercial business.
URSA - Competition starts at 2000 yards!Comment
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I have. The only ones that really work have some sort of lug to bear against like the US M1 carbine attachments. Badger FTE works too, but it is also threaded so it really doesn't count.Comment
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I considered one for a Saiga, as to get it threaded would not only require threading the barrel but swapping the front sight out. When looking into them I changed my mind due only to the extra basically useless weight the clamp on system adds to make it secure. A lot of weight at the worst place on the rifle. I decided against it. (so I have not actually used one)Comment
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Stix, KenDog4570 threaded my Saiga for a PWS brake - didn't need to pull the front sight.
Send him a PM?Comment
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I put one on a K31. Looked cool but moved POI a lot. Removed it.Comment
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Originally posted by sfarchitectThe days of scared old white people, terrified that life and the world has passed them by running America is coming to a close.Comment
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Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Handguns: www.handgunbarrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Most work done while you wait on a scheduled shop visit.Comment
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There are a bunch of different variations in Saiga barrels/front sights.
Yours may have been different from the more common ones.
The common ones have a sleeve extending from the front sight that covers the section of barrel where threads would be cut.

Military barrels already HAVE threads under the sleeve.
Most saiga barrels are commercial spec though and those don't have threads.
The easiest way to thread them is to press the whole front sight off the barrel, press it on to an arbor and cut the sleeve shorter.
While the FSB is off the barrel, the barrel gets threaded.
Then, the FSB is pressed back on, and the threads are accessible due to shortening of the sleeve.Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Handguns: www.handgunbarrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Most work done while you wait on a scheduled shop visit.Comment
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I will agree that a threaded barrel is the way to go but I must disagree when some say a clamp won't hold. I made my own clamp version of the JP recoil eliminator to see how good they worked. I tried it on at least 5 rifles and it never flew off. 100's of rounds and 100% performance. It worked but it was ugly.Comment
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Kinda the reason I had to ask.
A clamp will constrict the bore on a barrel yet everyone here is shooting them downrange.Lynn Dragoman, Jr.
Southwest Regional Director
Unlimited Range Shooters Association (URSA)
www.unlimitedrange.org
Not a commercial business.
URSA - Competition starts at 2000 yards!Comment
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I prefer doing it correctly and having the barrel threaded. But if that not an option and you have to have a brake. The Witt brake works excellent! A big plus it's made for your barrel.
Take a measure at the muzzle, and 1 1/2" back from the muzzle. the clamp on Witt brake is then made for those measurements.
I have a Witt clamp brake on a 300WM. I am so impressed with that brake, on my new build I will probably get the threaded version and have my barrel threaded.
There is a correct way and a way to get by. I prefer the correct way, but you will get by no problems with a Clamp on by Witt Machining.Comment
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