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Clamp-on Muzzle Break

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  • dogrunner
    replied
    Originally posted by kendog4570
    I have. The only ones that really work have some sort of lug to bear against like the US M1 carbine attachments. Badger FTE works too, but it is also threaded so it really doesn't count.

    And those, both flash hider and brake, vibrate loose after a number of rounds....beat hell out of the rear of the front sight.......especially bad on the full auto versions...........ask me how I know!!!!

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  • APeter001
    replied
    BRAKE not "break"
    very important distinction though both *words* 'sound' the same the action of your barrel "breaking" vs. braking you will never forget.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kodachrome
    replied
    Only ones I would trust were the ones used on M-1 carbines-recoil check:


    Also I've used ones made for the SKS, twist on variation AK-47 style:


    My old neighbor put a muzzle break on one of his rifles(can't remember what
    type) it was not aligned properly and did end up shooting it down range
    Good luck

    Leave a comment:


  • ar15barrels
    replied
    Originally posted by wcoastpi
    So it's $275 for a brake where you don't need to thread the barrel.
    Or, you can get a Ross Schuler brake for $45 and spend $100 on threading and timing.
    My simple math says that is $145 total.

    I don't understand what you are getting for the extra $130 for the clamp-on brake.

    Leave a comment:


  • wcoastpi
    replied
    Anyone try one of these;





    Over 13 years providing high-quality custom muzzle brakes. Get the accuracy you need with Grizzly Gunworks.


    Videos:

    Leave a comment:


  • mike.h
    replied
    I have the Witt Machine clamp on brake on my heavy barrel R700 308... works pretty good

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  • boomer135
    replied
    I prefer doing it correctly and having the barrel threaded. But if that not an option and you have to have a brake. The Witt brake works excellent! A big plus it's made for your barrel.

    Take a measure at the muzzle, and 1 1/2" back from the muzzle. the clamp on Witt brake is then made for those measurements.

    I have a Witt clamp brake on a 300WM. I am so impressed with that brake, on my new build I will probably get the threaded version and have my barrel threaded.

    There is a correct way and a way to get by. I prefer the correct way, but you will get by no problems with a Clamp on by Witt Machining.

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  • LynnJr
    replied
    Kinda the reason I had to ask.
    A clamp will constrict the bore on a barrel yet everyone here is shooting them downrange.

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  • challenger
    replied
    I will agree that a threaded barrel is the way to go but I must disagree when some say a clamp won't hold. I made my own clamp version of the JP recoil eliminator to see how good they worked. I tried it on at least 5 rifles and it never flew off. 100's of rounds and 100% performance. It worked but it was ugly.

    Leave a comment:


  • ar15barrels
    replied
    Originally posted by killshot44
    Stix, KenDog4570 threaded my Saiga for a PWS brake - didn't need to pull the front sight.

    Send him a PM?
    There are a bunch of different variations in Saiga barrels/front sights.
    Yours may have been different from the more common ones.
    The common ones have a sleeve extending from the front sight that covers the section of barrel where threads would be cut.



    Military barrels already HAVE threads under the sleeve.
    Most saiga barrels are commercial spec though and those don't have threads.
    The easiest way to thread them is to press the whole front sight off the barrel, press it on to an arbor and cut the sleeve shorter.
    While the FSB is off the barrel, the barrel gets threaded.
    Then, the FSB is pressed back on, and the threads are accessible due to shortening of the sleeve.

    Leave a comment:


  • ar15barrels
    replied
    Originally posted by LynnJr
    How many posters here have actually tried one?
    I have threaded a bunch of barrels that had setscrew scrape marks on the muzzle from where a clamp-on muzzle brake slid off.
    Does that count?

    Leave a comment:


  • reverser
    replied
    Originally posted by LynnJr
    How many posters here have actually tried one?
    I tried one even though I knew better. It flew down range about ten feet. All of the older guys snickered. Fun times. I'd go threaded and just get a thread protector for those times you don't want to use one.

    Leave a comment:


  • Caribouriver
    replied
    I put one on a K31. Looked cool but moved POI a lot. Removed it.

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  • killshot44
    replied
    Stix, KenDog4570 threaded my Saiga for a PWS brake - didn't need to pull the front sight.

    Send him a PM?

    Leave a comment:


  • stix213
    replied
    I considered one for a Saiga, as to get it threaded would not only require threading the barrel but swapping the front sight out. When looking into them I changed my mind due only to the extra basically useless weight the clamp on system adds to make it secure. A lot of weight at the worst place on the rifle. I decided against it. (so I have not actually used one)

    Leave a comment:

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