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Clamp-on Muzzle Break
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BRAKE not "break"
very important distinction though both *words* 'sound' the same the action of your barrel "breaking" vs. braking you will never forget.Leave a comment:
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Only ones I would trust were the ones used on M-1 carbines-recoil check:
Also I've used ones made for the SKS, twist on variation AK-47 style:
My old neighbor put a muzzle break on one of his rifles(can't remember what
type) it was not aligned properly and did end up shooting it down range
Good luckLeave a comment:
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So it's $275 for a brake where you don't need to thread the barrel.
Or, you can get a Ross Schuler brake for $45 and spend $100 on threading and timing.
My simple math says that is $145 total.
I don't understand what you are getting for the extra $130 for the clamp-on brake.Leave a comment:
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I have the Witt Machine clamp on brake on my heavy barrel R700 308... works pretty goodLeave a comment:
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I prefer doing it correctly and having the barrel threaded. But if that not an option and you have to have a brake. The Witt brake works excellent! A big plus it's made for your barrel.
Take a measure at the muzzle, and 1 1/2" back from the muzzle. the clamp on Witt brake is then made for those measurements.
I have a Witt clamp brake on a 300WM. I am so impressed with that brake, on my new build I will probably get the threaded version and have my barrel threaded.
There is a correct way and a way to get by. I prefer the correct way, but you will get by no problems with a Clamp on by Witt Machining.Leave a comment:
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Kinda the reason I had to ask.
A clamp will constrict the bore on a barrel yet everyone here is shooting them downrange.Leave a comment:
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I will agree that a threaded barrel is the way to go but I must disagree when some say a clamp won't hold. I made my own clamp version of the JP recoil eliminator to see how good they worked. I tried it on at least 5 rifles and it never flew off. 100's of rounds and 100% performance. It worked but it was ugly.Leave a comment:
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There are a bunch of different variations in Saiga barrels/front sights.
Yours may have been different from the more common ones.
The common ones have a sleeve extending from the front sight that covers the section of barrel where threads would be cut.

Military barrels already HAVE threads under the sleeve.
Most saiga barrels are commercial spec though and those don't have threads.
The easiest way to thread them is to press the whole front sight off the barrel, press it on to an arbor and cut the sleeve shorter.
While the FSB is off the barrel, the barrel gets threaded.
Then, the FSB is pressed back on, and the threads are accessible due to shortening of the sleeve.Leave a comment:
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I put one on a K31. Looked cool but moved POI a lot. Removed it.Leave a comment:
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Stix, KenDog4570 threaded my Saiga for a PWS brake - didn't need to pull the front sight.
Send him a PM?Leave a comment:
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I considered one for a Saiga, as to get it threaded would not only require threading the barrel but swapping the front sight out. When looking into them I changed my mind due only to the extra basically useless weight the clamp on system adds to make it secure. A lot of weight at the worst place on the rifle. I decided against it. (so I have not actually used one)Leave a comment:
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