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Official Glock picture thread...
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LOL, I am going to have to borrow this pic and show my friends, they will get a kick out of it!!!Simplicity at it's best, complexity at it's worst. DUFComment
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Just saw this post and your glock is FANTASTIC!!! I hope to do this one day, and your run down the whole process was great, thanks!!!
Oh wow! many thanks for the compliment.
Yeah I did this myself. This was my first Duracoat experience and I was quite nervous about the outcome. I have used Krylon on my AR, but airbrushing is a whole different beast. I practiced on plastic storage container lids using Enamel model paint first, to get used to the air brush and see if my stenciling would be any good. It was good enough for me. So I moved on.
This took 8 days to complete - after some research on Duracoat I found out that it seems to be recommended to allow more cure time than what Lauer says the minimum is. So I did 1 color every 1 or 2 days. But supposedly if you wait more than 48 hours between coats you will need to re-sand the existing coat to rough it up, so I never waited longer than 2 days.
The colors I got are the Air Force ABU package (Tan, Light Green, Med. Green, Dark green). I have a sneaking suspicion that my colors may had been mixed wrong or aging or something, because the 3 greens are much darker than what I've seen others produce with the same kit.
I de-greased everything (fully stripped the glock) with Acetone and used a gun cleaning kit brush on every surface that was to be painted. Then I sanded everything down with 200-400 grit sandpaper and fine/medium steel wool. I kind of screwed up there and actually gouged up the frame in a few places, but I got the desired rough surface. After sanding I blew off all parts with highly pressured air going through a needle attachment. I also dunked everything in denatured alcohol, just in case. Denatured alcohol is residue free so it's good to use as a last chemical treatment right before painting ... or so I've read.
All my coats are applied twice. I only let it cure for about 10 min between coats because I used a hair drier to help it flash off.
Base coat - Tan (I'm linking the pics instead of displaying them so as not to spam up the thread too much)
Used Frogtape to mask off everything I wanted to stay tan.
Second Coat - ABU Light Green
Kept the first tape on and added more for all the areas I wanted to stay Light Green.
Third Coat - ABU Med. Green
Peeled everything away. Turns out the color difference between Light and Medium is totally negligible unless you stick your nose right up to the surface.
Originally I wanted to only do these 3 colors, but It didn't look good enough yet. So I decided to go with some Dark.
Taped it off keeping all areas that needed paint exposed.
Fourth Coat - Dark Green
Final product.
After 2 coats of Duracoat Matte Clear
If you pay close attention to the last image you'll notice a bunch of sputtering on the inside of the trigger guard and on parts of the grip. I believe this happened for two reasons:
1) I sprayed half of the coats in fog .. dense as freaking milk which probably caused the Duracoat to settle awkwardly and catch a bunch of water on the way to the surface.
2) I may have had a contaminated mixing container for the clear coat. Might have had some fuzz and dust get in over night.
Regardless, these little bumps actually rubbed with a finger and the actual coat remains non compromised so I lucked out.
Tomorrow I go shoot the crap out of it and allow all the natural contact and high impact areas to leave their chips and scrapes in the coats - that's when it will REALLY look good!
Cheers!Simplicity at it's best, complexity at it's worst. DUFComment
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Cool! Who did the work? What type of coating?Comment
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My Beaver-19.......


1911-The most beautiful delivery system for 230 Grains of lead.
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That thing is boss.


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