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  • #31
    himurax13
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2009
    • 3895

    Originally posted by ohhgourami
    Stock trigger is digusting. Upgraded parts immediately as I couldn't stand it.
    Agreed.

    OP, if you thought the stock trigger was great, wait till you mod it.

    I just picked up a Decocker frame and I spent an hour dry firing it then I switched back to my modded SP01 and I was utterly amazed at the difference.
    Originally posted by Bumslie
    HK - the best 600 dollar gun, 900 dollars can buy.
    Originally posted by Sleighter
    Getting legal advice from a gun salesman, is like getting medical advice from a janitor at a hospital. Both make about the same per hour and both prove that being around something all day doesn't make you an expert.

    Lifetime NRA member.

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    • #32
      cusco19
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2013
      • 1067

      himurax13: did you get the trigger kit from CGW to make it smooth or did you just polish up the sear and other parts?
      DIY: 1911 idiot scratch fix

      Comment

      • #33
        ohhgourami
        Member
        • Aug 2014
        • 138

        Pretty sure he did everything. I definitely did everything.

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        • #34
          cusco19
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2013
          • 1067

          are there any post on which side of the sear to polish and stuff like that?
          DIY: 1911 idiot scratch fix

          Comment

          • #35
            CityHunt3r
            Senior Member
            • Jun 2011
            • 933

            Wondering the same....
            sigpic

            Comment

            • #36
              Dattebayo
              Senior Member
              • Apr 2013
              • 2344

              Well you don't need to polish the sear or hammer if you gotten them from CGW. They come pretty perfect from them. You may polish certain parts of the trigger bow and the sear cage, but that is all that is really necessary. No level of polishing of the sear will get you to the performance level of the sear and hammer combo from CGW because they change the geometry on the sear and hammer. The breaking point is at a different angle which is why it is better than CZC sear and hammer combo

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              • #37
                cusco19
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2013
                • 1067

                so are you saying even if polishing the original sear and hammer, it wouldn't really help out too much in smoothing out the action?
                DIY: 1911 idiot scratch fix

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                • #38
                  metalhead
                  Member
                  • Apr 2013
                  • 444

                  I really like my CGW SP-01. The Aluminum grips are too thin and the G10 grips are not much thicker than the AL ones. Are the wood grips the thickest grips for CZ?

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                  • #39
                    cusco19
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2013
                    • 1067

                    Metalhead: with the aluminum grip, are there any tractions on the grip itself out just all metal?
                    DIY: 1911 idiot scratch fix

                    Comment

                    • #40
                      metalhead
                      Member
                      • Apr 2013
                      • 444

                      Originally posted by cusco19
                      Metalhead: with the aluminum grip, are there any tractions on the grip itself out just all metal?

                      The thin AL grips (like those on CZ shadow) are very smooth without any traction. I traded them for a pair of G10 grips which have more traction but are still not thick enough for me . I am used to the Nill wood grips on my Sig X5's.

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                      • #41
                        CAGLS
                        Veteran Member
                        • Feb 2012
                        • 3700

                        Check the two links in my signature.
                        Originally posted by cusco19
                        are there any post on which side of the sear to polish and stuff like that?

                        Comment

                        • #42
                          zfields
                          CGN Contributor
                          • Aug 2010
                          • 13658

                          Originally posted by cusco19
                          are there any post on which side of the sear to polish and stuff like that?
                          The sear you want to leave some grit to. Polishing *excessively*,which most people seem to do, it without shortening gives it a spongy, unpredictable brake.

                          Learned that the hard way.
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                          • #43
                            Dattebayo
                            Senior Member
                            • Apr 2013
                            • 2344

                            Originally posted by cusco19
                            so are you saying even if polishing the original sear and hammer, it wouldn't really help out too much in smoothing out the action?
                            Pretty much as it is the inherent change in geometry of the hammer contacting the sear that gives a better break.

                            Comment

                            • #44
                              cusco19
                              Senior Member
                              • Dec 2013
                              • 1067

                              ok, then i'll just leave the sear as is and save up for the hammer & trigger kit later. in the meantime, will just check out the areas to polish up to smooth out the action.
                              DIY: 1911 idiot scratch fix

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