resolved

[elsolo]

How big of a drill but did you use?
Did you use a hand drill, or lock it in a vise and use a drill press?

It looks like somebody with shaky hands used a 1/4" drill bit on an 8-32 screw.
If you haven't ever drilled or extracted a screw, starting with a tiny one in soft material is not a good way to learn.

[ParanoidCivilian]

I installed a Taylor Slug Plug in my G17, and the allen screw stripped. I've went through several drill bits including the cobalt/carbide ones that I forked up for-- still can't drill through it... even bought a left-hand drill bit set (didn't even get to use that).

I don't know what to do at this point. Thinking about just cutting the frame to remove the plug, but is is possible to fill the gap with something to repair? Or should I just fork up some cash to a gunsmith?

Would really appreciate any suggestions or tips to fix this. Thanks in advance.

LOL

[LightsOut!]

Thanks all

How big of a drill but did you use?
Did you use a hand drill, or lock it in a vise and use a drill press?

It looks like somebody with shaky hands used a 1/4" drill bit on an 8-32 screw.
If you haven't ever drilled or extracted a screw, starting with a tiny one in soft material is not a good way to learn.

It was small- I forgot the size. I used a hand air drill in a vice.

Trust me, the material wasn't soft. As I mentioned, I've tried everything.

I'll call up my gunsmith tomorrow to see what he says.

[G17GUY]

Thanks all


I'll call up my gunsmith tomorrow to see what he says.

[cc426]

You can try to jb weld a wrench to the screw and then extract after it sets.

[elsolo]

Thanks all



It was small- I forgot the size. I used a hand air drill in a vice.

Trust me, the material wasn't soft. As I mentioned, I've tried everything.

I'll call up my gunsmith tomorrow to see what he says.

The Glock frame is soft, not the screw, that should be hardened steel.
When drilling out a socket head screw, start with a drill bit just big enough to round out the allen key hex. Then the next size up (in a 115 piece index, not by 1/16's). You shouldn't ever get to a drill bit as big in diameter as the threaded shank of the screw. Forget screw extractors for anything smaller than 1/4". You drill the center out of the screw then pick or roll the remaining threads out of the hole.

Looking at the area of Glock frame that saw the 115* point of that drill bit chattering around, your bit was too big.

It takes practice to get the feel for it. I used to have to extract broken 2-56 screws from production tooling that cost more than I made in a month. Worst case you have it EDM "machined" out of there.

[SILENT GUNMAN]

What about cutting the bottom of the plug off with a grinder then drilling up from the bottom until you eat up the threads the screw goes into? Once half of the threads are gone the screw should come out easy. If you take it slow and keep it as cool as possible there shouldn't be any more damage done to your gun.

[LightsOut!]

The Glock frame is soft, not the screw, that should be hardened steel.
When drilling out a socket head screw, start with a drill bit just big enough to round out the allen key hex. Then the next size up (in a 115 piece index, not by 1/16's). You shouldn't ever get to a drill bit as big in diameter as the threaded shank of the screw. Forget screw extractors for anything smaller than 1/4". You drill the center out of the screw then pick or roll the remaining threads out of the hole.

Looking at the area of Glock frame that saw the 115* point of that drill bit chattering around, your bit was too big.

It takes practice to get the feel for it. I used to have to extract broken 2-56 screws from production tooling that cost more than I made in a month. Worst case you have it EDM "machined" out of there.

Yes, at first I used a bit closed to the size of the screw, but after that I used several small bits, and couldn't even drill through the screw. Broke a few of them. I think instead of spending more money on bits, liquids, etc. I think I'll give my gunsmith a call and see what he says. Appreciate your help!

I don't want to, but worst-case would be to just drill or cut below the hole to free the plug and just repair the frame.

[kellyhachihachi]

So did your gunsmith get it out? haha

[LightsOut!]

Haven't had the chance to call him... probably tomorrow. Amazon was awesome as usual and gave me a refund for the bit set that I got, so I don't feel as ****ty.

This whole thing with this plug in particular is cursed from the beginning... thanks to Midway's crappy customer service, plus they screwed up my order and had me ship this plug back along with a form, had to wait for them to send me the correct one, and now this... Thankfully I didn't have this problem with the plug for my G23.

[kellyhachihachi]

Its like the universe was telling you dont do it all along :P haha

[LightsOut!]

Its like the universe was telling you dont do it all along :P haha

Tell me about it!

[saki302]

Did this get fixed?

Another technique which has saved me before (ground allen bolts from a motorcycle track day lowside) is to use an impact screwdriver and torx bits.

I don't know if the Glock frame will have too much flex for this (support from inside?), but what worked for my bike was to use an impact screwdriver, and a torx bit which was just a little too big to fit into the allen bolt head (ground down on my bike).

I first hammered in the torx bit, then I whacked the impact screwdriver, which spun off the screw, now locked to the bolt.

Worked like a charm for me, more than once.

-Dave

[ldsnet]

dremel with diamond bit and cut new spades in cap screw for a screw driver

If that does not work, diamond grind the head off the shank, then grind the shank down until it can be removed.

The Glock frame is very soft and will melt (people stiple the frame with a small soldering iron) so braising on an extension is out of the question. JB weld an extension into the cap screw?

[LightsOut!]

dremel with diamond bit and cut new spades in cap screw for a screw driver

If that does not work, diamond grind the head off the shank, then grind the shank down until it can be removed.

The Glock frame is very soft and will melt (people stiple the frame with a small soldering iron) so braising on an extension is out of the question. JB weld an extension into the cap screw?

I did that initially and the damn screw spade ripped. Yet I can't even drill into the stupid screw... so retarded. I'm meeting up with gunsmith tonight, thanks guys.