CZ trigger work

[paul0660]

You didnt take my post in context. If you are going to quote it at least respond to the full post.

You are right. Sorry.

[zfields]

You are right. Sorry.

I do fully agree with you though. Thats why I still have a FPB in both my HD guns.


Plus the fact I dont feel like shooting limited, so the FPB is staying either way

[BAGunner]

Pull slightly to release hammer, back off trigger, decock.

The FPB moves back into position, making so if the hammer strikes the FB, it will still be blocked.

Let me get this correct:
For a safety model laying on the table with a round in the chamber and hammer cocked and locked, I need to hold the hammer with my thumb, press the trigger to pass the pre-travel point, then back off trigger, then release hammer? When do I disengage the safety?

Sorry for asking stupid questions, I have only one decock model, I'm curious how the safety one decocks.

[zfields]

Let me get this correct:
For a safety model laying on the table with a round in the chamber and hammer cocked and locked, I need to hold the hammer with my thumb, press the trigger to pass the pre-travel point, then back off trigger, then release hammer? When do I disengage the safety?

Sorry for asking stupid questions, I have only one decock model, I'm curious how the safety one decocks.

Safety off first.

Sent from my Incredible 2 using Tapatalk

[paul0660]

I stick my left thumb between the slide and hammer while decocking, and withdraw the thumb after the hammer is released. If my left hand were not available, I would run around SA with safety on instead of trying to bring the hammer down with my right thumb.

[J.D.Allen]

Unless you've had work done on the sear or hammer, IMHO the sear/hammer interface on these guns is pretty solid. That's why there's camming before the trigger breaks. AFAIK the FPB is primarily to prevent discharge in case the weapon is dropped correct? I doubt dropping one of these pistols on the floor even with the safety off and no FPB installed would cause it to fire.

Just thinkin out loud...

[zfields]

Unless you've had work done on the sear or hammer, IMHO the sear/hammer interface on these guns is pretty solid. That's why there's camming before the trigger breaks. AFAIK the FPB is primarily to prevent discharge in case the weapon is dropped correct? I doubt dropping one of these pistols on the floor even with the safety off and no FPB installed would cause it to fire.

Just thinkin out loud...

Also if anything were to strike the firing pin while its cocked and locked. Would have to be a pretty solid hit though.

[21SF]

i wish these fangled CZ's came in .45

[zfields]

They do. CZ 97

[drunktank]

Sorry to threadjack, but does tha SA model have an overall shorter length as far as reaching the trigger? I'm in the market for a used 75 but like the longer pull. Thanks and good luck with your trigger.

[zfields]

Sorry to threadjack, but does tha SA model have an overall shorter length as far as reaching the trigger? I'm in the market for a used 75 but like the longer pull. Thanks and good luck with your trigger.

Compared to the DA pull of a CZ 75B/Sp01/BD, Yes. But it is the same ( or at least close, the trigger shapes are different ) as the SA mode.

[schmeky]

ruchik,

The way a CZ is designed internally, the trigger (and trigger bar) has to move "X" amount to fully raise the firing pin block. CZ wisely decided to have this event as a primary precursor prior to the sear releasing.

Other makers have their FP block not fully raised, relying on the sear break to quickly raise the block the final amount to allow the FP's full travel.

The ONLY way you can have the best of both worlds would be to modify the lifter arm in the sear cage that raises the FP block. Adding metal to the top of the lifter arm will allow you to "re-time" the action, thus moving the static SA trigger rearward, and still have the FP block fully raised before sear let-off.

This may sound difficult, but in actual application, it's not that difficult to accomplish.

[ruchik]

Hmmm. Why can't I put a set screw into the top of the trigger area where the pretravel adjustment screw would be, which would let the trigger only come just far enough forward to reset? That's right about where I would want the SA trigger set position.Double action would be disabled, but that's fine by me.

[zfields]

Hmmm. Why can't I put a set screw into the top of the trigger area where the pretravel adjustment screw would be, which would let the trigger only come just far enough forward to reset? That's right about where I would want the SA trigger set position.Double action would be disabled, but that's fine by me.

that sounds like you would be staging the trigger to basically always have the fpb disengaged, correct?

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[ruchik]

Is that what is happening? There would still be some pretravel in the trigger. I took a look inside my frame to see what the FPB was doing when I pulled the trigger. The FPB does not cam upwards until a few millimeters before the trigger bar contacts the sear; there's some resistance as the FPB is lifted out of the way, then sear contact. There's a ton of dead/free play before that point, which is what I am proposing to eliminate by putting a set screw into the trigger. The SA trigger I tried takes all the dead play out, but the trigger is set right where the stock trigger would be in SA anyway. At least with the stock trigger modified, I could move it back further than with the SA trigger. Does this make sense? It's kind of hard to explain