So my cousin and I are headed to Front Sight to take the 4-Day Defense Handgun Course. It is my Christmas present to him.
He decided he wants to buy a handgun rather than rent one. This will be his first handgun, and he is very excited and asked for my advice.
So I put together a buying guide for him, based on what I consider to be the most important aspect of a handgun, the trigger pull.
Bear in mind, he needs a gun that will help him do well during this course. I took it once before with a Beretta 96F and had a really hard time fighting with the DA/SA trigger because it could not be carried cocked and locked. The first hard trigger pull would result in a high shot, and the second light trigger pull would result in a low shot (or vice versa it was a long time ago). Then you would either do a headshot which would be fine, or decock the gun by engaging the safety, holster it and start the process all over. You have do it all in seconds. Getting a consistant group was a nightmare. I am trying to help him avoid that pain.
So here is my guide...maybe it will help you figure out how to buy the best performing handgun for you?
PRINT THIS OUT AND TAKE IT WITH YOU TO THE GUN STORE
Guns that have easy to master triggers.
The most important part about a handgun is the trigger. If it is hard to master, you will shoot badly. There are a lot of options. Try each of them out side by side if you can and decide which you like best.
GROUP A: SAME TRIGGER PULL EACH TIME
The following guns have the same “medium” trigger pull every time. Double check this yourself before buying them, though. Provided they don’t have a manual safety you have to turn off, having the same trigger pull each and every time is a major plus. It will be easy to master and you will do well.
- Glock (also has very short reset)
- Walther P99 QA (only the Quick Action Model, avoid the others)
- Smith and Wesson M&P (not sure all models do, but the one that does is very nice)
- H&K USP with LEM trigger pack (never tried the reset, so check it yourself)
- Springfield XD (very long trigger reset is the downside)
- Sig Arms P250 (extremely long trigger rest is the downside)
HOW TO TEST THE TRIGGER TO SEE WHICH IS BEST OF THE ABOVE
- Do not rack the slide.
- Pull the trigger and hold it to rear? How light and smooth was the pull?
- Slowly release the trigger until it clicks. How short was the distance it took to reset?
- Pull the trigger again? Was it the same as the first pull? If so that is good.
GROUP B: CAN BE CARRIED COCKED AND LOCKED
Another option is to have a gun that can be carried cocked and locked. You holster the weapon with the hammer cocked to the rear, and the safety engaged. The advantage is the trigger pull is light as hell. The disadvantage is you have to disengage a manual safety before you can shoot. It is a tossup whether this is best, or having a GLOCK LIKE trigger is best.
- HK USP v1 Trigger (v2 might work the same I don’t know)
- HK P30 v1 Trigger (v2 might work the same I don’t know)
- 1911 Loaded or higher (also available in 9mm)
- Springfield 1911 EMP (specifically designed for 9mm or 40S&W in a MICRO frame)
HOW TO TEST TO SEE IF A GUN CAN BE CARRIED COCKED AND LOCKED
- Rack the slide
- Engage the safety. Does the hammer stay cocked to the rear? If so good.
- Release the safety.
- Pull the trigger. How light was it? Lighter is better.
BEST OF THE BEST
Everyone is different. But I find the following handguns to be equally good options.
- Glock (same trigger pull option)
- H&K USP v1 (cocked and locked option)
- Walther P99 QA (same trigger pull option – but only the QA model)
- H&K USP LEM (same trigger pull option)
- 1911 (cocked and locked option)
Then again a lot of the options I mentioned about might be better for you. You don’t know for certain until you play with them side by side, testing and comparing the triggers yourself.
He decided he wants to buy a handgun rather than rent one. This will be his first handgun, and he is very excited and asked for my advice.
So I put together a buying guide for him, based on what I consider to be the most important aspect of a handgun, the trigger pull.
Bear in mind, he needs a gun that will help him do well during this course. I took it once before with a Beretta 96F and had a really hard time fighting with the DA/SA trigger because it could not be carried cocked and locked. The first hard trigger pull would result in a high shot, and the second light trigger pull would result in a low shot (or vice versa it was a long time ago). Then you would either do a headshot which would be fine, or decock the gun by engaging the safety, holster it and start the process all over. You have do it all in seconds. Getting a consistant group was a nightmare. I am trying to help him avoid that pain.
So here is my guide...maybe it will help you figure out how to buy the best performing handgun for you?
PRINT THIS OUT AND TAKE IT WITH YOU TO THE GUN STORE
Guns that have easy to master triggers.
The most important part about a handgun is the trigger. If it is hard to master, you will shoot badly. There are a lot of options. Try each of them out side by side if you can and decide which you like best.
GROUP A: SAME TRIGGER PULL EACH TIME
The following guns have the same “medium” trigger pull every time. Double check this yourself before buying them, though. Provided they don’t have a manual safety you have to turn off, having the same trigger pull each and every time is a major plus. It will be easy to master and you will do well.
- Glock (also has very short reset)
- Walther P99 QA (only the Quick Action Model, avoid the others)
- Smith and Wesson M&P (not sure all models do, but the one that does is very nice)
- H&K USP with LEM trigger pack (never tried the reset, so check it yourself)
- Springfield XD (very long trigger reset is the downside)
- Sig Arms P250 (extremely long trigger rest is the downside)
HOW TO TEST THE TRIGGER TO SEE WHICH IS BEST OF THE ABOVE
- Do not rack the slide.
- Pull the trigger and hold it to rear? How light and smooth was the pull?
- Slowly release the trigger until it clicks. How short was the distance it took to reset?
- Pull the trigger again? Was it the same as the first pull? If so that is good.
GROUP B: CAN BE CARRIED COCKED AND LOCKED
Another option is to have a gun that can be carried cocked and locked. You holster the weapon with the hammer cocked to the rear, and the safety engaged. The advantage is the trigger pull is light as hell. The disadvantage is you have to disengage a manual safety before you can shoot. It is a tossup whether this is best, or having a GLOCK LIKE trigger is best.
- HK USP v1 Trigger (v2 might work the same I don’t know)
- HK P30 v1 Trigger (v2 might work the same I don’t know)
- 1911 Loaded or higher (also available in 9mm)
- Springfield 1911 EMP (specifically designed for 9mm or 40S&W in a MICRO frame)
HOW TO TEST TO SEE IF A GUN CAN BE CARRIED COCKED AND LOCKED
- Rack the slide
- Engage the safety. Does the hammer stay cocked to the rear? If so good.
- Release the safety.
- Pull the trigger. How light was it? Lighter is better.
BEST OF THE BEST
Everyone is different. But I find the following handguns to be equally good options.
- Glock (same trigger pull option)
- H&K USP v1 (cocked and locked option)
- Walther P99 QA (same trigger pull option – but only the QA model)
- H&K USP LEM (same trigger pull option)
- 1911 (cocked and locked option)
Then again a lot of the options I mentioned about might be better for you. You don’t know for certain until you play with them side by side, testing and comparing the triggers yourself.

. Let him 'make do'...if he's old enough to train, he's old enough to pick his own gun
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